11066101690 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Easy to follow videos on your site made this repair a breeze. I ended up having to replace the high temp cutoff as well but for 60 bux my dryer works like new. The repair man wanted $100 just to come look at it. Could not have done of without the easy to follow video.

ordered the part recived the parts and installed the part that easy. saved us lots of money did not have to buy a new dryer.

Removed the back panel with a 1/4" nut driver on a Ryobi impact driver. Used multimeter to check the thermal switches and the heating element. The element was broken. Went to the PartSelect web site and quickly found the part by using the model number and verified the right part by comparing the photos to the actual part. Placed an on-line order at approximately 1:00 pm and the part arrived at 2:00 pm the next day. Cleaned out the dryer vent and it works better than it has in a long time. Great web site and delivery from PartSelect and didn't have to run around town looking for the part.

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

The video you had of my dryer was different then my dryer and the pulley was in the middle of the bottom and the motor and fan were in front of it. I had to replace the belt without being able to see what I was doing. I couldn't get it at first then realized there was tension on the pulley wheel and had to pull it towards the other wheel in order to get the belt on there. Once I pulled the wheel it went on really easy. My first time working on a dryer but I knew I could do it myself.

instructions were clear and repair was easy

Well, to Figure the issue I took the entire thing apart. Actually a lot more than needed. I found the torn belt and ordered it. I did not realize I may need a new belt tensioner which is sold with a wheel for the belt to wrap around and be tensioned by. Actually the original just utilized a rubber c or u shaped design(no wheel) for the belt to slide over. Anyways, instead of ordering and waiting for a new wheeled belt tensioner, I installed new belt with all original parts and working fine. I did oil up the drum rollers to reduce noise. And since I took the whole thing apart I cleaned the lint from every place it could hide. Ps a coke can is said to be helpful to hold the drum up while installing the belt but I found a jug of laundry detergent did better. Totally easy project for someone with no appliance repair history

The broken belt was found when I opened the dryer. The part number was on the belt and a quick online search led me to PartSelect. The part was available, delivered in less than 2 days and there was an online video showing the entire repair in detail.

My ground wire in my electrical box was not connected.

I watched the video on this site and it went exactly as described, fixed it and it sounds like a new dryer. Was going to junk it, glad I didn't!

PROBLEM: Intermittently, the dryer would not advance on the Auto Dry setting and would stay at max heat continuously, even after 2.5 hours with the clothes dry and very warm. At first, I replaced the CYCLING THERMOSTAT, which DID NOT correct this issue. Then I also found the 60 Minute Timed dry setting would work fine until the end of the cycle and the dryer would stop like it should. Then, I checked back 10-15 minutes later and found the timer had advanced into Fluff Dry Timed cycle with heater on full, but the dryer not moving air. This caused the Thermo-Cut switch (fuse) off to open and the Heater Element would not put out enough heat to dry the clothes. TROUBLESHOOTING: 1- UNPLUG the dryer for all troubleshooting and set the DVM for OHMS ( or use ohm-meter). 2- Both the Cycling Thermostat and High Limit Thermostat checked good at 0 ohms (dryer unplugged). The entire Thermo Cut-off/Thermostat circuit can be checked at the Timer (VERIFY proper wire color with dryer schematic in top console), which also verifies the wires are good and should be 0 ohms without the Heater Element in the circuit. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and Orange wires at the Timer. 3- If the Heater Element is in the circuit (see schematic for test points), look for between 8-12 ohms for a good Heater Element. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and White/Black wires at the Timer or across the Heater Element connection. SOLUTION: The Heater Element checked out good at 10 ohms. When the Heater Element was physically removed from the dryer one of the PORCELAIN MOUNTS was BUSTED, which caused the heater element coil to intermittently come in contact with the dryer housing while running/drying clothes, which caused the Timer to not advance on Auto Dry when the Cycling Thermostat Opened and malfunction for the Timed Dry settings. To physically check the Heater Element, just remove the 2 screws and the wires to the High Limit Thermostat can stay hooked up. The Thermo-Cut off kit is easy to install and there is a installation video if there are questions. Just be careful to NOT cut the Heater Element connector on the Jumper wire kit. The spade connector for the heater element is wider than the other side that is cut off for the dual spade connector. The Heater Element is easy to replace as well. If the Thermo-Cutoff Kit is being installed, the new High Limit Thermostat can be mounted to the new Heater Element before it is mounted to the dryer housing, which makes it easier to screw in the self-tapping screws. After this repair was completed, dryer has functioned perfectly after many loads of clothes using all dryer settings.

I was pretty sure it was the heating element. I watched two different Youtube videos. Once I cleaned up all of the trash and coins behind the dryer, it was just a matter of removing the screws from the back. I disconnected the wires, replaced the element, and reconnected everything and replaced all of the screws. It works perfectly again!

I won't tell you how we did it, but I'll tell you the right way. Unplug. Remove the exhaust tubing attached to back of dryer. Pry the top up from the front and lean it against the wall. Un plug the wires attached to the front panel (remember where they go) Remove screws at top sides of front panel. "lift up" and remove. Close top. Lay machine on its back. We used a couple of 2x4's to lay it on so as not to crush the vest collar. Clean it out, including lint filter. The new belt wraps around the drum, you will see the channel about midway on drum. Feel behind the motor on the lower right side. There is a shaft with a channel for the belt. Immediately next to that is another pulley type arm with another channel for the belt. This arm moves stiffly and puts tension on the belt when installed correctly. Look at the diagram included with the new belt which shows the path of the belt. Wrap the belt, ridges against the drum and then around the motor shaft. At this point you have to physically pull the last arm out to allow the belt to wrap around the channel provided. If the belt is not twisted , the job is done. Turn the drum with your hands to make sure it is turning properly. Replace the front panel, plug in the electricals, replace the screws making sure the drum is properly centered. Stand up the dryer. Plug in and turn on dryer to make sure everything is right. Replace the exhaust tubing and set into place. Sounds like a lot of steps but I have described the whole process for you beginners. The rest of you will know already. Good Luck . Oh by the way we are 69 and 71. If we can do it, so can you

Slid the dryer away from the wall and removed the screws from the top back panel. I then removed the screws that held the top section in place. Two more screws held the two full length metal together. After removing these the push to start switch is easy to remove. Disconnect the two electrical wires. With a screw driver lift the tab on the switch and twist the part 45 degrees and remove. Re-assemble in the reverse order.

Pulled the old one out, took the duck tape off (haha) and snapped, pushed the new one on. Piece of cake. I then noticed that this is a movable door ,and ther was the same part on the other side, oh well now I still have a spair.