11062902100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Took back cover off
Disconnected part
Put new one in
Reconnected wires
Put back cover on

To verify that this was the needed part, I used a digital multimeter to confirm there was no continuity.

We took the screws off of the back, took out the thermal fuse and replaced it with the new one.
We watched a video of how to do it which made it so easy.
Works great!

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

I took the dryer apart by visually looking at it and removing screws, etc. until I had the top off and the front off. I took the dryer apart so I could get the part out and use it visually ascertain I was ordering the same part.

I bought the replacement part and only then did I have the instructions to take the dryer apart. It was further apart than the instructions said. I had to take the front off to retrieve the broken part which had fallen inside the front of the dryer.

I put the front back on the dryer and installed the new part, which, fortunately could only be installed one way. Once I had the two screws tightened into the part, the remainder was to simply follow the instructions that came from your web site and put the link filter and top of the dryer back on. Of course, I plugged in the dryer and checked to see that it ran before completing this.

I am amazed that I was able to find this part for a 30 year old dryer. The part hasn't changed at all. I guess, if you have a good part, there's no need to modify it.

The dryer stopped heating. Took the front lower panel off of the dryer and obtained the troubleshooting instructions stored there. Used an ohmmeter (most volt meters also have an ohmmeter) and tested all the electrical components one by one (thermostat, thermal fuse, heater coil - following the troubleshooting instructions provided with the dryer) and found that I didn't have any resistance across my heater element. Removed it and sure enough there was a break in the heater coil. Ordered a new heater element from PartSelect for less than $50 and replaced it myself. Saved myself a good bit of money repairing my dryer myself. It was very straight forward and easy. If you can follow easy to read instructions you can do it.

I found a video tutorial that explained the three things that are usually the problem when a dryer stops working. This showed how simple the task is. I used a multimeter to check the switch, to make certain that this was the part that needed replacement. This was part of the tutorial, as well. I ordered from PartSelect because it was recommended to me by an application that I use to find places where items are less expensive. The correct part arrived in a few days and it worked fine. I'm not a handyman by any means, but the tutorial showed exactly what needed to be done. It appeared simple and it was.

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

First I did a search on dryer repair. Found a website that described easy things to check with an ohm-meter. I then performed the continuity checks on the items and found the high-limit one was open, in other words, no good. It works similar to a fuse. All this was done after removing the back panel, just a few screws. The reason it exceeded the high limit, possibly because I never opened the back up and cleaned it. Found out it should be done every couple years. My vent line had a hole in it and was letting lint get drawn into the heating element, could have been a fire.

Extremely easy repair! Unplug the dryer. Remove the lint trap screen. Take the two screws out of the lint trap chute, pry up the top of the dryer, insert wood or have someone hold top up, remove two screws holding the switch in place while holding the switch so the old spring doesn't fall. Remove old spring and replace with new one. Re-attach switch to dryer with two screws. Plug in and test run. Lower top and push firmly to engages clips. Re-install two scres in lint trap chute followed by the lint trap screen and you are finished!

Repair took about five minutes and saved approximately $70!

Took of the back cover, and removed the vent connecting the blower motor to the drum. It was completly full of lint, so cleaned it out completly, and tried the dryer again. The heater element was still cutting off early, and the clothes were not getting very warm, but better than before. Decided to change the thermal cut-off switches. Ordered the parts on Sun, they came in on Tuesday. Dryer was up and running Tuesday night. Just 2 screws per switch, took less than 1/2 hour. The dryer now runs like brand new, and my wife was ready to fork over $800 for a new one!

My Whirlpool dryer had no heat. I removed the back panel and within minutes diagnosed the problem to a blown thermal cut-off fuse. I ordered a thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and had the parts at 7:30am Wednesday morning. Total time for diagnosing and repair was no more than 15 minutes. PartSelect saved me a ton of money and aggravation!!! AWESOME!!!!

Gary

Checked online for symptoms.
Pulled panel from front of unit (no tools required)
Vacuumed all lint from unit to see if that was a problem.
Removed the exhaust port which comes off with 3 hex head screws.

Based on the symptoms, I pulled the wires off the thermal fuse and did a continuity check on it. There was no continuity, so I knew I needed that part. Since a common reason for that to fail is the cycling thermostat allows the dryer to get too hot, I replaced that thermostat as well, just to be safe.

Due to closeness to the drum, I had to use a socket to remove the hex head screws on the two electronic parts.

Total time was about 40 mins. to diagnose and 20 mins. to replace the parts and verify correct operation.

Removed back panel of the dryer-reached my hand to the back of the motor shaft, put 7/16 wrench on it to hold the shaft while I removed the broken pulley with pliers. Very easy fix-the tech on Utube took the entire dryer apart totally unnecessary. If that is what the factory tells its tech"s to do its no wonder why the labor charge would be thru the roof.

Started at the top by laying back the control panel, then I removed the top panel, then the front panel, next the drum and the broken belt. before I put it back together in reverse order, I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and the exhaust vent

Removed top and back covers. Placed new pulley and retaining clip in place. I had to remove a couple of drum supports to put belt on. Probably didn't have to remove top.