11062512102 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged the dryer from the electric outlet; removed the screws from the back panel, removed screws from the unit and pulled down and outward to release the unit. Removed the wires and attached to the new unit. Plugged the dryer in to see if the unit worked. It worked, so I unplugged the electrical cord, replaced the back panel and screwed in the screws.

Removed rear panel and replaced sensor. Sad thing is this was not the problem.It was the coil valves! They are a $20 part together, and I wish I would have replaced them first! There is two of them that are on the main valve for the gas! Remove the front cover of machine. Make sure the gas is off , remove the bracket holding the valves in and this it! Quick simply repair that is where I should have started!

Removed rear panel screws carefully removed panel with out disconnecting wire harness located thermal fuse removed 2 screws removed the 2 wires with needle nose pliers put new thermal fuse in connected the 2 wires carefully put panel back on and tightened screws turned on power and start got heat problem fixed

After checking the PartsSelect website, I found that the most likely cause for my no heat problem was the Thermal Fuse and the Cycling Thermostat. I ordered both since they are located next to each other on the dryer. I followed the instructions in the video, first removing the dryer back. Next I located and removed both parts. I also did a cleaning of the dryer compartment since the back was already removed. Installed the 2 parts according the the video and re-installed the dryer back. It is now running like new. Great website, excellent video instructions saving me $600 to replace a perfectly good working appliance.

I diagnosed the problem using the web page. It said that 60% of the people with my problem bought the Thermal Fuse. I unplugged the dryer AND cut the power at the fuse box. I used a screwdriver to remove the vent hose, a nutdriver to remove the back of the machine. The thermal fuse was right there. Removed the old one with a screwdriver, unplugged the wires from the old one and snapped on new one, and screwed it back in. Re-installed the back of the dryer and the vent hose and Whoila! It works like a champ.

I watched the video and did the repair myself. My husband, who works in maintenance, was IMPRESSED! Yay! Thank You!!!! Love you guys! I am forwarding your website to my children!

Thermal Cut-Off Kit (279816) was the wrong part for our Whirlpool Dryer Model. The thermal cut-off replacement part did not match the incumbent part. Before ordering this kit, I would recommend homeowners remove the back of the dryer and verifying this kit would work on their dryer. In our situation, it was a fuse that had to be replaced. Although your kit did not help or address my problem, I found the buying experience and the DIY reassurance to be positive. Hopefully the refund process will be equally positive. Thank you.

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

I cleaned out the vent inside and out. I removed the hose and checked the heat output, there was none. I ordered the Heating element, and the fuse as it was cheap enough not to have to go in a second time. I used a nut driver to remove screws, installed new part. The hardest was removing a small part from the old element that is needed to be added to the new Element. I switched on dryer to check for heat then replace back panel. I don think it has ever worked this well. I was bought 5 years ago from an unused model home.

used continuity tester on all thermostats and heater element and determined which needed replacement. Placed order and parts arrived 2 days later. Followed instructions in help videos.

Turned off power and pulled power plug from the wall. Removed the two screws at the lint screen. Raised the top to by depressing the top spring clips. Removed the two 5/16" screws from front top. Removed wiring clips from front panel. Set the front aside while I removed the two broken panel clips. Installed the two new panel clips. reinstalled the front panel by placing the front panel above the sides. Opened the front panel door and supported the drum while allowing the front panel to slide down onto the new front panel clips. Reinstalled the wiring clip. reinstalled the two 5/16 screws. Turned the drum to ensure that the felt seals and drive belt weere installed properly. Lowered the top and reinstalled the two screws at lint screen. Reinstalled power plug and turned on power. No rattles or squeeks!!!

Removed front and back covers on dryer, screws on top and down one side to spread cabinet to remove drum,removed blower cover to get access to shaft nut on that side. The other is accessible. I found that both shafts can bethe longer of the two that were sent. The shorter shaft is too short and needed to be modified to let the roller come outward to lay in the grove in the drum. I will get a longer shaft and replace it.

Thermal Fuse & Cycling Thermostat put it in like 321 was done.

I first came to the internet to resolve what was wrong. After finding the video I thought was correct I started. I used my volt/ohm meter to check the thermal fuse as instructed on the video and that was the problem. I ordered the new thermal fuse from PartSelect late in the day and it was in my hands the next evening. With in 20 minutes the dryer was doing what it was suppose to do. The hardest part was getting the back cover of the crier off and that wasn't to bad.

first I took a flat head screw driver to pop the top of the dryer open, and then removed the screws from the lint tray. Next I lifted the lip back making sure it was supported by the wall behind. Third I removed the front of the unit by removing the bolts attached on both ends of the top of the unit. I then opened the door and removed the screws on the right top side of the lining of the door to the switch. Then I carefully held onto the tub while lifting the front face of the unit to remove the face of the dryer. After carefully removing the face I released the tub and set it aside. Then I picked up the tension pulley set it back in its slot followed by placing the belt rib side down around the tub. Next step was to place the tub back in the unit making sure the felt was in place and then I ran the belt back through the tension pulley applying tension in order to get the belt back onto the motor making sure the ribs of the belt aligned up with the ribs on the motors belt drive wheel. After completing that I then grabbed the front panel of the dryer unit and gently replaced the panel making sure that the slots and hooks lined up while placing the tub back in alignment of front panel. Once that was complete I replaced the screws in the door switch followed by replacing the bolts in the inside of the top comer of the front panel till hand tight. Last but not least I slid the lint tray back in place in order to make sure screws did not fall in to the hole the lint tray occupies. After replacing the screws I then plugged in the dryer gave the tub a few spins with my hand to make sure it was in place correctly I gave it a test drive by leaving the door open and pressing the door switch shutting off the light in the unit so it since the door was shut and turn the unit on for a cycle for at least one minute to see if the tub rolled freely on its own. All was good and only took 12 minutes to change and replace part. Easley can be done by any DIY first timers. Me I work with all kinds of units but the older units are easy and no need for a tech I promise.