11062042100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

When I ordered the part, I viewed the installation video. That was a key step for me. It told me how to identify the correct part (there are multiple latch pieces in the repair kit, and one of them matches the type of door for the dryer), and how to disassemble the door to get the part installed. When the part came and I installed it, it turned out that I could snap the part in by hand, with no tools. It took about 5 seconds to try it, and it worked.

The dryer just stopped after a new load of clothes was put in. It appeared to be a power problem as there were not warnings, it just stopped. After checking the power, I suspected it was an electrical interlock problem. After nosing around, I traced the power to the dryer door interlock. Sure enough the switch was fine, but the mechanical lever was worn away. After Googling around for a replacement I found PartSelect.Com. Found the part, ordered it, and I am back in business. My wife is not happy though, as she wanted a new dryer:)

removed the heater element housing from the dryer. then on a table removed and replaced the thermal cut-off kit

Took bottom accesses panel off dryer (two screws). To the right was heating element housing. Three screws to remove inside. One at the bottom of houseing bracket (holds up heating element housing) which connects to dryer cabinet floor. One at top of bracket (connects to bottom of heating element housing). One on the left side where the elements wires connect (screw goes through housing then through element side arm). Once the three screws are removed disconnect wires and pull element stright towards you. Once everything was diasembled I took shopvac in side machine and swept it all out. Just reassble the same way you took apart.

I losened the two screws under the flap covering the filter or lint screen. With the screws removed the entire top of the dryer slides forward and hinges up allowing access to the door switch. The door switch is removed by taking two screws out with access obtained by opening the dryer door. Replacing the bracket/switch was easy and a simple reverse of the disassembly put the dryer back together. I would highly recommend doing this repair yourself.

The Door Swith Acuator Spring was broken. I unplugged the dryer. Removed the two screws on the top control panel. Lifted the top of the dryer and propped it up. Then removed the two wires attached to the door switch (remember to label them with tape-one without and one with tape). Then as suggested by a previous "repairman" loosen the two screws that hold the switch just enough to remove the actuator. You do not have to completely remove the screws. Slip in the new actuator and reverse the process. Voila ... you have a new dryer and a very happy better half. I was given a kitchen pass to play golf and savor some "spirit" water.

Advice: Don't slam the dryer door. The actuator will last longer.

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

Removed toe plate, make sure and use something like a 5 in 1 painters tool, makes the job easier as you will see a notch inside the seam between toe plate and outer shell, take 1 screw from heater tube cover I used a nut driver, this job is best to use with a stubby socket set, there are 2 machine screws with hex heads holding the heating element to the heating tube, you cant really see the heads but can feel them with your fingers, disconnect the 2 terminals in front of this, but make sure you use a blue or black sharpie to mark the terminals, use your stubby and remove screws, then use a set of needle nose pliers and pull out the heating element, the new heating element slide right in the grooves then reverse the take off process, good luck

This is actually a lesson. The reason the dryer was heating initially was a broken coil in the heating element - I replaced that and the high temp switch that attached the the heating element - replaced the service panel, re-connected the vent line, plugged the dryer back into the wall socket started it up it got hot I was happy little pat on the back. I picked my tools and the wife started working on washing laundry again. However the first load would get dry. I unplugged the dryer from the wall, removed teh vent line, removed the service panel tested my wire connects - checked continuity across the Thermal cut out (which was good during my initial troubleshooting) and it showed open. So once again I was hauling clothes to the laundry mat until the part came in. The lesson is I thought a could save a few bucks and not replace that switch - if the heating element goes out just order both switches with the element and save your self time - replace the switches while you have the dryer apart.

First I popped open the top of the dryer so I could see the part. I removed two screws from inside the door that hold the spring lever and switch together. I removed the spring lever which is also like a bracket that holds the switch in place. Put the spring lever back in place over the switch and reinserted the two screws. Done in about 10 minutes.

The dryer door has a switch hidden inside the machine housing. The switch has a lever that protrudes and when the door it closed it hits this lever allowing the dryer to activate.

*** Unplug machine ****

To replace: pulled out the lint trap, remove 2 screws under the lint trap. Pry the top open at the front (it's press fit in place and will pry open with a flat screwdriver).

Lift lid up and prop open (like the hood of a car). Find the switch at the front of the machine just above the drum. Remove 2 screws holding the switch in place (from just inside the drum area). Pull off the broken clip bracket, replace with new one and screw it back into place. Be careful not to drop the screws or bracket or they will fall into the bottom and you may never see them again. I can't stress this enough!!

Let the lid down and give it a good rap on the front to seat it back into place, replace the 2 screws under the lint trap. Replace the lint trap. And your done.

looked in the manual, it said if there was no heat but the dryer ran, it could be one of the 2 fuses. Found your site online and read some other people's stories. Ordered the thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and it was delivered on the following Tuesday night in a bad storm(fast). It took very little time and effort to replace them, and the dryer (22 yrs old) now works better than it has for a long time. This plan worked way better than I could have imagined.

removed the broken part and replaced with the new one

Super easy repair. Funny to think I almost called to have it serviced before I found the Door Catch Kit. The original catch had actually fell into the door so when I got the new part it simply snapped in no tools needed!

Initially I figured the dryer heating element had burned out. The exploded views on PartSelect helped me find other parts in the circuit that could also be bad. I unplugged the unit and removed the back cover. I ohmed out the element. It was around 10 ohms resistance. About right for 5600W at 240V. I checked continuity through the heater circuit and found the top thermal fuse to be open. I replaced the bad part. Put everything back together and put the dryer back into service.