11061082000 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Replaced Lint Screen

two screws on filter housing and then lift dryer to up like the hood of a car the two screws on actuator, be careful not to drop actuator, if you do use a magnet to retrieve, two screws back in then wire clip top of dryer down and two screws back into filter housing and your ready to dry clothes, not recommended but if you have to dry clothes while waiting for part a clamp on the switch will allow you to use dryer, but be extremely careful because dryer will not turn off when door is opened

Took screwdriver popped out old latch in cabnet. Took pliers popped out latch out of door. Snaped new latch parts back in.

Had previously replaced the heater coil (purchased from PartSelect) and fixed the no heat problem. Should have taken advice given on this site and replace the thermostat and thermal fuse kit at that time. Since I knew how to remove the assembly it was easier this time. Just remove, unscrew the two parts and replace with the new ones. Reattach the wires and reinstall the assembly and it is now working again. Also vacumed the inside and trimed and replaced the exhast vent hookup for less restriction.

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

This did not require a "repair", just a replacement. I want to say that the response time and ease of ordering were very good. I would not hesitate to use PartSelect again when needed. Thank you!

pulled out old lint filter. Put in new lint filter.

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

I did continuity tests on the on/off push switch and the thermostats - all were good. After some research I discovered the thermal switch which is somewhat hidden on top of the blower. Sure enough, it failed the continuity test. The two sheet metal screws are difficult to loosen from the access door at the bottom of the dryer. You can test the fuse from that location but it's more difficult to replace it without taking the entire dryer apart, which is what I ultimately did. Once the drum is out the fuse is very accessible. However, if you need to make this repair, try replacing the fuse from the lower panel (and avoid the time/effort in removing the drum). You might be able to use a 1/4" open-end wrench (or pliers) to loosen the sheet metal screws. I only had a standard ratchet set which is too big to fit into that tight space. Either way, it's not a complicated repair...watch the installation video - it's not exact but it's close enough to guide you through this.

The dryer was spinning, but the display said "sensing" for the whole cycle, and there was no heat. We took off the front of the dryer and the fuse was below the drum. This was an easy swap out, but it didn't fix the dryer. Then we ordered a thermistor, which also was an easy swap out but didn't fix the dryer. Last, we bought an ohm meter and tested the heating element, and discovered it did not have continuity. I had already ordered the heating element, as that was the next item to check on the list. The element was much harder to replace, because you have to take off the drum.

Popped the panel open & replaced the one that was missing with a new one!

1) Unplug dryer from wall. 2) Remove bottom panel on front of dryer below door. There are 2 screws. You will need a 1/4" nut driver. 3) Remove 2 screws (same size) holding the clip in place at the front of the element housing. Then remove clip. 4) Pull housing and element forward. Will take some twisting and angling to get it out. 5) Make a diagram showing which wires go to what terminals. Then pull wires from terminals. (Now would be a good time to remove lint and trash or in my case that bank card I lost last year from bottom of dryer.) 6) Remove screw holding coil inside housing and pull coil from housing. Use pliers and some muscle. 7) Install new coil and replace wires, housing, and panel doing this process in reverse. For internal bias thermistor, while front panel is off, find the part inside. It is toward the center near the front of the dryer. There are 2 wires and 2 screws 1/4" hex heads. Remove wires, remove screws, and replace.

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.

The repair was easy and very simple. With nut driver removed front cover. Noted the wiring set up and removed. Lifted heat tunnel up and pulled it from the case. Removed the old heating element and install new one. Reinstalled the heat tunnel reconnected the wires. Slide tunnel back into position. Replaced screw and you are done. I always pray and ask Jesus for his help and things always go well.