11061082000 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The catch on the dryer door had to be replaced
Six(6) screws were removed to separate the front and rear sections of the dryer door to get access to the rear of the catch.Pliers were used to maneuver the catch through the opening in the cabinet from the rear. The new catch was easily snapped into the catch opening from the front of the door.
Parts Used:
-
Vincent A. from Gibsonia, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
My dryer would not work when I closed the door.
I thought it might be a damaged switch but when I removed it I noticed a metal clip that was attached to it was broken. The pin on the door pushes against this clip when the door is closed which in turn opens the circuit on the switch. I looked up the model on this website and viewed the parts diagram. There I saw the part I needed and it was listed below along with the cost. Couldn't of been easier. Thanks!
Parts Used:
-
Michael from Hudson, NH
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not start
I noticed that the dryer door switch actuator spring/lever was broken on the door. I researched how to get the top of the dryer cover off, and I took apart the mechanism. I called a local repair shop and they wanted me to buy the whole unit instead of just the switch lever. So I did some research to find the part on the web, and I came across your site. It was very easy to navigate, and I fould the part easily. I saved about 66% by just ordering the lever and not the whole unit. I would without hesitation, buy parts from your website again. The part was shipped and received very quickly. Thanks again!
Parts Used:
-
John from Sackets Harbor, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would shut off before the clothes were dry, with an E1 error code
I purchased a replacement "Thermistor", "Electrode", and "Door Catch Kit" for my 2002 Kenmore Elite He3 electric dryer. I watched several repair video's but wasn't thrilled with the instructions or the high degree of "remove and replace" of components, just to get the the parts I wanted to replace. I took the top panel off my dryer and removed the troubleshooting guide. It showed that the Thermistor, Electrode, and several other components, could be accessed from the front lower panel. I removed the panel, and then the blower cover (two screws and a clip). This gave me access to the Thermistor. It was a little tight, but I removed the part with little problem. Unfortunately the Thermistor the company sent me for my dryer model was incorrect. Not only would it not seat flush in the oblong hole in the blower housing, but the male electrical connectors were a 16th to an 8th inch too wide for the female connectors on the dryer. I ended up cleaning the old Thermistor and re-installed it. We'll see what happens. The Electrode was no problem, I simply removed the lint cover from inside the dryer (3 screws), and carefully pulled the slack in the wire harness enough to remove the electrical connections from the ends of the Electrode. That could have been done without removing the lower panel, but unless you've done it before, I'd recommend removing it, and the blower cover. It gives a better view of the connections. The electrodes have a small metal catch that holds it in the plastic vent cover. You can see it on the replacement part you'll have before you remove the old one. The door catch's are a no brainer. You can look at the new ones and see how that fit. They also come with well written instructions. Good luck with your repairs.
Parts Used:
-
Richard from Allyn, WA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Door latch broke
Exactlyt how your video showed me. I was a bit skeptical, but it was the easiest repair ever.Thank you
Parts Used:
-
Leandra from Miami, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Loud squeaky noise when dryer in operation
Using some advice here on this website, and a youtube video found by searching for 'idler pulley replacement' I was able to fix my dryer! Taking off the screws was simple, I used a cordless drill. I have some trouble removing the kick panel, and bent the latches, so there is a small gap between the dryer door panel and the kick panel, but it still works fine. Of note, you DO NOT need to remove the back panel, something I did and cost me some time. I am a bigger guy, so maneuvering on the floor to rig the dryer belt around the new idler pulley "in the dark" was cumbersome, but doable. All in all, an easy enough project for under $30 and less than an hour of my time. Kudos to this website, first, for the super fast shipping, and secondly, the reviewers who posted some instruction. Great job!
Parts Used:
-
Joshua from Beacon Falls, CT
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer wouldn't heat up
Using Partselect to troubleshoot, I determined the heating element was shot. Upon receiving the part, I disassembled the unit, inserted the new element and reconnected everything. It couldn't have been simpler and saved me a ton of money.
Parts Used:
-
Odin from Phoenixville, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The dryer was making a lout squealing noise.
Disconnect the dryer from the power source and vent hose. Using the nut driver, remove all hex screws and the electric access panel from back of dryer. Loosen the electrical service cable clamp screws with philips screw driver and disconnect the ground wire. Remove the top panel from the dryer cabinet and the screws that hold the electrical bus in place, then remove the back panel from the dryer. Feed the electrical cable through the cable clamp and rest the back of the dryer against the side. Remove the tri-ring and old idler pulley, then clean and lubricate (WD40) the axel, and install the new pulley and tri-ring. Replace the back panel and all screws.
Parts Used:
-
Kevin from Columbus, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broken safety switch for door
Lifted front top upward, removed two small/long screws holding switch assy. removed two wires, replaced wires on new switch at the N.O and COM tabs, reinstalled switch assy, lowered top down. DU FINI
Parts Used:
-
Joseph from West Chester, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Loud squealing from newer Whirlpool Front Loading Dryer
Dryer was making intermittent squealing noises sometimes it was amazingly loud, sometimes not so bad. Still, I figured this couldn't be good so I wanted to find a fix. Read the stories here and everything pointed to the 'idler pulley', so I figured I'd give it a try. For me, access was the hardest part -- my laundry room is small and I can't easily get the dryer out or move it around. Not a problem with the part, just my own setup. Important to note that this repair is best done through the BACK of the unit, not the front. Once I got access to the back (removing AC and Water used for the 'steam dry feature') I also had to disconnect several of the electrical connectors to get the unit fully apart. Good news -- the actual replacement of the pulley took about 1 minute! It was just all of the moving and disassembly that took so long. The original idler pulley had worked its way off of the shaft and was out of place and causing the squealing. All is well now, and I saved a bunch by doing it myself. No more squealing!
Parts Used:
-
Scott from Bloomington, IN
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
No heat but dryer drum was spinning
Ordered the fuse first hoping it was just that simple, watched the video for how to replace, first step was to take the back of the dryer off, well I order to take the back off I had to take off the Electrical Cord, as well as he top of the dryer. Only to find out he part I was replacing was not back there. Found the tech sheet attached within he dryer though, and as it turns out only needed to take he front bottom panel off. Without testing he continuity I was just giving this a shot, the Thermal fuse did no fix it, so I tried the high Limit Thermostat and Fuse kit still no luck. Took out the Element to find I was physically cracked in 2 pieces, replaced that and I was back up and running. And all parts were found in the bottom front panel of the dryer, so beware before you watch the video and take our whole dryer apart like I did.
Parts Used:
-
Kelli from Plymouth, MA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Horrible squealing sound - nails on a chalkboard!
First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.
Parts Used:
-
Greg from Chagrin Falls, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer door switch actuator spring broke.
Removed the broken actuator and replaced with the new one. The time to replace the dryer door switch actuator took about 5 minutes.By the way, I purchased the dryer in 1965 and it works as if it was brand new. Thank you Kenmore for a lifetime dryer.
Parts Used:
-
Anthony Di from Farmingville, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer stopped heating
I needed a schematic to know exactly where the heating element was located and to be sure of what the part looked like. I found the part and after watching the video on removing and installing the heating element decided to replace the High Limit Thermostat and fuse as well. I also read some of the other reviews. The part arrived in 2 days and I did have a little help removing the old one before the parts arrived. Since the dryer was ready for the new parts when they arrived, the install was easier. I had a little trouble balancing the flashlight to see well enough and realized it was easier to put the element in then reinstall the unit, it was a little tricky getting the element sleeve back into the slot, THEN screw the thermostat and Thermal fuse onto the element housing. Since everything was open, I vacuumed all the lint out that I could, hooked up the vent hose, plugged the unit in and pressed the button. I then basked in the glow of a working heating element and I was back in business!. Thanks for the video and help. I LOVE PartSelect.
Parts Used:
-
Dorothy from Salisbury, MD
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
dryer would not heat
Removed the front cover of the dryer as well as the lint holder and framework to gain access to the thermal fuse which is behind it and mounted on the discharge side of lint fan. replaced fuse but the dryer still wouldn't heat each time the ignitor glowed. Also then replaced the solenoid (both of them) and this fixd the problem as it has been good for a week now. The solenoid issue is not easy to conclusively identify as an issue as it is inconsistent in operation.
Parts Used:
-
mike from new egypt, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!