11061082000 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

open dyer door replace lint filter perfect fit, good price, fast delvery. thank you

First I replaced the heating element. That did not fix the problem, so I used an ohm meter to test the thermostat and fuse (thermal cut-off). One of those was bad, so I ordered the thermostat/fuse conbo and put those in. The hardest part was getting the wires to the right places. I labeled them with masking tape and a sharpie, but maybe they are sized so they only fit one place. I didn't check. The actual work of changing out the parts was super easy. I recommend testing those three parts-heating element, thermostat, fuse-with an ohm meter before buying something you don't need. I now have a spare heating element and thermostat. I should be good for another ten years!

My dryer is one of the energy efficient models (HE). The video for the installations was knowledgeable, but getting into the front of mine only required removing to screws from the bottom left & right corner (not using a putty knife to pop the springs). the plate on the front drops after that. Also when taking out the tube with the dryer element in it took a lot more twisting inside the frame to get it loose. Still turn it after the wire connections have been pulled off a little bit better than 1/4 of a turn. Also the heating element was in there really, really tight. It required tapping on the plate with a screw driver and a rubber hammer to take it out & put in (not that tough). After putting it in a 1/4 of a turn so that the tab was inside the blower tube. everything after that was pretty easy. The video showed this all being done in a clean dryer. It has been my experience that before all is running & closed back up that a vacuum or shop vac needs to go thru there to clean things up & prevent a future fire.

My way of replacing the pulley was much faster than the parts select video that showed how to replace the belt tension-er pulley. They took off the door, the entire front AND the drum to get to the pulley. I ACCESSED THE PULLEY BY REMOVING THE 4 INCH EXHAUST PIPE, (ONE SCREW) WHICH GAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH OPENING TO REPLACE THE NEARBY PULLEY! I suggest you remake that video

Easy fix. Took the front panel off, removed the heater tunnel by loosinig the two holding screws. Pulled the whole duct out of the machine and swapped out the old parts for the new. Just reverse the removal procedure and done. One thing to do is to check the exhaust duct to make shure it's not clogged. That was the reason my heating element broke.

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

removed 4 screws. 2 in the back and 2 at the lint screen door. Remove top lid of dryer and looked down and there was the door switch with the broken actuator spring. A diagram of the dryer with part locations is very helpful. I checked the switch with volt meter to make sure it was ok. It was ok! Replace the actuator and put every thing back together and dryer works just fine. Thanks to PartSelect I was able to buy the actuator spring buy itself and not have to buy the switch also.

Opened machine up, removed electric control panel, removed door assembly, removed lint collector assembly, removed and replaced 2 sensor bars then reassembled machine. Ended up not being the problem but, I now have new moisture sensing bars.

Removed lint filter cover (3 screws). Removed old lint filter. Adjusted metal guide. Reinstalled lint filter cover (3 screws). Installed lint filter. Replacement filter is a like quality.

Removed existing parts and replaced with new high limit thermostat and thermal fuse kit,replaced flue and tested. Worked like a charm.

replsce

I went to internet & got the part & instructions.the shipping cost more than the part. Saved 20.00 & gas.

Pushed the new catch in by hand. Working great.

I found on youtube that there are directions to repair. Dryer problems are usually one of three things, the door switch being one of them. i checked this last (should have been first). ordered the part( about 65% off sear's cost) and it came in one day! It went on really easy as long as you knew from repair video how to access inside. almost spent $400.00 on a new one.

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.