Models > 11060902990 > Instructions

11060902990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11060902990 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11060902990
61-75 of 416
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The dryer suddenly started running cold - it would turn, the timer worked...but no heat. My wife mentioned that it had been taking longer and longer to dry a load of clothes....

  • Customer: Geoff from Farmington CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Popped the lower cover off the dryer, found the thermal fuse and thermostat mounted on the heating tube. Removed the screws with a nutdriver, swapped wires to the new parts, and reinstalled. Then I spent 30 minutes vacuuming 13 years worth of lint and crud out of the machine - it was pretty gummed up in spots, which is probably the cause of the failure.
I have a 25 foot run of hose from the dryer outside, so I replaced that with 4" metal ducting. Clothes dry much faster now!!! Maybe my electric bill will go down (fat chance :) )

Dryer was taking twice as long to dry as it used to.

  • Customer: Glenn from East Brunswick NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Took of the back cover, and removed the vent connecting the blower motor to the drum. It was completly full of lint, so cleaned it out completly, and tried the dryer again. The heater element was still cutting off early, and the clothes were not getting very warm, but better than before. Decided to change the thermal cut-off switches. Ordered the parts on Sun, they came in on Tuesday. Dryer was up and running Tuesday night. Just 2 screws per switch, took less than 1/2 hour. The dryer now runs like brand new, and my wife was ready to fork over $800 for a new one!

Dryer wouldn't run

  • Customer: Edward from Richlands NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Extremely easy repair! Unplug the dryer. Remove the lint trap screen. Take the two screws out of the lint trap chute, pry up the top of the dryer, insert wood or have someone hold top up, remove two screws holding the switch in place while holding the switch so the old spring doesn't fall. Remove old spring and replace with new one. Re-attach switch to dryer with two screws. Plug in and test run. Lower top and push firmly to engages clips. Re-install two scres in lint trap chute followed by the lint trap screen and you are finished!

Repair took about five minutes and saved approximately $70!

TOb stopped turning after a week or so of high pitched "squeals" coming from inside the dryer.

  • Customer: Robert from Princeton WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

Washer stopped working mid cycle restarts after resetting lid

  • Customer: Eric from West Chester PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.

dryer had no heat, all other functions worked

  • Customer: Bryan from west valley city UT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
After replacing the heat element as a guess, (which did not fix it), I measured voltage with a DVOM, found lower cut off switch in op, And thanx to some tips on parts select I ordered the the Thermal cut off kit, fast shipping, installed very easily and all is working properly

worn out part

  • Customer: John from Tucson AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.

Dryer would run, but no heat.

  • Customer: William from Galion OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First I did a search on dryer repair. Found a website that described easy things to check with an ohm-meter. I then performed the continuity checks on the items and found the high-limit one was open, in other words, no good. It works similar to a fuse. All this was done after removing the back panel, just a few screws. The reason it exceeded the high limit, possibly because I never opened the back up and cleaned it. Found out it should be done every couple years. My vent line had a hole in it and was letting lint get drawn into the heating element, could have been a fire.

my dryer would not heat up any longer

  • Customer: Chris from Great Bend KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I had already taken the coil out of the heating housing to check for a break in the heating element. I took this time to vacuum out all the lint inside the cabinet. I slid the new coil into the housing and reattached the wires. Plugged the dryer back in and turned it on to make sure the coil heated up. It worked so I put all the screws back in and fastend the front back on and were in bussiness!

Not heating

  • Customer: Manuel from Key Biscayne FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
So simple.... I have no idea how to fix anything but I took a crack it. Looked inside and pulled out the resistor. I noticed the coil was broken so I replaced it with a newn part and reinstalled it. Worked like a charm. Saved myself alot of money!!!!

Taking 90 minutes + to dry one load

  • Customer: Bryan from newington CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the back of the dryer about 8 screws. Removed the Thermostat 250 F and replaced with new. Dries a load of clothes in one cycle on medium. Not bad for a 16 dollar part. I am a computer tech and I am used to taking computers a part but I think most people that are in anyway mechanically inclined and can look at a diagram could do this and save yourself a lot of money.

The old door catch failed. Clothes won't dry with door open !

  • Customer: Theresa from Norfolk VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

idler pully sqwieling

  • Customer: Jerry Duty from Fort Walton Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!

Dryer Would Not Heat

  • Customer: John from Raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
The dryer stopped heating. Took the front lower panel off of the dryer and obtained the troubleshooting instructions stored there. Used an ohmmeter (most volt meters also have an ohmmeter) and tested all the electrical components one by one (thermostat, thermal fuse, heater coil - following the troubleshooting instructions provided with the dryer) and found that I didn't have any resistance across my heater element. Removed it and sure enough there was a break in the heater coil. Ordered a new heater element from PartSelect for less than $50 and replaced it myself. Saved myself a good bit of money repairing my dryer myself. It was very straight forward and easy. If you can follow easy to read instructions you can do it.

Element not heating up.

  • Customer: Phillip from Breinigsville PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Opened access door, noticed main power wire to heating element was partially melted. This was caused by a bad connection to the drying element, loose. Removed heating element assembly. Cut bad section of wire and added new connection. While doing this the thermostats plastic casing cap came off ! Probably due to exessive heat / resistance from the bad connection. This confirmed why there was no heat. Intalled new thermostat and and am now good to go !
All Instructions for the 11060902990
61-75 of 416