11060882990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Boyfriend stated it was simple, he removed the back and replaced the part using a few everyday tools.

Unplug Dryer.
Disconnect dryer vent line from rear of machine.
Removed 8 screws holding back cover on.
Removed back cover.
Disconnect 2 quick connect wires from dryer heating element tube on right side of the machine.
Remove 2 screws holding element cover in place.
Remove cover and element.
Remove thermostat from unit and connect to new unit.
Re install parts in reverse order of above.

Removed 2 screws in the lint filter and popped off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Slid the drum off and set aside. Replaced support rollers. Placed the belt over the drum and placed the drum back in the dryer. Wound the belt over the tensioner and motor pulley. Turned the drum to keep seal from folding up. Replaced front and top.

Tip: Use bungee cord or rope to hold top up and out of the way while doing this job.

I order a new belt and I watched the video instructions on how to replace it, follow the instructions, removed the top and took out the dryer tumbler or can, found a broken idler pulley, order a new one, got it in about two days, replaced all the parts and now its working like a new dryer, I called several repair shops and I got estimates from $65 to $150, I spend less than $35 and it took me about 35 minutes to install and I got it fixed..

repair was fairly cut and dry...if you have any handyman experience....the hard part was partselect web page...starts out easy to locate part if you have the correct model number....however after that it can be confusing as to what you are looking for part wise and if you have located the correct part....diagrams are helpful if you could see them and/or understand them or what you are looking for....as a novice can be fustrateing....even after calling partselect for help/explaination....other wise it went well for a repair and hopeful will get another 10yrs out of this dryer.....

Followed instructions from video, just removed lint collector, dryer top and front panel, removed broken belt and old idler pulley. Vacuumed and cleaned up inside dryer.installed new pulley and rib belt according to printed instructions,installed new dryer duct and new clamps. Saved myself huge service call or having to buy new dryer.Will be checking with this site on any future repairs instead of calling a repair service. Your video made it real easy to repair.and I am 77 years old.. Bob

The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.

We pulled the back off the dryer and we weren't sure where the problem was exactly. So we pulled off the heating element and the thermostat. The heating element seemed to be burnt out, so we ordered that and the thermostat. We got the parts very quickly, so we put them in and found that the dryer still didn't heat. There was another thermostat (trip thermostat) that we decided to order and try...bingo...that was it. Now it works like a charm.

Took the dryer top off and removed the bad part. Looked it up online and found a replacement by looking for whirlpool parts. They didn't have one at the local parts stores so I ordered the part online and had it mailed within three days. I replaced it quite easily. It worked and I put everything back together and my wife took over the tricky part of drying the laundry! The repair was quite easy for a non mechanical person like me.

Really simple, the dryer repair guy I had out did not have the part and wanted $100 to fix. Did it myself quickly and easily and the dryer is working like a charm.

The dryer quit working. I did some trouble shooting on your amazing site, ordered what i thought it might need and then got to work. Took no time to get it apart and replace roller kit and belt. What took the longest was getting in there and cleaning out probably 15 years worth of dirt and dust. If you have not opened your dryer up and done this, 10/10 recommend, because in doing so i found that the motor was the real culprit. Once i opened it up more, especially cleaning around the blower fan and motor, i was half a day in. Put it all back together and got it running for two more loads before the motor quit. Replaced that and since the hard work was done, had it back in in half an hour and running great. Probably will need to redo the felt seal one day, but for now, i am calling it a win. This is my go to site for all things and i have been able to work on most of my major appliances and do it myself using the helpful information here.

Un plug or remove power before you start. First you would have to remove the rear panel of the dryer. All you need is a quarter inch nut driver. Then look at the bottom right side of the dryer. There you will see the heating duct. At the very bottom is where the element is. There are two screws on both sides( they will all be removed with a quarter inch nutdriver ). After you have removed the four screws holding the element on you will have to remove two wires from the elemet be sure that you mark them and dont mix them up. You will also have to remove the round temperature sensor because you will have to reinstall it on the new element. Then you get new element and reverse the order of my directions. Good luck and be safe ALL WAYS REMOVE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES.

First I had to take the top of the dryer off by taking the two screws off of the lint trap on top then I pushed the top forward a little and lifted up. Then I had to take the front of the dryer off (I think there was two screws). After that I had to take the belt off to be able to get the drum out. I pulled off the old seal and had to use some glue remover to get the old glue off. I then put the new seal on did a little bit at a time to make sure it was on correctly. The glue is really sticky once it starts to dry. It takes two people to put the seal on especially when it gets down to the end. Although my dryer defenitly needed a new seal it was not the problem. It was not very difficult at all, just more time consuming with trying to get the old glue off. Will be buying a new motor, found one cheap and alot less expensive than buying a new dryer considering when I am done I will pretty much have a new dryer for about $120.00.

It's amazing... I fixed my dryer!! I am a 47 year old woman with no technical training, and I did it!

I live in a apartment and I bought the Whirlpool Dryer (Model #LER7646JQ0) USED for $150 about 6 months ago. The dryer started blowing cold air, so I called the place that I bought it from and they quoted me a price of at least $300 to fix the dryer.

After searching through google, I found the partselect.com website, and read the repair stories. I decided to take a chance. I ordered just 2 of the suggest 4 parts that could fix the issue, and the dryer did not work. The next day I order the other 2 parts, and that did it - my dryer was fixed.

The diagrams on the site were a little confusing to me (the dryers looks a little simpler inside) but it was easy to repair. I used a screw driver and plier to do the repair, however it would have been much easier if I had a socket set. I would suggest buying all parts suggested, and return the items you don't need. Here are the parts I used:

1. THRMST-FIX (Thermostat, High Limit 221 F
2. USE WPL 279838 (Heating Element (10" long x 6" wide)
3. Thermal Cut-Off Kit
4. Cycling Thermostat (Limit: 155-25) (Thermostat, Internal-Bias)

Good Luck!

Pulled the dryer away from the wall took back cover off the dryer. Used volt/ohm meter to identify the bad element. Ordered the element it came in two days. 2 screws and 2 wires to plug in and we were back to drying cloths