11060857990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Aft seal deterioated and causing brown spot on clothing due to netal to metal contact.
Removed top and front of dryer then drum and followed the instructions in the package. It was a real simple procedure. I did additional cleaning while the dryer was disassembled.
Parts Used:
-
Cleo from Laurinburg, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Motor failure
Used this resource and others' advice -thank you . Make sure to disconnect power first. I had replaced the rollers and tensioner a week earlier due to squeaking, but mine was the rare one where squeaking meant motor failure, so I had to place another parts order. The dryer was 19 years old, and my blower wheel did not simply 'unscrew with reverse threads'. During removal the blower wheel's plastic deformed, so had to do like someone else did and cut the rear shaft with a reciprocating saw. Just be careful not to damage the bulkhead's built-in bracket that anchors the rear of the motor. I think it was a 13/16" wrench that fit the blower wheel and I forget the size for the pulley nut on the front of the motor, but I suggest a deep socket since it held well. My best advice when dealing with a motor replacement is to ensure the blower wheel wheel will separate successfully from the motor before placing your parts order should it be a stubborn removal. Good luck.
Parts Used:
-
James from COTTONWOOD, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
One of the drum support rollers was worn out
I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.
Parts Used:
-
David from Fleetwood, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
13 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Badly worn idler pulley and rollers.
Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.
Parts Used:
-
TODD from GRASS VALLEY, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
broken clip on top panel hold down
pressed clip into hole on top of front panel. first remove two philip screws that hold filter so you can lift top up.
Parts Used:
-
Mark from Huntington Station, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
15 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not start
Dryer would not start when the start switch was pushed. I was advised by the local repair shop to replace the "push to start switch" and the "thermal fuze". I unplugged the dryer and removed the back dryer casing which took all of 3 minutes. I removed the start switch and thermal fuze using directions on the whirlpool parts forum. This took maybe 5 minutes. I replaced with the new parts and put the casing back on the dryer. The entire project took 15 minutes. The dryer works perfectly. 34 USD for parts and shipping instead of 600 for a new dryer. Easy to identify the parts needed using the model number and the parts arrived the next morning I will use this company again for sure!
Parts Used:
-
Daniel from Humboldt, KS
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
dryer kept running when door was open
changed out the switch. easy. about 20 minutes. part came quickly (2-3 days). great service. thanks.
Parts Used:
-
Dean from New Bern, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
11 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
my teenage son was messing around and got into the dryer and broke the door catch and bent the door.
removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!
Parts Used:
-
Dawn from Chesapeake City, MD
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
13 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
the directions didn't say I needed clips to hold the felt in place while I did the glue
Once I started using a bunch of clothespins to hold the felt in place and then started gluing small sections at a time I was able to complete the task. The glue comes out of the tube very quickly so don't squeeze it a lot.
Parts Used:
-
Todd from SAN JOSE, CA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The dryer belt broke. During the effort to replace the belt it was noted that the lint trap housing seals were in need of replacement.
With the dryer taken apart to replace the broken belt it was obvious that the lint seals had not been working properly due to the excessive amount of lint covering all of the inside surfaces of the dryer. The belt idler pully had also moved from its normal mounting position and was laying at the bottom of the dryer. Because the lint had covered the bottom before the belt broke it was obvious to determine where the idler pully attached to the bottom.
Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.
While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.
Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:
I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.
The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.
The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.
The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.
The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.
The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.
Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.
With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.
The front of the dryer was attached .
The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.
The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.
The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.
The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.
Great parts and support Thankyou
Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.
While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.
Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:
I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.
The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.
The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.
The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.
The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.
The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.
Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.
With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.
The front of the dryer was attached .
The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.
The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.
The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.
The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.
Great parts and support Thankyou
Parts Used:
-
Benjamin from WELLS, ME
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer belt broke- drum would not turn
This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..
Parts Used:
-
Ronald from Oakdale, CT
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Old motor was making noise and tripping after a few minutes
I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.
Parts Used:
-
John from Midland, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
replace lint filter
-
Ed from Greensboro, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broken dryer belt
Prop up the hood of the dryer with flat bar. Take out 2 screws holding dryer front end and 2 switch screws for dryer light inside dryer door. Secure dryer drum with bungee cord. Lift front end and remove. Remove broken belt. Route new belt over drum and pass underneatch idler pulley at botttom of dryer. Apply pressure to idler pulley w/one hand while securing belt around motor with the other. Make sure drum seals are snug between front and back of dryer while putting everything back together.
Have confidence. This is a very easy fix.
Have confidence. This is a very easy fix.
Parts Used:
-
Steven from Bridgewater, MA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The old door catch failed. Clothes won't dry with door open !
-
Theresa from Norfolk, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!