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11060857990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11060857990 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11060857990
46-60 of 1,553
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dryer drum wouldn't turn

  • Customer: Steve from Peachtree City GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure out you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!

Dryer would stop running after several minutes. Once cooled it would start again. Motor worn out and binding.

  • Customer: Angela from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Remove back cover
Raise top
Remove filter assembly
Remove front cover and drum

Tip: Use an end wrench on the fan and another on the pully shaft of the motor to remove fan from motor prior to removing motor from cradle.

Vacuum everything while disassembled

Remember to take your time and not force anything and this will go smooth.

had to replace the motor

  • Customer: charles from parker CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Follow the advice given in the partsselect website. However, while removing the blower, my hand slipped into the housing and cut my thumb. Connected the wires to the junction box on the motor but didn't realize that the contacts would hit the drum when reinstalled. The original junction box was at a 90 degree rotation relative to the new box. When trying to test the breaker tripped. Using the multitester I found out that I burned out the thermal fuse, and froze the door switch. I replace both those parts and started the dryer and could hear a grinding sound. Inspection revealed that the housing of the motor was rubbing against the drum. Removing the drum yet again, I rotated the housing and replaced the drum. The dryer was finally working well.

The dryer was running and it quit, just stopped. A friend looked at it and thought it was this switch. I purchased the switch and he installed and it still did not work.

  • Customer: Debbie from Mooresville, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
No, if that had of been the problem, it would have worked. However, I called a service man out to look at it. It was a fuse that does not look like a fuse. I had the system already torn apart and cleaned. The service took a meter and checked the fuse ( that did not look like a fuse) and it was bad. It cost 14.00 for the fuse, it took less than 5 minutes for installation and the service fee was $65.00. My advise, get a meter, check everything yourself, and only purchase what you need.

door switch - broken tab

  • Customer: Nick from Reynoldsburg OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dryer, removed two screws from the lint trap area, pried up the top of the dryer to get to the switch, removed two screws securing the switch, unplugged the switch, plugged in the new one and reversed the procedure.

No dryer heat

  • Customer: lori from windsor MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Took the back off with a cordless drill with an apex holder. I unplugged the old wires from the old heating element and plugged them into the new heating element. Put the back back on after testing it to make sure it worked and that was it. Since this element was in a housing it was really simple to reinstall the new one.

Replaced belt while I was in there replacing motor

  • Customer: Douglas from COMMERCE TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis:
1. Unplug dryer;
2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;
2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);
3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);
4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;
5. Unplug door switch;
6. Unscrew screws from #4;
7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;
8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc.
9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.
If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.

The old lint screen on the dryer was broken

  • Customer: Bill from Farmington Hills MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I analyzed the situation to see how to remove the old lint screen. I carefully pulled out the old lint screen. I was careful not to drop it. With caution, I placed the old lint screen in the trash receptacle that was nearby. Next, I opened the box that the new lint screen came in with a sharp knife. I removed the new lint screen from the box, took off the plastic wrap and inserted the lint screen in the same slot that the old one used to be in. I tested that it was seated correctly by pulling it out and reseating it in the slot. The true test came when I ran my first load of laundry through the dryer. The total repair time for this fix was 14.92 seconds.

One of the power cord connections on the terminal block was loose. Screw on terminal block was cross threaded when installed. Took six years to smoke the wire.

  • Customer: DAVID from LEESBURG FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 20 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Removed and replaced terminal block, power cord and black wire to timer.

Drum would turn but not heat.

  • Customer: james from corpus christi TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
After tearing the back off by removing the numerous 1/4 inch hex screws, and locating the schematic in the compartment behind the dryer controls, I took a multimeter on the resistance setting and tested all the components I deduced were part of the heating circuit until i found the upper limit temp fuse of was open (i.e infinite , OL, how ever your meter will display this). I ordered the kit from here and upon installation found I had a different type of Thermistat assembly then the kit came with, however, the kit did anticipate this might happen and had "some" instruction on modifying the wire harness to accommodate the part. Essentially if you have this older style you will need to do some basic wire stripping and crimping to make it all work. While I am an electrical technician on aircraft, anyone should be able to follow the how-to video on this page(which deals exactly with what I had) and with the proper tools install this part.
I also cleaned out and inspected the rest of the dryer since I had it all open, including looking for burning on the heating element and inspection of the rest of the wiring harness. Finally removed the lint chute by removing the two screws located under the lint basket door, and the nuts holding it to the dryer frame and did a work over on it, finding a lot of compacted lint and debris inside. A can of compressed air helped a lot for this.

Dryer would quit before the end of the cycle

  • Customer: Ernest from Beaumont TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
My wife reported that the dryer was not working. I checked it and it seemed to work fine. This went on for about a month or two. Every time I checked it, it started just fine.

Well, she threatened to go buy a new dryer, I took her more seriously. I thought perhaps a thermal protection was the cause. But when I dug into it, I learned that when those trip out, they are permanent (have to be replaced).

I finally noticed loud humming sound the motor made at start-up, when it failed to start turning on one occasion and eventually tripped out the motors thermal protection.

I ordered the new drive motor form PartSelect.com.

Replacing the motor was fairly easy if you like to take stuff apart. One thing that I had not anticipated was that the two foam gaskets on the exhaust duct were dry rotted. I went to my local part supplier to get them. They did not have them in stock. :( While I was there, I asked how much the motor was, they wanted $50 more than PartSelect.com :D

I put it back together without the new gaskets, and it runs like new. I ordered the gaskets from PartSelect and will add them when they arrive.

My wife is happy again, she can bust out the laundry in one day; it had been taking here all weekend.

I learned to take her at her word.

Dryer sounded like it had rocks in it when running

  • Customer: Mark from Kirkwood MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Following the instructions that came with the parts, I removed the top off of the dryer, which was very easy, two more 5/16" screws and I had the drum out. I confess, this was my second time at this repair. 1st time I neglected to replace the rear drum seal which I strongly recommend you do while you have it open. I only replaced the 2 wheels last time and it failed very soon afterwards.
Lesson Learned: Always replace the rear drum seal when you replace the support wheels!!!

Change dryer belt

  • Customer: Scott from Bayport NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

the drum was not turning because a broken belt

  • Customer: thomas from bloomfield NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

Dryer would not heat up; blow only air

  • Customer: William from Sacramento CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the thermal cut off kit, and the dryer now had heat. Three days later, no heat; the thermal fuse also did not have continuity. Read on-line that overheating was the most likely cause. So, I checked the exhaust duct for blockage, but it was clear. Then, I removed the exhaust canister at the back of dryer; the entire bottom was filled with lint the size of a softball. The lint was heating up, and when it got too hot, it blew the thermal cut off. Cleaned out the lint, replaced the thermal cut off, and now it's fine. Moral of the story: Remove the lint canister and clean it.
All Instructions for the 11060857990
46-60 of 1,553