Models > 11060857990 > Instructions

11060857990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11060857990 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11060857990
31-45 of 1,553
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

the dryer only blew cold air

  • Customer: charles from waukesha WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 26 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
actually i found your site before i even looked at the dryer,thats how i knew to check for the thermal fuse.
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)

Dryer belt snapped

  • Customer: J. from Oakdale NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

The dryer would run i.e. the drum would turn, but there was no heat so the clothes didn’t dry.

  • Customer: David from Joppa MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I took a ¼ inch nut driver and removed the rear cover from the unit, and then used a continuity tester to determine which safety device was open. According to the schematic there was one non-resettable safety device in the heating circuit, and that was open. The kit that I ordered came with thermal cutoff and a thermostat. I replaced both parts and the unit now operates normally. While I had the dryer open I thoroughly cleaned the dust and lint from the unit and also the 4 inch vent pipe. I ordered this part on Friday morning and received it early Saturday afternoon.

Dryer was sqeaking loudly when running

  • Customer: Edward from Andover NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 26 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
I Looked on internet sites for this type of problem.
Most sites said the support rollers could cause this.
I found your site PartSelect and with help of your diagrams of the machine ordered the parts I thought were needed plus other parts that might cause the problem.
With machine torn down I replaced the rollers.
I had also ordered the main drive belt and idler assembly with the rollers and these also needed replacement. It is a good idea to order other suspect parts when doing this type of repair since you can return the parts not needed.
Your return policy is great.

Edward Brennan

Dryer would run without pushing the Start Button

  • Customer: Donald from Kanona NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off the circuit breaker ( Or remove the Fuse/s )to the dryer,

Removed 2 screws that hold the control cluster to the dryer top. Then I slid the control cluster forward and up to release it from the dryer. then I removed the start button knob to the start switch by pulling on it straight out. Next I removed the six 1/4" hex head screws from back of the removed control cluster. Then using a flat bladed screwdriver I pried up the tab coming off the switch housing. just enought to allow the switch to be turned a quarter of a turn counter clockwise which allows the switch to be removed from the back of the control cluster. Next with a pair of long nose pliers gently pull straight up on the 2 wire terminals attaching wires to the switch. Make a diagram before removing them so that they can be put on the new switch in the same way. Then orient the new switch with its tab located a quarter turn counter clockwise from the hole you pried the old switch tab from. push down on the switch while turning it clockwise 1/4 turn so the tab on the switch drops into it's locking hole. Then using your diagram put the wire terminals back on the switch terminals in the same order and position they came off. Replace the Control panel with the screws you removed. Next position the control panel feet over the holes for them in the top of the dryer and push back a little on the panel to lock it in the correct position. Then take the two longer screws and put one on each side of the panel at the correct angle (not straight up and down) but tilted forward to match the holes and carefully tighten the screws. Next carefully replace the push to start knob on the new switch. Turn the Circuit Breaker (or reinstall the Fuse/s) for the Dryer back on. Then test and make sure that when you select the cycle and the door is closed that pushing the start switch causes the dryer to start. You have done it!

No power

  • Customer: Nick from Brandon FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.

replaced heating element in my dryer

  • Customer: Marlene from Indianapolis IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 28 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to do the repair myself. Happily, I was able to and my dryer works like new ! I figure I probably saved about a 100 bucks doing it myself rather than calling out a repair man. Oh, did I mention I am female and didn't have to have a man do this for me. :)

dryer would not heat

  • Customer: Leon from Jasper AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the four screws holding the
heating element, then I pulled the element out
and then put the new element in and hucked
the wires from the old element after I disconnected
them to the new element..no problem......

the dryer element was not coming on and looked like it had burned up

  • Customer: Benjamin from Greenville NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
i decided to order the new element which was the most expensive part then decided to add the thermostats just incase they were bad because they were rather inexpensive. got the parts in took the back off the dryer located the parts i ordered and simply replaced them with the power cut off to the unit. put the back on and it heated like it was better that new my clothes dry 5 times faster than it did when i bought the thing.

Drum stopped turning, fan continued to blow

  • Customer: Richard from Davie FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 22 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, etc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.

dryer wouldn't dry at all

  • Customer: David from Bend OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 25 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
1. UNPLUG 2.Undo 8 screws @ back of dryer. Locate heating element midway down on right about 6"x10" has three thermostat wires connected to it undo the 2 screws & 3 wires either order. You will need to pry up GENTLY on the thermostat on the old element. Replace themostat to new element and make a test run to make sure its running and HOTand repeat steps in reverse order...

Needed lint filter for my old Kenmore dryer that was no longer manufactured by Sears.

  • Customer: Richard from Fairfax VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Lint filter supplied by Parts Select was an exact replacement by an aftermarket manufacturer. I put the old one and the new one side by side and they were identical (of course, the handle wasn't broken off on the new one!). I coulnd't be happier. It arrived at my house 2 days after I ordered it. I highly recommend Parts Select.

Dryer making loud squealing noise when running

  • Customer: Stephen from Springfield MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
The (front) bearing and seal are not metal parts but a fabric and and mesh like material. It is somewhat like a fabric belt made to hold up a pair of trousers. The belt sits in a channel that goes around the door on the inside of the front panel. To get to the combination bearing/seal you remove two screws that are located under the cover of the lint trap. These have to be removed to lift the top. Then using a putty knife or screw driver you must pop the top (which snaps down on plastic clips) at the front corners. The top lifts up and folds back on hinges. The front is attached to the sides by one screw on each side near the top. A nut driver will remove then easily. Once the 2 screws are removed lift the front panel about 2 inches to disengage the front panel from the clips that hold the front attached to the sides near the bottom. When you remove the front panel the dryer drum will literally fall out so you want to get hold of it before pulling the front panel away so it isn't damaged and and doesn't damage the gas burner assembly which is under the drum to the left side. The drum is very light. I supported it with an empty shoe box while the front was off.
Once the front is off you'll see the bearing/seal on the inside of the front panel and it will be obvious how to remove the old one and place the new one. There are three pegs on the front panel that receive the three holes in the fabric bearing/seal. The seal will stay in place while you remove the shoe box and put the front cover back on. The drum fits over the seal like a lid on a jar and just slides on the fabric when the drum rotates. Low tech but the drums slides easily on the bearing material and seems to last a long time.

I also did the rear dryer seal. This is similar to the front. To do this you follow the procedure above but to get to the real seal you will have to remove the drum. It will fall out on its own if the front panel is removed. The drive belt goes around the drum. It is about 3/8th of and wide and just wraps around the drum without any teeth or channels or anything. Let the belt fall to the bottom as you lift the drum forward and out of the cabinet. The drum is light. Just put it on the floor and strip off the old rear seal which is glued on. It too is fabric. Clean up the drum a little and fit the new seal on the drum. Once the seal is on the drum you can lift the edge of the fabric seal and glue the fabric flange to the drum. This becomes pretty obvious once you have the seal on the drum. If you put the glue on the drum first you will make a mess. Put the seal on properly and the lift the edge to apply the adhesive all the way around. The adhesive sets enough in a hour or so. Put the drum back in and replace the front panel. Don't forget the drive belt. It goes around the drive motor that is located on the bottom of the dryer on the right, around or over an idler pulley (my older model does not have a idler wheel but rather a bracket with a "slide" that the belt runs over that keeps sufficient tension on the belt to drive the drum. If your belt falls off the motor and the idler pulley falls out it may be confusing how the belt goes in. My idler bracket is held in slots on the bottom of the cabinet merely by the tension of the belt - no screws or anything. I suggest that you put the belt around the drum first, then the drive motor. You will have slack in the belt and it becomes a little more obvious how the idler pulley (which is mounted on spring steel) goes in and takes up that slack and keeps modest tension on the belt. The rubber side of the belt goes against the drum, the leathery side is the outside.

Timer not working

  • Customer: erik from wasilla AK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was straightforward. When I got the old timer out, I found the problem. Two small screws secure the geardrive for the timer to the electrical part. One of the screws had vibrated loose and allowed the gearbox to float away from the electrical board, so the gears werent meshing and the little ground tab inside wasn't touching the metal geardrive housing. In short, I would recommend removing your old timer and diagnosing the problem. before spending $100 on a new one. If I had done that, I could have just tightened the screw back in and saved myself the $$. Just FYI

Busted Belt & Pulley

  • Customer: James from West Haven CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actually did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!
All Instructions for the 11060857990
31-45 of 1,553