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11060096991 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11060096991
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Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
672 of 730 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burned out heater element
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in an open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element
  • Alan from Brooksville, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
492 of 575 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer not heating
Our dryer is 8 years old and had been slowly taking longer and longer to dry clothes, to the point that I was ready to purchase a new one. When the dryer stopped heating completely, I removed the bottom panel and found that the heating element was no longer working. I checked online and found this website. The top two recommended fixes for this issue was to replace the heating element and/or thermal cut-off kit (two sensors). I chose to purchase both, delivered to me very quickly (two days). I figured for $80 you can't go wrong. Here's the procedure I followed:

On my particular model, the back does NOT come off and all of my repairs had to be made via the front, bottom panel.

(1) disconnected 6 wires (3 pairs) from the heating element and two thermal sensors
(2) removed entire heating element 'sleeve" which contained both the heating element AND the two sensors. The space is way too tight to try and do this any other way (and I highly recommend this method to save a ton of time and frustration.)
(3) vaccummed out the entire inside of the dryer, clearing all lint and debris, including tons of lint creating a blockage, thus slowing the ability to dry over the years
(4) replaced sensors and heating element
(5) installed heating element & Thermal sensors back inside and reconnected all wires
(6) tested dryer to ensure that heating element lit up and produced heat - it worked beautifully!

Besides fixing the heating issue, cleaning out the clogged lint pipe at the back of the dryer and wall have made the old dryer new again. It's working better than ever!
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Wesley from Boyds, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
294 of 332 people found this instruction helpful.
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felt strip came off lint screen
ordered new lint screen, removed old screen, inserted new screen.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • JEFFREY from FALL RIVER, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
219 of 270 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door wouldn't latch.
I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Melody from North Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
202 of 282 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer door would not stay shut
This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Pam from Woodbridge, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
103 of 106 people found this instruction helpful.
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door switch actuator spring broken
-unplugged appliance
-removed lint trap
-removed 2 lint trap shute screws with phillips screwdriver
-popped open top of appliance with standard screwdriver by applying pressure at each front corner so that it could be tilted up to access actuator switch on right side of door
-removed 2 actuator switch screws, located on upper right side of laundry door, with phillips screwdriver (screws are accessed from outside of door frame not through appliance top).
-discarded broken actuator spring (accessed from open appliance top)
-replaced new actuator spring
-replaced 2 actuator switch screws
-closed top
-replaced 2 lint trap shute screws
-replaced lint trap
-plugged in appliance
-tested for operation
-kissed by happy wife
Parts Used:
Dryer Door Switch Actuator Spring/Lever
  • Paul from Vero Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
92 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer wouldn't dry
un pluged it then removed the hose took the back off took out the 2 screws out of each part replace it with the new parts , then pluged it back to make sure it would work and it did the very first time. i'm 1 happy roper owner.
Parts Used:
Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal Door Catch Kit
  • JEFFERY from ABINGDON, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
110 of 191 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door won't latch
I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Jill from bellevue, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
95 of 156 people found this instruction helpful.
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Rear tub seal failure
I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Seal with Adhesive
  • Jerry from Everett, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
66 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
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No Heat When Drying
I followed the tips from the repair video. Easy as 1-2-3. I changed both the heating element as well as the thermal cut off. Went ahead and repaired the door catch. Brand new dryer for the next 10 years. I do advise to pull out your shop vac and remove the tons of lint that accumulates in the bottom. A definite fire hazardous. I do attest that this web site is the best by far.
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element Thermal Cut-Off Kit Door Catch Kit
  • DAVID from CHARLOTTE, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
60 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
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Felt gasket on lint filter loose...
Found this site by googling, and it works! I searched lint filters and just ordered based on how it looked...LOL! Husband wasn't home, it looked pretty much like the one I had in my hand, so.... I ordered it. It is the perfect fit and seems to have a tighter gasket glued in all around the screen. Let's hope this one lasts longer than 6 months! Thank you Parts Select for being so fast!! Filter got here in less than 48 hrs.!
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • Catherine from Atascadero, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
60 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very Loud Squeaking Noise
1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. Easy repair 15-30
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley
  • GREGORY from Wilsonville, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
60 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
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door kept coming open dryer shuts off
use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • RONALD from SALMON, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
95 of 176 people found this instruction helpful.
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Our dryer started squealing and would then stop running.
After determining that the dryer motor was the issue I wrote down the part number and logged on to partselect.com.

I input the number into the search box and there was the exact motor I needed.

The price was fair and the delivery quick so I figured I would give yuo guys a shot and see how it goes.

The part showed up on time and as expected. It was well packed and most importantly - it was the CORRECT part.

I disassembled the dryer which involved removing the lint trap, pulling out the blower fan and removing the motor cover. The motor was held in with 2 metal screws and wiring harness.

I took the belt off of the tensioner and pulled out the old motor. The motor was mounted with 2 clips which snapped off with ease. Reassembly was a breeze since the motor fit perfectly- the entire transplant operation took all of about 35 minutes.

I crossed my fingers, turned on the gas, plugged it in and........SUCCESS!

Since the dryer was down for over a week the backlog of laundry was piled pretty high. This replacement motor would immediately be put to the test.

It has been 5 days of non-stop drying and no squeeks, no squeels and nothing but dry clothes!

Thanks to Part Select for getting everything right the first time. It made a potentially very bad experience turn out as good as I could have ever hoped.
Parts Used:
Drive Motor with Threaded Shaft - 120V 60Hz
  • Kelly from Aptos, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
53 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the 11060096991
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