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1106004701
1106004701 Kenmore Washer - Overview
Sections of the 1106004701
[Viewing 3 of 3]
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Light Bulb - 10W
PartSelect #: PS11739347
Manufacturer #: WP22002263
This ten watt appliance light bulb is two inches tall. It is used with both washers and dryers.
$16.32
In Stock
Dryer Door Switch Actuator Spring/Lever
PartSelect #: PS11743767
Manufacturer #: WP691581
This black actuator spring with white rubber tip is used for both dryer doors and washer lids.
$8.00
In Stock
Centerpost Gasket
PartSelect #: PS11723081
Manufacturer #: W10814296
This part may also be referred to as a main outer tub seal. This part prevents leaking from the bottom of the tub. The gasket is approximately 2 inches in diameter to the outer edge, black in color, a...
$5.76
In Stock
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11740613
Manufacturer #: WP285655
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installat...
$11.10
In Stock
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS11748588
Manufacturer #: WPW10119828
Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
$11.80
In Stock
Front Top Lock
PartSelect #: PS11738705
Manufacturer #: WP18776
This part is used to secure the top panel to the cabinet. Sold individually.
$13.19
In Stock
Lid Hinge Bearing
PartSelect #: PS11738874
Manufacturer #: WP21258
This is the bearing for the lid hinge. Sold individually.
$11.10
In Stock
Spanner Nut
PartSelect #: PS11738884
Manufacturer #: WP21366
Right hand threaded nut holds the tub in place in direct drive, top loading washing machines. To remove the spanner nut you will need a spanner wrench.
$10.83
In Stock
Washer Transmission Stem Seal
PartSelect #: PS11746747
Manufacturer #: WP8577376
Sold individually.
$11.10
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11743744
Manufacturer #: WP681414
This screw is sold individually.
$7.76
In Stock
Water Pressure Hose - Cut-to-Fit
PartSelect #: PS11741846
Manufacturer #: WP353244
This is the hose that tells your appliance if your tub is at the desired water level.
$62.13
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 1106004701
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Common Symptoms of the 1106004701
[Viewing 3 of 3]Leaking
Fixed by
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Will not agitate
Fixed by
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Lid or door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
door switch actuator spring broken
-unplugged appliance
-removed lint trap
-removed 2 lint trap shute screws with phillips screwdriver
-popped open top of appliance with standard screwdriver by applying pressure at each front corner so that it could be tilted up to access actuator switch on right side of door
-removed 2 actuator switch screws, located o ... Read more n upper right side of laundry door, with phillips screwdriver (screws are accessed from outside of door frame not through appliance top).
-discarded broken actuator spring (accessed from open appliance top)
-replaced new actuator spring
-replaced 2 actuator switch screws
-closed top
-replaced 2 lint trap shute screws
-replaced lint trap
-plugged in appliance
-tested for operation
-kissed by happy wife
-removed lint trap
-removed 2 lint trap shute screws with phillips screwdriver
-popped open top of appliance with standard screwdriver by applying pressure at each front corner so that it could be tilted up to access actuator switch on right side of door
-removed 2 actuator switch screws, located o ... Read more n upper right side of laundry door, with phillips screwdriver (screws are accessed from outside of door frame not through appliance top).
-discarded broken actuator spring (accessed from open appliance top)
-replaced new actuator spring
-replaced 2 actuator switch screws
-closed top
-replaced 2 lint trap shute screws
-replaced lint trap
-plugged in appliance
-tested for operation
-kissed by happy wife
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Paul from Vero Beach, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
92 of 100 people
found this instruction helpful.
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leaking from tub
First I turned off the water and unplugged the washer from the outlet. I took the two screws off the console and turned it up to undo the clips that hold the cabinet to the back. I took out the 2 phillips screws at the top corners of the back. I was then able to pull cabinet off and not have to remove the console, but carefully slid it t
... Read more
o the side, as ther wires were still attached.
Pried off agitator cap & reached into agitator to pry out another cap to access 7/16 bolt. Checked over the agitator parts for wear (dogs) Took agitator, top outer (white) and inner (brown) tub rings off.
Sprayed lots of liqid wrench around spanner nut and drive block and gave it time to work. Used spanner tool to get spanner nut off. Hard work. Pounded and pounded and pounded and pounded with hammer. It gave a tiny bit. Then I got an idea: I pounded it back the other way, as you would to tighten. This helped. I then pounded back the other way and did this again. It worked amazingly well.
Got to drive block and it was rusted out along the bottom and also hard to get off. The diagram showed a "lock" (horseshoe shaped thing) on top of it, but mine was all in one piece but I couldn't tell that. I sprayed and pryed and pounded from the bottom and it split in half. It needed to be replaced anyway.
The inner tub was also hard to get out and I used some dish liquid. I pushed down, (using the rags here, the edges can cut you). I twisted, I pulled. I pushed, I pulled, I cussed, and begged. I then went to bed and then next day I pushed backwards and forwards and side to side & finally it came off. Then I undid the brackets on the bottom of the outer tub along the bottom and disconnected the clear hose in back. When loosening the black hose clamp in front to the pump, water started to come out of the hose so I grabbed a cool whip container to catch it. It smelled yucky. Once I had the outer tub off I put the new seal in, using some plumber's grease to help get ithe tub over the shaft..Then I hooked up the hoses & brackets on the bottom of the outer tub. I cleaned out the outer tub, as there was crud in the bottom. Then I poured about 5 gallons of water in it to see if the seal was set in right. Make sure the drain hose hasn't fallen out! (You can leave this water in the tub, you'll find out why) I cleaned up the rust on tube of the inner tub with steel wool and inspected everything else. Something didn't look quite right about the outer shaft that goes around the spin tube. It looked like something should go there. I discovered there SHOULD have been a seal there but one was never put in. So I put one in. I used a little grease to help put the new drive block on, and tightened the spanner nut with the spanner wrench. I put everything else back on EXCEPT for the cabinet-with the console attached. Ha Ha All the other directions I read wrote to take the console off first. If I had done that I wouldn't have been able to do the most important part of the job: testing the result. I finished filling the tub to the lowest water level to watch it go thru it's cycles and checked for leaks. If the console was "flopped over" the back how can you check? (I don't play with wiring)
I turned off the water & unplugged the washer and slid the cabinet on.. I tipped the console back to access the large gold squiggly brackets that hold the cabinet to the back and reattached them to the back, by removing them, hooking them onto the back, and snapping them into place. I double-DOUBLE checked to see if anything had come loose, then slid the console first on top of the back and put the two screws back in. The screws on my machine are not covered up by the end caps, but they are at a wierd angle, so I held the console up slighly and started the screws first. As they tightened down the console slid into the holes on the cabinet.
There is a small sppliance shop in my town & the guy loaned me the spanner wrench. It was very nice of him.I guess I will have to give his & his famil
Pried off agitator cap & reached into agitator to pry out another cap to access 7/16 bolt. Checked over the agitator parts for wear (dogs) Took agitator, top outer (white) and inner (brown) tub rings off.
Sprayed lots of liqid wrench around spanner nut and drive block and gave it time to work. Used spanner tool to get spanner nut off. Hard work. Pounded and pounded and pounded and pounded with hammer. It gave a tiny bit. Then I got an idea: I pounded it back the other way, as you would to tighten. This helped. I then pounded back the other way and did this again. It worked amazingly well.
Got to drive block and it was rusted out along the bottom and also hard to get off. The diagram showed a "lock" (horseshoe shaped thing) on top of it, but mine was all in one piece but I couldn't tell that. I sprayed and pryed and pounded from the bottom and it split in half. It needed to be replaced anyway.
The inner tub was also hard to get out and I used some dish liquid. I pushed down, (using the rags here, the edges can cut you). I twisted, I pulled. I pushed, I pulled, I cussed, and begged. I then went to bed and then next day I pushed backwards and forwards and side to side & finally it came off. Then I undid the brackets on the bottom of the outer tub along the bottom and disconnected the clear hose in back. When loosening the black hose clamp in front to the pump, water started to come out of the hose so I grabbed a cool whip container to catch it. It smelled yucky. Once I had the outer tub off I put the new seal in, using some plumber's grease to help get ithe tub over the shaft..Then I hooked up the hoses & brackets on the bottom of the outer tub. I cleaned out the outer tub, as there was crud in the bottom. Then I poured about 5 gallons of water in it to see if the seal was set in right. Make sure the drain hose hasn't fallen out! (You can leave this water in the tub, you'll find out why) I cleaned up the rust on tube of the inner tub with steel wool and inspected everything else. Something didn't look quite right about the outer shaft that goes around the spin tube. It looked like something should go there. I discovered there SHOULD have been a seal there but one was never put in. So I put one in. I used a little grease to help put the new drive block on, and tightened the spanner nut with the spanner wrench. I put everything else back on EXCEPT for the cabinet-with the console attached. Ha Ha All the other directions I read wrote to take the console off first. If I had done that I wouldn't have been able to do the most important part of the job: testing the result. I finished filling the tub to the lowest water level to watch it go thru it's cycles and checked for leaks. If the console was "flopped over" the back how can you check? (I don't play with wiring)
I turned off the water & unplugged the washer and slid the cabinet on.. I tipped the console back to access the large gold squiggly brackets that hold the cabinet to the back and reattached them to the back, by removing them, hooking them onto the back, and snapping them into place. I double-DOUBLE checked to see if anything had come loose, then slid the console first on top of the back and put the two screws back in. The screws on my machine are not covered up by the end caps, but they are at a wierd angle, so I held the console up slighly and started the screws first. As they tightened down the console slid into the holes on the cabinet.
There is a small sppliance shop in my town & the guy loaned me the spanner wrench. It was very nice of him.I guess I will have to give his & his famil
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Debra from Milton - Freewater, OR
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
37 of 45 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thank you for voting!
The Dryer would not start
First and most important was to unplug the unit.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the lint screen shoot to the top cover and then simply popped the top of the machine open using 2 screw drivers and
gently prying it up. I raised the top cover about 8 inches and supported it with a block of wood.
I opened the front loading do ... Read more or and removed the 2 screws that hold the door actuator switch while holding the switch on the inside so that nothing would fall down into no mans land. Once the switch was loose I pulled it into view and could see that the actuator spring was broken. I used the search at the Part Select Web site and found the placement part very easy. I was amazed that the part was shipped and delivered to my house the very next day. The actuator spring simply snaps into place and I assembled it in the reverse order of removal, I removed the block of wood and snapped the top back into location and reinstalled the 2 screws for the lint screen shoot . I plugged the dryer in and it work perfect. I can't say enough about how well the experiance with Parts Select went, I will recommend them to others.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the lint screen shoot to the top cover and then simply popped the top of the machine open using 2 screw drivers and
gently prying it up. I raised the top cover about 8 inches and supported it with a block of wood.
I opened the front loading do ... Read more or and removed the 2 screws that hold the door actuator switch while holding the switch on the inside so that nothing would fall down into no mans land. Once the switch was loose I pulled it into view and could see that the actuator spring was broken. I used the search at the Part Select Web site and found the placement part very easy. I was amazed that the part was shipped and delivered to my house the very next day. The actuator spring simply snaps into place and I assembled it in the reverse order of removal, I removed the block of wood and snapped the top back into location and reinstalled the 2 screws for the lint screen shoot . I plugged the dryer in and it work perfect. I can't say enough about how well the experiance with Parts Select went, I will recommend them to others.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Dennis from Redondo Beach, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
17 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!