Models > 1105908000

1105908000 Kenmore Dryer - Overview

Sections of the 1105908000

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Thrust Washer – Part Number: WP233520
Thrust Washer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS11740482
Manufacturer #: WP233520
This genuine OEM washer has a 3/4 inch outside diameter. This thrust washer can be used on most makes and models of dryers. A complete list of compatible dryers is available below. The washer is found...
$7.95
  In Stock
Lid Switch – Part Number: W10820036
Lid Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
PartSelect #: PS11723153
Manufacturer #: W10820036
This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.
$23.69
  In Stock
Front Top Lock – Part Number: WP18776
Front Top Lock
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11738705
Manufacturer #: WP18776
This part is used to secure the top panel to the cabinet. Sold individually.
$13.19
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP681414
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11743744
Manufacturer #: WP681414
This screw is sold individually.
$7.76
  In Stock
Clamp-Motor – Part Number: WP660658
Clamp-Motor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS11743369
Manufacturer #: WP660658
This clamp is used to secure the drive motor.
$11.13
  In Stock
SEAL-DOOR – Part Number: W11613302
SEAL-DOOR
PartSelect #: PS16744945
Manufacturer #: W11613302
Adhesive sold separately.
$24.15
  In Stock
High Limit Thermostat – Part Number: WP696818
High Limit Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11743802
Manufacturer #: WP696818
L200-40F
$51.03
  On Order
Plug, Top To Cabinet – Part Number: WP660975
Plug, Top To Cabinet
PartSelect #: PS11743370
Manufacturer #: WP660975
$7.59
  In Stock
Nut – Part Number: WP90406
Nut
PartSelect #: PS11746839
Manufacturer #: WP90406
$7.59
  In Stock
Wire Harness Clip – Part Number: WP98997
Wire Harness Clip
PartSelect #: PS11747591
Manufacturer #: WP98997
Sold individually.
$9.77
  Special Order
FEET-LVLNG – Part Number: WP233550
FEET-LVLNG
PartSelect #: PS11740483
Manufacturer #: WP233550
$9.32
  Special Order
CLIP – Part Number: 313660
CLIP
PartSelect #: PS336513
Manufacturer #: 313660
$7.85
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for 1105908000

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Common Symptoms of the 1105908000

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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Will not agitate
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Burning smell
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Won’t Start
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Spins slowly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
Parts Used:
Lid Switch
  • Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
31 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
Parts Used:
Lid Switch
  • Glen from Plano, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
22 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer will agitate, but won't spin
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
Parts Used:
Lid Switch
  • Mandie from Lewisville, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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