11042822201 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

(1) First I unpluged the washer then I removed the water from the tube with a water vac.(2) Then I removed the three (3) screws that holds the front panel, using a Torx T-20 socket. ( this is a front load washer ). The panel is below the loading door.
(3) I packed towels under the washer.
(4) I slowly removed the cleanout in the front of the pump, using the water vac to catch the water as it leaked out.
(5) I removed the wiring to the motor.
(6) I removed the screw that holds the pump in place with a Torx T-20 socket.
(7) I pulled the pump forward so the clamps that hold the drain hose and discharge hose could be removed using the hose clamp pliers. ( they come off much easier then they go back on ).
(8) I tested the pump and found it would run but was making a lot of noise and running slow.
(9) To reinstall start with number (7) and work backwards to number (1) skipping (3) and (4).
Don Kramer
Wichita, Kansas

1. remove the three screws from the top backside of the top panel
2. push the top panel to the rear 1/8 to 1/4 inch
3. lift/rotate top panel from rear to front, set aside.
4. remove the three wire connectors from latch.
5. use #15 Torx to remove the three screws from the latch.
6. remove and replace part using top opening.
7. reverse order to finish.

Pulled out machine...removed top panel..unscrewed existing valve and removed it...then reversed the whole process with the new valve..it was very easy to do and worked perfectly...no more water in tub!

I first removed the back panel held on by about 10 screws. I removed the drive belt from the pulley, then removed the lock nut securing the pulley to the drum & removed the pulley. Attached the new pulley to the drum, tightened on the lock nut, attached the new belt & ran a spin cycle. When that went OK I replaced the back panel & the washer was back in service.

First, unplug the power cord to avoid electric shock!

Then:
1. Open the drawers in the sub-base, remove the screws on the left and right side rails, and remove the drawer.

2. Remove the three torx head screws along the bottom of the front cabinet cover and remove the cover.

NOTE: There are sharp metal edges exposed inside of the cabinet. A heavy long sleeve shirt and gloves are recomended when working in this area to prevent injury.


3. With a pair of pliers, grip the end of the front right shock absorber near the attachment point and rotate counter-clockwise. Repeat procedure at other end of shock absorber. (note: this may destroy the plastic end of the shock absorber, but you're going to replace it with a new one anyway.)

4. With the front shock absorber out of the way, you can now reach the rear shock absorber on the same side and repeat the removal procedure. (note: Be sure to take note of which end of the shock absorber is up and which end is down. This will be important when installing the new ones.)

5. Install the new rear shock absorber by first inserting the lower end into the slot in the base plate and rotating it 1/4 turn clockwise by hand. it should snap into place easily. Then insert the upper end into the plastic drum attachment point and rotate it 1/4 turn clockwise.

6. Install the new front shock absorber by the same procedure, then procede to the left side shock absorbers using steps 3, 4, & 5.

Note: While the cabinet is open, now is a good time to clean out the pump strainer located front and center.

7. Re-install the front cabinet cover using the three torx head screws. (note: the machine will not operate without the cabinet cover in place.)

8. Adjust the leveling legs so that the machine is level and each leg supports an equal amount of the machine's weight.

9. Reinstall the sub-base drawer and plug in the power cord.

First I removed the screws and the plastic slide clips to remove the back plate. I then went to the lower right of the washer and found the motor control unit. It has about four plus going into it. The front inside mount of the control unit has a clip on it that must be pushed so you can pull the unit free of the bottom of the machine. Once the control unit was free I flipped open the plug cover with a screwdriver which just snaps over the plugs. I then removed the plugs from the unit carefully so I didn't break them. It was a tight work space and I had to pop out some of the clips that hold the wire harness in place to get some slack in the wires. I then pushed up on the washing drum which gave me enough room to slide to old unit out and get the new one in. Then just reconnect the plugs, plug cover, snap the unit back into place, refit and wire harness clips that where removed, and place the back panel of the machine back on. I tested mine before putting the back panel on and it completely solved the problem. Note that there are 2 control units in this machine 1. motor control and 2. the central control located behind the display. I was told it could have been either one of them, but after some research I chose the motor control unit since it seemed to be a problem with the tachometer sensor which is read through the motor control unit.

The clips that hold the tub halves together were difficult to reinstall. I realized once I got it apart that the damage was probably a secondary condition. The primary problem was that the drum was off center due to a failing bearing. It is only sold with the rear tub assembly. $475.Live and learn. My new LG washer is pretty slick though.

I bought a new door lock for 132 dollars (item number PS2037196).

Ultimately you have to get to the inside of the machine where the door lock is located in order to see if you will need this door lock that I bought.

DISCONNECT POWER FROM MACHINE.

First take off the top by taking off the 2 screws on the back of the machine.

Second take off the control panel, I believe there are about 5 or 6 screws for that.
(there's also a screw when you open up the detergent compartment on the bottom left- also, a lever must be pushed in order for the compartment to come off- it MUST be taken off).

Third unscrew the top of the front white plate.. there should be a 5 or 6 screws for that.
You don't need to take off the entire front plate.

Finally unscrew 3 screws that hold the door lock in place .. make sure your hands is in the machine- the back of door lock to catch the lock when you're on the last screw.

Gently take out the door lock from the side with the cables attached by holding the white metal door open (it bends).

Try to pull on the bottom of the door lock (its a manual release). If it doesn't release you need to buy a new door lock like I did... if it does release then you don't need a door lock and just reassemble.
(Note: You can also try plugging in the machine and THEN pulling down on the manual release. When I tried this the door lock just vibrated and nothing happened so I bought a new door lock.)

If you have the new door lock continue here:

Take out all 3 cables on the old door lock by pressing on the corresponding clips.

Attach the new door lock with the correct cables. Assemble machine back together.

Thats it.

Don't know how they managed to get out of the washer tub, but we found a quarter, dime and penny in the "lint" filter (called the "Cap" in the PartSelect details). The penny managed to get into the impeller and took out 3 1/2 of the 4 impeller blades.

Replacement is very simple, about a 15-20 minute job Be sure the machine is unplugged for safety.Remove the three (3) screws holding the lower front panel and remove the panel. The pump assembly is a white unit about the middle of the opening (the original pump itself was black, the new one is white). Unscrewing the large cap will allow any residual water to drain out (we used a wet/dry shop vac to get most of the water out of the tub first). Following the wires going to the pump, there is a cover over the wiring connector that easily pops up and the connector can be pulled out. Directly below the unit is a screw with a Torx head that has to be removed, then two (2) hoses held with compression hose clamps that need to be removed with pliers. The unit will slide out of the base of the washer. There is a wiring harness in front of this assembly that can be popped loose on one side or the other to get the unit out.

Reversing the steps gets everything back in place.

NOTE: A notice came with my new pump stating that a tab needed to be removed on the wiring connector. It is easily removed by hand.

By the way - that was the most expensive penny I've ever owned! Pockets in jeans are now required to be turned out in our house before they are allowed in the washer!

1. Removed the 4 screws across the top of the back of the washer which hold on the washer top.
2. slightly lift the backside of the washer top and pull/ slide to the back to remove. Top will unlatch and and lift off.
3.Remove the star screw that attaches the water valve to the back of the washer.
4. Remove hose clamp and 4 wire clips from water vale assembly and replaced with new valve.
5. Reverse order to reassemble.

Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.

Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.

How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned. That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.

The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.

While looking at the new baffle it became evedent that I would need to remove the top of the unit to secure the new baffle to the drum. This was easly done by removing the top of the unit. I removed the three screws from the top back of the unit. Once the top was off I located the inlet tube for the detergent to the drum. I was able to spin the drum and locate the underside of the baffle by looking through the hole where the tube had been attached . I then installed the baffle and snapped it in place. I turned the drum to locate the hole again and installed the screw that was supplied with the new baffle. I then returned the tube back to the location it had orginally been installed. I returned the top and reinstalled the screws to the back of the unit. Whrilpool wanted to replace the entire drum at a cost of $480.00 for the part alone. This is much more cost effective with just a small bit of work. I have contacted Whrilpool for the part number and they would only tell me that I needed a whole drum. I was contacted by a rep from Whrilpool and she told me that I was wrong I could not have done this without replacing the whole drum. My wife will tell all who ask that this unit is working wonderfully.

Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Turn off both hot an cold water supply valves. Unscrew both hot and cold supply hoses from rear of washer making note of which inlet they came off of. Pull washer out to access screws to remove top cover and water inlet valve. Remove top cover unscrewing 3 torx screws on the rear of the washer. Unplug the 4 wires wires from water inlet valve - make sure you remember which pairs go to which solenoid. Remove 1 phillips head screw that secures the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Remove water inlet valve. With a pair of pliers loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the inlet valve. Take the new water inlet valve and loosen hose clamp with pliers and push the hose onto the barbed fitting as far as it will go. Make sure hose clamp is over barbed fitting securing the hose. Attach both pairs of wires to the solenoids in the same position that you removed them. Position water inlet valve into place and secure with phillips screw. The part that I received did not quite line up with the hole on the rear of my washer so I had to elongate the existing hole on the rear of the washer with a drill so I could secure the water inlet valve as designed. Screw on both water supply lines making sure the hot and cold are screwed back on to the right inlets. Turn both water supply valves on and test looking for leaks. Secure the top cover back on with the 3 torx screws and push washer back into place. Viola! Ready for the next load of wash.