11026942502 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Pop cap off top of agitator. remove bolt that holds down agitator,which lets you remove the top of agitator that holds the directional cogs. remove top install cogs, make sure they are turned in right direction, and re install top of agitator.

your instructions in the video were excellent, but the shaft of the motor was too corroded to reuse.

as in video

it went very fast after watching the how to fix video

After about 4-5 years, the agitator cogs or "dogs" will wear out and cause the agitator to stop working-Simply pop the cap off of the top of the agitator with your hands by pulling upwards, remove the plastic cap at the bottom of the agitator-there are 2 plastic ears that you pull up on also with your hand, exposing a 1/2 locking nut. Use a socket and extention to unscrew the nut. Grab the bottom of the agitator with both hands and pull sharply upwards removing the entire assembly. Flip the assembly over to expose the four cogs. Replace with new, and reverse the procedure to reinstall the agitator

Determined based on some Internet searches that the part that we needed was the motor coupling; washer would not spin or agitate. Once I figured out how to removed the cover (by the way, one of the guys at an appliance store told me how to do it), and reviewing the video on your website, I removed the two screws and four clips, dropped the motor, inserted the parts and put it back together - all in about 15 or 20 minutes. It was easy and clean and the washer worked again. Hopefully go for another 5-10 years. Thanks.

Short solution: Machine acted unbalanced no matter how it was loaded and replacing all of the springs seems to have fixed the problem. Long solution: The washing machine was acting unbalanced no matter how I loaded the washer so I removed the cover to see if there was anything obvious (there wasn't). After looking around online I found someone with a similar issue who replaced the suspension springs with success. So I replaced the suspension springs AND the counter balance spring but before I swapped them I did a test to see if the old springs were worn. The test was hanging a 10lb weight from each spring and measuring the stretch of the springs to figure out the "new" vs "old" K values. The results showed that the old and new suspension springs had about the same K values but that the old counter balance spring had lost roughly 50% of its spring constant compared to the new counter balance spring. So replacing one of the springs did show a measurable gain in spring strength and the issue has been resolved thus far (12 loads of laundry without issue). I would still replace all of the springs if I was doing it again because it worked for cheap. Parts arrived 4 days after ordering them and they are genuine Whirlpool parts.

Remove protective cover and inner seal with gasket from top of agitator. Use socket set with extension to reach bolt in bottom of agitator and loosen bolt. Remove assembly from washer. Take out interior disk and remove broken agitator directional cogs. Replace with new directional cogs. Reassemble parts in reverse order. Easy Peasy,took about 5 minutes.

Popped top cap off agitator, removed bolt, removed top agitator, replaced directional cogs, reinstalled top agitator, bolt, cap. This machine is 43 years young, it's happy again.

Used pliers to help disconnect hoses, unplugged power cord, laid washer on its back, unsnapped two clips holding pump to the motor, lifted pump off, and replaced it.

I replaced 3 suspension springs, 3 tub wear pads and 1 leveling spring (for less than $35 delivered). The springs are all very accessible once you remove the cabinet. The wear pads are also easy to get to - just tilt the tube up a little on each of the 3 corners and pull the old pads out. Before the repair, the washer shook, banged and walked so much that I thought it surely was time to get a new one. After the repair, the washer worked like new (even though it's 11 years old). I watched a short youtube video about removing the cabinet, which is very easy once you see what to do. I searched on something like "whirlpool washer repair youtube" and got multiple good videos. This repair was well worth the effort.

Popped agitator cap. Used ratchet to remove screw. Pulled off base unit. Inserted cogs into slots after removing worn and or broken cogs. Reinstalled......done!

I took the Agitator Cap Barrier out of the Top part of the agitator and than screw that holds the 2 parts together. I removed the part that holds the Cogs. I replace the Directional Cogs (dogs) into the holder, replaced the holder into the top agitator, replace the screw, put the new Agitator Cap Barrier in and it now works as good as new!! It took me 3 minutes tops!

After watching the video and reading some of the instructions posted on Parts Select I disconnected the power cord, shut off and disconnected the water lines before laying the washer down on its "back" with help of a dolly.(IF you don’t own a dolly this can still be done without one but I recommend having a friend help you depending on your age and health) Once I had the washer laid down it became apparent to me that I didn’t need to take the whole "cover" off but could do the repair from the bottom of the machine. Following the instructions I first removed the hose clamps from the hose running from the pump to the tub and the hose that runs to the back of the machine where the drain to the wall attaches. I then "popped" the two clips off the pump as described in the video and after removing the pump I turned the clips to the side and removed them as well. At this point I removed the clamp from the "pump to tub" hose on the tub side and then removed the hose. I followed this up by removing the entire hose assembly that the "pump to drain hose" hose attaches too. Once you've seen this "assembly" you'll understand what I mean. Anyway, once that was done and the new parts had arrived (parts came quickly I placed my order on Thru evening and received them on Tues with the Labor Day weekend in-between) Install was as simply as removal, I laid the machine down using the dolly and then simply installed everything starting with "pump to drain hose assembly" then the "tub to pump hose" then the pump itself and finally both hoses to the pump. The "pump to tub" hose came with two new clamps however they are the type of hose clamps requiring the use of a screw drive to tighten not the original type it had on it that you just squeeze with pliers. I used the new ones that came in the package. The other hose didn’t come with a clamp and only has one where it connects to the pump, so I reused the original. I would suggest that you also check or just replace the drain line that runs from the machine to the wall at the same time as the rest of this repair as I did not and the 1st time I ran the machine that hose sprung a leak.

After removing the outer shell of the machine, and disconnecting the supply hoses, I leaned the machine on it's back and disconnected the drain line. Then, it was simply a matter of removing and replacing the damaged pump with the new one. The pump is held in place by two easily removable clips. The hardest part of the whole process was making sure the shaft from the motor lines up with the corresponding hole on the pump.