11026912691 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

As best described in the clutch DIYs, removed the enclosure, unclipped the water pump, motor and elec. harness to check the coupling. The bushing separated from the plastic fingers which caused the squealing. Checked the gearbox and it turned for a limited amount before jamming. Ordered new gearcase and clutch (since it was over 10 yrs. old.), and a coupling. (Gearcase comes with half a coupling, so check if req'd for motor shaft.)
For ease of removing and re-installing the motor it is best the machine lays on its back. This way the grommets and coupling can be easily aligned on the face-plate without having to manually support the weight of the motor. In the tub, unsnap two agitator caps. The inner one has no tabs to break so pry and pull on the "ears". Use 7/16" socket wrench with extension to unscrew the bolt holding agitator to gear shaft end. Assuming the motor and face-plate are still off, unscrew the three screws holding the gearcase in place and slide it out. Before installing the new clutch onto the new gear shaft, slide the plastic thrust spacer? (in kit but not shown in any instructions) down the shaft, observing which is the correct side. Check for correct clutch spring, as per instructions. Slide clutch, open side up, down the shaft. Instal wire retainer (this can be tricky) and circlip. if the brake assembly slid down while sliding out the gear shaft, squeeze its spring with a pipe wrench and push it back up (with rubber mallet). The clutch kit comes with a plastic pawl? which mounts under the brake and mates with the clutch. If the locating pins for the old part are broken off, drill them out of their holes so the new part fits snug. Insert the gear shaft up the brake sleeve into the agitator so their splines mate. Screw gear case to its mounts, agitator to shaft end (not too tight here) and snap on caps. Screw on face-plate, replace coupling on motor shaft (if req'd.), set motor on face-plate, aligning the coupling and checking the grommets fit in their holes. Instal motor holding clips (with screws), mount water pump with its holding clips, and wire harnesses. Stand up machine and replace enclosure, back panel and hoses.
Replacing the gearcase was easy. Because of space limitations, removing and replacing the enclosure, etc. was a b**** that took most of my time. And watch the lid doesn't fall on your fingers!

Removed the back panel and cabinet. Removed the pump and separated the gear box and motor. Replaced coupler, reassembled. Lid switch removed/replaced very easy, as was lid screw.

First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on, line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!

I stripped the machine down and replaced the tub seal and drain hose.

Tip the machine against the wall. Remove two screws that hold the motor clips in place. Pull the motor off the frame. Pry the coupling off the motor and the gearbox, install the new coupling and reistall the motor.

Once I supported the washer to get access from the bottom, I disconnected the two hose clamps with my pliers, pulled the hoses off (make sure you have a towel handy to catch the excess water), pop the two retaining clips holding the pump to the motor, replace pump and hook everything back up. Couldn't be any easier. PartSelect.com is AWESOME.

First I unpluged the electric plug, disconnected the hoses and laid the washer on it's side for easy access. I then removed the motor wiring harness and the pump hoses. I then supported the drum with wood blocks and then removed the mortor mounting straps. Pulled the notor out and removed the old coupling. After installing the new coupling I reinstalled every thing in reverse order.

took the frame off washer was full of water drained as much as i could took washer frame off leaned washer back got water every where cleaned up water put on new parts put back together works fine now hardest part was getting washer cover back on frame

First I turned washer on its side. I removed clamps on hoses that connect to water pump.Then I removed hoses and clips that hold water pump. I moved water pump to side and removed clip retaining screws. Took screwdriver and pryed clips from motor. Removed motor. Pryed old coupler off motor then pryed old coupler off transmission. Took a drift and hammer and drove coupler half on motor then drove other half on transmission. Put rubber coupler middle on transmission coupler. Installed motor on transmission, put clips back on motor and retaining screws. Installed water pump and retaining clips. Put hoses back on water pump.
You cant see clip retaining screws you have to feel around for them.

Removed control panel screws (2) pulled up CP and pulled back washer case and removed old switch, replaced with new switch, added a rubber washer on each screw to help shock of lid slamming down, re assembled replaced hoses and tested for leaks. Easy
Thanks for the site and the parts

removed one bolt in center of agitator, removed plastic cog holder and dropped in 4 new cogs. Very easy repair.

Removed top cover cap, used socket and extension to remove agitator hold down bolt, removed agitator from machine. used screw driver to release locking tabs on center cone section to access location in which to fit the cogs. the cogs have a round end which fits into a slot which holds the cogs in position,snapped center cone back into place, put agitator back into washer, replaced hold down bolt,replaced cover cap and we were back in business.

I used a 1/4 inch ratchet with an extension and a 7/16 inch socket. Removing that bolt was easy. The entire agitator assembly came off. Getting the upper agitator to come off (to separate it from the bottom agitator) was the hard part.

I have an older washer, so mine was different from the video found on this site, but I do remember the guy saying that there were some tabs you may need to "remove".

So looking down from the top, you can see that there are two tabs that stand up vertically. These are holding the upper agitator locked to the lower agitator. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and a phillips screwdriver and a hammer to break off these tabs so that they would be out of the way and allow the upper agitator to be removed, so that I could get to the cogs to replace them. (Don't worry about busting these tabs off because the bolt you initially removed holds it all together in the washer.) After taking those tabs off, replacing the cogs and re-assembling everything was easy. Those tabs were a bit stubborn though. Overall, worked great. I'm glad I got that fixed. The washer works like a champ now and I can do large loads again.

Removed agitator cap, removed bolt holding agitator to post, replaced cogs in holder. The teeth on cogs had worn off over time, I had checked it out previous to ordering parts and knew it only needed the new cogs. 20 yr old machine and after repair still works like new. Shipping was super fast 2 days.

First confirmed it wasn't the lid switch by jumping. Then confirmed by taking off washer cover that the transmission was leaking and spraying oil as evidenced by yellow oil film on the inside of the washer cover. The leaking oil caused the clutch assembly to slip and wear. Replaced both the clutch assembly and the transmission upper two seals.

To repair, after taking the washer cover off removed the agitator holding screw. Then remove two clips holding water pump. Unconnect the motor wires and remove two clips holding motor in place. Tilte washer back leaning up on a chair and remove 3 bolts holding transmission assy in place. Slid out the transmission/ shaft from machine.
I rebuilt the transmission by separating the case on bench and replacing two seals. To do this you first need to remove clutch assembly from the trans agitator shaft. The clutch is held on by a washer and two spring clips. You need to take note of the orientation of the parts for proper reassembly. The difficult part was separating the cover of the transmission from the base . After removal of the cover screws using a putty knife and hammer I gently tapped all around to separate the halves. The I replaced the two upper seals, one one the cover and one in the output shaft. The second difficult part that requires some skill is removing the seal from the transmission cover. I used a hair dryer to heat up the aluminum cover to ease removal of the seal. After replacement of the seals I resealed the cover onto the base using automotive silicone gasket maker. Note; I kept the transmission level during this repair so that I did not need to drain oil. After keeping the transmission level and allowing 24 hours for the silicon to cure I assembled the new clutch assembly and clips in reverse order on transmission shaft. Then reassembled the transmission, motor and pump in reverse order. Ran machine with full load of towels. Spin problem fixed and transmission is still leak free a week later.