11025294501 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

had to take the entire shell off the washer and then it was 2 simple clamps.

Watched the video on this sight. Fallowed instructions in video and everything went very smooth.

Unplugged, removed water supply hoses, removed drain hose from washer, laid whole washer on it`s back without removing the cabinet, popped clips off the water pump and laid to side, took two screws out of clips that hold motor on and popped them off with a screw driver, unplugged wiring harness and another single wire on motor and then lifted motor off. Then pried the plastic pieces of the coupling off the the motor and transmission shaft. Cleaned debris off motor and washer, replaced plastic piece to the transmission and set rubber part on plastic. Then replaced new plastic piece on motor and set motor back into bracket and put all parts back on in reverse order. I make it sound hard but was a easy job.

disconnected the power, the water supply hoses and took the drain hose out of the wall. Tilted the washer back, undid the 2 clip,took the pliers slid the clamps back. Installed new pump. Put everything back. Done.

Our washing machine "squealed" as it filled. Only the hot water did it, the cold water did not. The hot water came in real slowly, and the machine made a squealing noice and the hose going into the fill valve would vibrate. When I ordered the part, on my order confirmation email there was a link to a video showing how to replace the fill valve. It literally took my less than 30 minutes to replace the part. The only thing that was different on my machine was the screws holding the controls on. Mine were hidden under a plastic cover on the front that I had to snap off. Other than that slight difference in screw location, everything in the video matched up perfect with my machine. With the new fill valve the machine fills in 1/2 the time. We hadn't really noticed how slow it was filling until the squealing noise started. After changing the valve, the difference in fill rate was very apparent. I'm sure the 15 year old valve was full of sediment and minerals. Works like new now.

I followed the video on replacing the direct drive coupling. It was easy to follow and gave step by step instructions for screw locations, fastener and part removal and installation.

The spin cycle was super slow leaving clothes soaking wet at the end of a full wash cycle. Ordered a clutch repair kit, watched the how to video that was e-mailed to me with my order while I did the repair and got it done in about 45 minutes. This was my first true appliance repair outside of maybe a busted fuse or replacing the heating element in a stove. Never thought taking the motor, transmission and clutch out of the washer and putting all back together would be so very simple. Meanwhile my wife is pissed because she thought she might be able to go get a brand spankin new washer...until I fixed the old one. Thanks for saving me some dough PartSelect.

This is a not for men only job. The worst part was taking the flimsy, rusty-on-the-inside case on and off. If you've never done it before, I would recommend photographing each section that you take apart so you can more easily see how it goes back together. The video is a great help for general ideas, but unless your model is exactly like that one there may be other parts. Wiggling the clamps off the hoses wasn't easy as the wrench kept slipping of the clamp ends. Finally I figured out that a wrench that clamps on and stays put was the right answer. Replacing the pump was easy--just like in the video. Now I have a secondary problem: the water now gushes out of the standpipe when the water exits the tub. I think the pump is better than the last one even before it broke, so the water is coming out too fast. I found a little part that makes the exit hole on the drain hose a lot smaller, plus I covered it with a stocking in case the part came flying off. Last time I tested it only about a cup of water came out of the pipe. I think there may be air in the pipe, so I have some things to try for that but at least I feel like I'm going in the right direction. This site is great--I already paid for one professional repair and the washer isn't worth another one but I'd like to keep it running for a few more months anyway.

I watched the video on the Partselect website. Appled the same technique for my machine and the repair was just as easy. Unplugged the washer, removed two screws from the top panel, flipped it up and removed the two brackets that hold the cabinet in place. Removed the cabinet, the pump is right in front held on by two clamps. Removed the clamps, unhooked the hoses, put the new pump in attached the hoses and the clamps. I then put the cabinet back together and the repair was complete, wash machine is running again with no leaks.

I watched the video on the website on how to repair this and followed it. The repair went quickly. I spent more time moving the washer in and out of the location it was in than the time it took to repair.

Remove the outer washing machine housing. Close-up inspection located the leak source. The water pump was removed by popping off the upper and lower metal brackets, then removing it from the two rubber hoses with their pinch clamps. Ordering a new part was easy on your web site, and it arrived in 2 days! I reversed the process, with the smaller hose's pinch clamp hard to manage with simple pliers, but doable with persistence. I LOVE my 23 yr old whirlpool washer, and don't want a newer model, so thanks for making repairs doable for an old lady!

Unscrew the screws from the back of the control panel and lift the panel back. The lid switch is on the top left side of the washer. I unscrewed the ground wire, lift the lid switch out and replaced it. Then I reversed the whole process to put it all back. All being three srews and the lid switch. There was no need to remove anything else. It could not have been any easier.

I pulled the dispenser cap off the top of the agitator, then removed the water tight cap from inside, then used a socket and extension to remove the bolt and the top portion of the agitator. The cogs and holder easily came out of the agitator, then the black hold down ring was slipped away from the cogs and the cogs then easily were removed and replace with the new ones. The black hold down ring was then slipped back into place to hold the cogs in and the agitator was reassembled. Works perfectly now and only cost $8.95 and three days for shipping.

I watched the online video and followed the instructions,The only problem I had was getting the pump off the drive shaft it had rust built up,but it worked fine and was shipped as promised

I simply watched the video that was on YouTube for this site. It was dead on with my washer and super easy to do. The step by step was just awesome and easy to follow. The repair took just over an hour and I even cleaned the entire inside of this 12 year old washer which was pretty cruddy. The washer now spins great and works like new again. All for about $50. Thanks.