Models > 11024872300 > Instructions

11024872300 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11024872300 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11024872300
76-90 of 1,271
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spin cycle was not working / poor

  • Customer: Craig from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive assembly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.

Water Inlet Valve

  • Customer: Ron from Hibbing MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.

Cold water flow was slow

  • Customer: Garry from Palm Bay FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old part; exchanged rubber plungers between the hot and cold. Symptoms still the same - so eliminated the need for new rubber plungers (even though they still needed to be replaced). The only item left were the magnetic switches opening and closing the flows. The syphon was replaced due to broken plastic mountings causing the syphon to hang into the drum. Repair was a snap and finding the parts on your site was very easy and parts were there within 2 days at standard shipping. Thank you.

Spin cycle not working properly; Clothes still soaked when spin cycle finished

  • Customer: Sarah from Columbus OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
We ordered both the motor coupling and the clutch assembly based on our troubleshooting, and because we figured both parts were inexpensive enough we might as well have them both. We initially thought it was the clutch assembly, but as we were taking the washing machine apart, we noticed that actually one of the bolts was missing completely and one had snapped in two. We then realized that the spin cycle problem was actually related to the instability of the motor because of the missing/broken bolts (they didn't even have washers!). All we had to do was replace the bolts and use a bolt extractor to get the broken bolt out, but we went ahead and replaced the clutch assembly as well for good measure. Everything ran perfectly after that! I was very skeptical to do the repair myself, but it really is easy, as long as you have someone with muscle to help out. You can also look up videos online that show you a step by step repair process for the clutch assembly, and I would highly recommend doing that so that you have a visual. It will make everything seem 100x easier.

Washer worked fine but wouldn't spin. Hot smell. I could turn tub by hand to help it get started and it would spin okay. Silver clutch cover was very hot to touch.

  • Customer: Kevin from Disputanta VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled back off machine. A real pain. Not something you have to do although once the back is off, the whole cabinet just lifts off. Idealy: Remove agitator and reatiner clip, lay washer on it's side or face, Remove electrical connector form motor, remove two hoses from pump, (motor can be remove easily from transmission if desired. It's lighter), remove three 1/2" bolts, lift transmission w/clutch assembly out. Pay attention to orientation of flat washer and clip (remove). The cluch band is indside the silver cover. Pich together with pliers to relieve tension and lift out. There are three while pads that wear away and glaze over when they get too hot from slipping. Reassemble. Ths is from memory so I hope I didn't forget anything. Time to do it this way would probably only be 45 minutes.

Washer would not spin a full load.

  • Customer: Ralph from Newbury Park CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
!. Removed agitator from inside
2.Removed outside cabinet
3 Removed pump, motor, and transmission.
4. Slid the entire drive unit out of the tub from the bottom
5. Removed the clutch assy. and installed new.
6. Reverseed the procedure to re-assemble.

No agitation, No spin, pump OK

  • Customer: Ernest from Midlothian VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

Water Level Switch Broken

  • Customer: Bo from Sugar Land TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The repair is very easy with the part found at PartSelect.com. Take the following steps to replace the water level switch:
1. Remove the front panel by unscrewing two screws on the back side
2. Pull off the dial knob from the front
3. Twist the water level switch in either way to remove the switch from the panel
4. Disconnect the connector of control wires and water hose from the broken switch
5. Reconnect the control connector and water hose
6. Push and twist the switch to put back on the front panel
7. secure the front panel by tighten up two screws on the back side of panel

The support sprint had broke which left the basin unleveled so water would leak behind the basin and onto the floor

  • Customer: Michael from Newark DE
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the broken support spring and the problem was fixed

water overflowing when filling

  • Customer: Marni from Buhl ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the parts at a minimal cost compared to the repairman's quote, they arrived in 3 days. I used the laptop and put it right next to where I was working so that I could follow the directions step-by-step. The instructions were easy to follow and showed you right what to do so I never had any questions. My washer had a slightly different configuration but I figured it out. Replacing the parts was simple, take one off, put the other on. Putting the washer front back on was a little tricky, I had to have my daughter help me hold it in place while I wiggled it around to make sure it was just right before I screwed it back together. It was easier than I thought it would be. I told my husband I loved the internet, I would never have been able to do this job without the instructional video. Thanks PartsSelect!

Somehow or another, the plastic cup inside vanished.

  • Customer: Warren from Lakewood CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
This was a really easy replacement job. All I had to do was twist the old Fabric Softener Dispenser to the left to unlock it, pull it off, and put the replacement on.

Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.

  • Customer: Kim from West Liberty OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 15 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).

Water Pump was leaking

  • Customer: Rick from Liberty SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The water pump had a small leak when washing clothes, and my wife was nagging me about it. I know men, youwere shocked that I said nagging and wife in the same sentence. Me being a man, I would have just left it since it is in the laundry room in the carport.

I turned the washer on its side and felt where the leak was on the pump, went inside and ordered the new pump. It was here in 2 days and it took 15 mins to put it back on with only a screwdriver to snap off the retainers and pliers to undo two hoses.

I told my woman that it was fixed and we have lived happily ever after and we played Appliance Repair Man and I was paid very well for the "House Call" if you know what I mean!!!!!

Crossed threaded plastic on old valve was leaking

  • Customer: David from Amity AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws on top of machine to remove the control unit out of the way. Then used large regular screw driver to pry out the two clips that hold the back of the washer tight to the top frame. This allows the back to come away from the machine enough to get the water inlet valve free. Didn't have to remove the bolts at the bottom of the back of the machine (they were pretty rusty) Just removed the single screw holding the water inlet valve in place, slid it down and away from the back cover and could fish it out to the side and disconnect the hose (with plyers) and slide off electrical clips (make a note of which clip goes to which valve.) I removed the part first so I could make sure I was ordering the right one. When the part came (very promptly by the way) it went back together easy. Only question was regarding reinstalling the wires since I didn't mark which way they went. I knew which one went on the Hot and Cold but didn't know if it mattered which clips went on each terminal. Figuring it was AC guessed it didn't matter so put it together the way the connectors seemed to want to lie naturally. Put it together making sure no hoses or wires where pinched or rubbing against sharp edges. Replaced the rubber washers in the hoses and made sure the hose connectors turned freely (they had been rusted a bit and didn't turn on the hose freely and I think this was the start of the cross threading problem) This time the hoses went back on very easily, screwed them hand tight not forcing anything at any time (DIDN"T USE PLIERS!). Tried water and no more leaks. Washer filled faster also, think this was because the screens on the water valve were plugged. I'll have to remember to take the hoses off and make sure the screens are clear every couple years or so. If you are having slow fills, suggest you check this first before tearing in to the machine.

WASHER WOULD STOP IN THE SPIN AND DRAIN CYCLE

  • Customer: PAUL from HANOVER PARK IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
UNSCREWED TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE CONROL COUNSEL AND TILTED THE CONTROL COUNSEL BACK.
DISCONECTED BRASS CLIPS THAT HELD THE BACK OF THE UNIT TO THE CABINET
TILTED HE CABINET BACK TOWARD THE FRONT AND SLID IT OFF.DISCONECTED THE WIRE HARNESS FOR THE SWITCH AND UNSCREWED THE TWO SCREWS UNDER THE LID AND TOOK THE SWITCH OUT REPLACED THE SWITCH PUT THE SCREWES BACK THAT HELD THE SWITCH IN PLACE TILTED THE CABINET BACK ND SLIDE IT BACK ON REFASTENED HE BRASS CLIPS TILD THE CONTROL COUNSEL BAK REPLACED THE SCREWS THE HOLE REPAIR TOOK ABOUT 30 MINUTES FAIRLY EASY TO DO WITH JUST A FLAT HEAD AND PHILIPS SCREW DRIVER
All Instructions for the 11024872300
76-90 of 1,271