11020056994 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I disconnected the washer from the water hoses and unplugged it. I laid it down on its back and the pump was right there on the bottom front. There were no clips holding the pump. With a pair of Channel Locks I disconnected the two hoses from the pump. I had to pry it off using a screwdriver. The pump shaft was rusty from the water leak so I wire brushed off. I put the new clips I ordered in place and pushed the new pump on. I then snapped the back clip on first because it was easier with a little tilt of the pump. I had to use my screwdriver to put the outside clip on. I reconnected the hoses put the wash back upright hooked up the water hoses and plugged it back in. I turned on and no leaks and is working good.

Disconnected power. Disconnected hot and cold, and drain hoses and placed in a plastic bucket. Pulled cover off the washer. Tilted washer onto its back. Removed 2 clips holding the pump. Disconnected wire harness from motor and removed 2 clips holding motor starting with lower clip. Removed a screw from the upper clip used for shipping. Set motor aside and removed broken pieces of the motor coupler from motor and transmission. The replacement part had a metal sleeve in the center of each white plastic ring. The old part did not. This required tapping the new ring onto both the motor and transmission shafts with a socket and makes for a tight fit. Reversed the process to put everything back together. Some alignment might be necessary to place motor to transmission. I recomment wearing thin work gloves to avoid nicks from sharp edges. I didn't. Washer is spinning again and sounds a lot better.

Partselect's video on how to replace the waterpump was great, but I was a bit stymied at the beginning as the control panel on my Whirlpool was attached differently than shown in the video. Mine was held on with two Phillips head screws in the back corners of the control panel. Also I'd suggest replacing the tub to pump hose (Part PS334685) at the same time-I wish I did. That hose was coated with crud which I cleaned out the best I could. All in all a pretty easy job-hardest part was getting cabinet back on (put the front bottom under the frame, then lower the cabinet onto the frame.

just like video except to keep cogs in place I inverted upper agitator with all parts and bolt inserted held in place with socket and extension.

I just followed the steps on the video, I was surprised how fast I got the parts within 24 Hrs . Thanks

Remove the cover of the washer, pull out motor, pry out motor coupler, replace. May have to hammer with a rubber mallet to get it on. Replace motor and washer cover. We also replace the water pump. It wasn't broken, but since we had the washer torn apart, decided to replace it as well. There are lots of YouTube videos to help you out.

The top of the agitator pops out and leaves the fastener(a 17mm bolt) open at the bottom of a 6 inch or so opening in the top piece. That bolt comes out with a socket extension and the top comes off. Replacing the dogs is just a case of sliding a retainer ring down, removing the broken dog pieces and replacing with new dogs. Reverse the disassembly process to reassemble the unit. Now, it works great.

followed the video on the web site and repair was amazingly easy. I have two of these machines, and this same part went bad about 1 1/2 year ago, so this time i was ready for everything. Took everything apart, got rid of old broken part, replaced with new, and Bam, washer back up and running, less than 30 minutes, I am limited on space in my basement, so i didn't turn machine on its back, i did it in the upright position, just utilized some wood blocks to hold the motor during part change, and a hand spring clamp to hold pump and hoses out of my way after removing the clips that hold it on. It's not rocket science, if i can do it so can you. Good luck

Removed softener dispenser from agitator. Removed 1/2" bolt from inside agitator and removed top half of agitator. Removed cog assembly. Used screw driver to pry slip ring up 1/4 " to access directional cogs. Replaced cogs, pushed slip ring back into place. Reassembled agitator in reverse order of disassembly.

First I tipped the washer forward and placed a plastic milk crate under the rear of the washer to support it . Then tipping the washer back. I placed two car jack stands near the front to support and level the machine. Now I had enough room to look under it to see where it was leaking. Right away I could see a drip coming from the pump in the front of the washer. I removed the two water hoses. Then with a screwdriver popped a clip on the top of the pump and one on the bottom. The pump slid easily off . Slide the new pump on and reverse the process

Followed written instructions after viewing repair video. Would have been helpful to know how far onto shaft each drive piece needed to be placed. I should have noted old piece placement, though if this was noted in instructions it would have been reassuring to know what is the proper placement. I also placed machine on its back to align the motor and transmission after new parts were installed on each.

Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.

The repair was easy and the video tutorial was great. That was the easy part. I also had to replace the drain pan and getting it in and out of the pan is no easy task. Plus when you have not moved the washer in 10 years there is some cleaning to do. I would not hesitate to do it myself again. It cost me $20 and some sweat equity.

Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

I watched the video to get a good idea of the procedure. I followed the instructions to remove the cabinet but kept the washer upright on its base. I left the water feed hoses attached to the wall spigots, but turned them off. The pump was rusted onto the motor shaft so I left it there. I unhooked the pump hoses from the pump so I could remove the pump and motor as a unit. The plastic coupling ends pulled off the motor and gearbox shafts easily. The new coupling ends have metal inserts which are a tight fit on the gearbox and motor shafts. To maintain the original alignment it's important to drive them fully into place. I greased the shafts then tapped the coupling ends on with a hammer and drift. The drift was a metal tube, inside diameter slightly larger than the shafts, but small enough to bear on the metal inserts, not on the plastic. My diagnosis was wrong - the original coupling was in good condition, but the clutch had failed.