Models > 11018522790 > Instructions

11018522790 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11018522790
46 - 60 of 1442
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
broken pump and burned out motor
The repair itself was very simply, probably largely due to the design of the machine which made getting to, and replacing the two faulty parts a cinch. Just unscrew the two screws on the motor brackets which hold the motor down, and remove the brackets. Then remove the two smaller brackets which hold the pump to the motor. Then remove the two clamps and hoses from the pump. Lastly disconnect the power supply from the motor and the pump and motor will then come out as one unit. Simply reverse the process when reinstalling the new pump and motor. I used a bit of oil to lubricate the new motor shaft but I am sure it probably isn't necessary. The job should take no more than half an hour tops.
Parts Used:
2-Speed Drive Motor - 60Hz 120V Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Anthony from Webster, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
39 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
water leak at pump
1. remove 2 hoses at pump using pliers to open hose clamps and sliding them out of the way.
2. remove 2 retainers holding pump with screwdriver.
3. remove old pump and install new pump
4. clamp pump using retaining clips
5. re-connect hoses
Parts Used:
Pump Retainer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • oscar from missouri city, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
35 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer filled v e r y slowly
I'd noticed for a while that our 15-year-old Kenmore washer was filling slowly, but when it started to take 30 minutes to fill to the "medium" level, I knew something was really wrong. There was plenty of water pressure, so I replaced a hose that was loaded with minerals and cleaned the filter (also clogged with minerals). But that didn't help! So I ordered a new water inlet valve, and replaced that. There's nothing tricky about the repair -- the hardest part is opening and closing the washer, for which I found instructions online. (Even so, it's the most time-consuming part of the project.) The result is the washer now fills as fast as when it was new. Just for fun, I took apart the old valve and expected to find it encrusted with minerals, but it looked fine, so I'm not sure where the actual breakdown was. But since the part only cost $25 -- less than a service call, for sure -- I was very happy to use a half hour of my time and keep the machine going a while longer.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket
  • Jonathan from Arlington, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
33 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Cold water flowed slowly
First, be sure to take the washer apart properly! The first time I fixed my washer I took it apart the hard way to change the clutch, and believe me it took longer to put it back together!
This time I was replacing both the water inlet valve and the hose leading to the disperser.
First remove the two screws holding down the control panel. It then flips back and hangs out of the way behind the washer. Then remove the spring-clip holding the rear plate to the body of the washer, one on each side under the control panel.
Next you need to remove the screws holding the body down to the base at the rear of the machine.
I then tipped the body of the washer forward and let it rest on a bucket so I didn't have to take it completely off. Then it is easy to access the hose and the water inlet valve. Shut off the water and remove the supply hoses to the washer. Remove the two screws holding the water inlet valve to the rear of the washer using a nut driver. Next remove the wires to teh inlet valve, making sure to note which one is cold and hot, and which orientation they are. Mine was yellow on top and brown on bottom. Next remove the springs clamps holding the hose on. Replace the hose re-using the same clamps. Replace the water inlet valve reverse the process to re-assemble the washer. Tilt the body back on, put the screws in the base, clamp the back to the body, flip the contorl panel back over and insert the screws. Reattach the water supply lines and you are done!
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Hose Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket
  • Timothy from Springfield, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
33 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Tank was overfilling, lots of water on the floor, not good.
Disassembled the control panel and replaced the water level sensor, but not the hose - bad idea. It was probably just the hose. The thing tested fine for 3 fillings. I told my friend to watch it closely for the first couple of loads, because I thought the level was not consistent? - but she didn't. More water on the floor. Replaced the hose and it's working fine. Thank you.
Parts Used:
Water Level Switch
  • Jonathan from Hayden, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
32 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
unbalanced load...knocking sound.
Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.
Parts Used:
Spring Outer Bracket Bracket, Spring Outer (L.F.) Screw
  • Edward from Easthampton, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
31 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer would fill/empty but would not agitate nor spin
Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
  • Ted from SOUTH MILWAUKEE, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Severe water leak
1) Unplugged electrical cord
2) Removed hot/cold water hoses
3) Took drain hose from laundry room recepatcle
4) Moved washing machine to area where I could lay it down on its back (very important for easy fix)
5) Found (easy accessible in my case) water pump with an inlet and outlet water hose held on with spring clamps.
6) Removed each of the two clamps with pliers and each hose by twisting loose
7) Remove two metal clips holding pump to motor housing
8) Slide pump off shaft - removal is finished!
9) Reversed process for installation, making sure to gently align pump housing when the pump is aligned with the shaft
[probably took less than 15 minutes]
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Noel from Pollock, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
water overflowing when filling
I ordered the parts at a minimal cost compared to the repairman's quote, they arrived in 3 days. I used the laptop and put it right next to where I was working so that I could follow the directions step-by-step. The instructions were easy to follow and showed you right what to do so I never had any questions. My washer had a slightly different configuration but I figured it out. Replacing the parts was simple, take one off, put the other on. Putting the washer front back on was a little tricky, I had to have my daughter help me hold it in place while I wiggled it around to make sure it was just right before I screwed it back together. It was easier than I thought it would be. I told my husband I loved the internet, I would never have been able to do this job without the instructional video. Thanks PartsSelect!
Parts Used:
Water Pressure Hose - Cut-to-Fit Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket
  • Marni from Buhl, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
34 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Water constantly dripped into washer when it was off.
Turned off water and pulled power plug, Then unscrewed hot and cold hoses from washer.
I took off the top control by undoing the 2 screws in front and then the two screws on the back plastic latches. Mover it forware and took off the 2 screws on the bottom of the back which came up and off easily. Undid the two screws holding the Water valve to the back and undid the water outlet tube and the wireing. Replaced with new valve and reattached tubing and wires. Screwed back on and reattached controls.
Actually was very easy even without repair manual to the washing machine.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket
  • MARK from MARION, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Two leaking hoses in my washing machine
Put the machine on its side. Remove old hoses and screw new ones into place. Done in under 20 minutes.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose Tub-to-Pump Hose Kit
  • Marc from Morton Grove, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
28 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Agitator was locked up
I had a little difficulty at first, trying to remove the back of the unit. I then figured out that the repair was to be made by leaning the washer back and removing it from underneath. That became really easy as the bottom is open.I had to remove one nut and then the agitator from inside, then tilt the machine back, disconnect the two hoses from the pump, remove three bolts and lower the motor/ transmission assembly. Then I had to disconnect the motor from the pump ( with two snap on clips) and remove the broken plastic coupling. The new coupling had a metal insert that seems to make it stronger than the original piece.I then just reversed the procedure to put it together again and it worked fine. The part was shipped immediately and I got it sooner than I expected so I greatly appreciate that. Overall it went well, and by the way, it was my daughters washer and she was happy as well.Thanks, Roger
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
  • Roger from Palmyra, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
In the spin cycle, drum would'nt spin unless assisted
First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!
Parts Used:
Direct Drive Motor Coupling Clutch Assembly
  • ANTHONY from NY, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Top half of the agitator was not turning.
I just took the cap of the agitator off and the 3/8" nut was right there. I took it off with a socket, removed the top agitator, slid the assembled kit in , replaced the agitator and cap...that was it !!. These parts priced thrrough Sears were $77.00 plus S&H. Your price for the entire kit- less than $12.00 !! If you don't think that you can do this yourself, have your 7 year old child do it. Took me about 5 minutes. Great price and fast shipping. Thanks
Parts Used:
Agitator Repair Kit
  • Dennis from Avon, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
24 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Cog stripped causing agitator to not turn
Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined correctly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.
Parts Used:
Agitator Directional Cogs
  • Vicki from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 11018522790
46 - 60 of 1442