11016962500 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

After removing the front, sides and top of the machine (all one piece) the springs were relativley easy to access. I discover one of the brakets that held one of the springs had rusted and would no longer support the spring. I then replaced the bracket and springs. I Re-assyembled the machine and it work as good as new.

This is the first time I've ever fixed anything. I had no idea what I was doing but like the rest of you I decided to man up and get er done myself! I also didn't want to spend 200-300 bucks on a repair guy. So using this site and google. I figured out how to remove the back plate of my washer so I could correctly diagnose the problem...in fact I didnt' even have too remove the back plate to diagnose it because when I started to move the washer I found several broken plastic triangular pieces and a round rubber piece with 6 triangular holes in it. On one of the broken pieces was a serial number of some sort. So I googled what i found and matched what i found on underneath my machine with a part i found on this website which turned out to be the direct drive motor coupling...i figured i was in for a rough battle with the machine but it actually turned out to be pretty easy...in fact it would've been easier had this machine not been serviced before in the past...(i'll get to that later) first step was to remove the back plate...using youtube i figured out how to remove the metal clamps that hold the cabinet to the back plate (you will need a flat head screw driver). Rest was elementary it took me about 2 minutes to remove the back plate after spending probably 30 minutes of research online (i like to make sure i'm doing everything correctly so i watch several videos and do a ton of reading before i mess with anything)*also a side note make sure you unplug the machine before you do anything! Also turn off the water and remove the draining tubes from the back of the machine because you will need to tilt the whole thing on its back failure to do this will result in a watery mess and u could kink the drain tube which will lengthen your repair time like it did with me. Also remove the hot and cold water tubes from teh back...remember that the hot water is always on the bottom memorize where you put the tubes...u can always check which is which by turning the water back on but it will save you sometime* once i got the back plate off i tilted the machine on its back so i could get to the motor and the water pump...there are 2 metal clamps that hold the water pump to the motor. All it takes is a flat head screw driver to remove these clamps once you get the 2 clamps off you can lift the water pump right off the motor its really easy. This exposes the motor which houses the direct drive motor coupling. I inspected what was left of the coupling and if there was any doubt that it was the motor coupling there wasn't anymore because it was clearly broken and the rubber piece that was supposed to sit between the 2 plastic things was gone. Needless to say it was a mess and i knew it was gonna be a challenge to remove the broken coupling. It was surprisingly easy to remove the coupling from the top of the motor compared to the middle of it. There are 2 more metal clamps that fasten the motor in place so it doesn't move around...there are 2 screws that hold these clamps in place. I removed one of them with no problem but the other one was stripped extremely bad i was completely unable to remove it. If you are in this bad boat like i was in i have a solution for you...you only need to remove one screw if you can grab the motor and rotate it enough u can remove the clamp from the metal plate without ever having to remove the clamp at all...its a little difficult and you will have to use a bit of elbow grease to do it but it can be done. Once i achieved this it was a lot easier to access the broken coupling from the middle of the motor. I took the back end of a hammer and evenly jiggled the coupling loose until it popped off...it took a solid 10 minutes tho since the coupling had shattered so bad there wasn't much for the hammer to hold onto. Once i did this i was able to get the new pieces in place...it was a little tricky to line things up correctly but after awhile i was able to get it to fit perfectly...I put the machine back

I did like the video said about the removal of the control pnl. Now removal of the of the top and front cover was a bit more of a learn as you go to remove all the hoses that go to the fabrix sofner, bleach, and detergent compartments. It was done with the aid of a pair of pliers. There was 4 lines in the top at the back left that has to be removed to finish the cover removal! Now after that it was easy. the rest was like the video. Motor and pump removal simple. I would remember to inspect the inside of the pump to remove any trash that might get wrapped on the impeller.less than hour start to finish and it was a cheap fox and better than buying a new washer!

Have replaced the rubber "dogs" in the agitator before. Washer had an extended service contract that expired in 1986. It just won't die.

Replaced them as I saw it done in the video. It made it a piece of cake!

removed the two screws from the back of the dial bar on the top of the washer. removed original unit, and install the new unit.

I was expecting to spend $100 or more if not having to go buy a new washer. I found your site and I was like "wow" then I found the Video of the intsual. It could not be any more simple. Entire job took 5 min. And under $4 for parts. All I can say is outstanding and thank you

DIAGNOSIS 1) Popped off the agitator cap. 2) Used a 1/2" socket extension driver to back out the plastic retention nut 3) removed the agitator and poured all the little plastic pieces into my hand 4) googled up the agitator assembly by model number, led me to Part select website 5) identified the plastic pieces as "dog ears" 6) ordered new dog ears for just under $4 REPAIR 1) waited 3 days and got dog ears in the mail 2) had a beer and opened the mail 3) inserted the dog ears into agitator assembly according to the picture on Part Select web site 4) had another beer 5) installed the agitator back into the washer, tightened the retention nut 5) admired my handiwork with another beer 6) washed a load of clothes DIAGNOSIS TIME - about 15 minutes REPAIR TIME - about 4 minutes plus 10 more to drink the beers

I gave the parts to my wife. Then I took them back and fixed the washer .

The repair went very quick and easy. What made this repair so quick and easy is because of the very prompt and quick shipping of the replacement part from this company. This was my first experience with this company and will always use in the future. I ordered the part one day and the very next day I received the part. Great job to this company!!!!!

used socket wrench with an 8in extension to remove agitayor bolt that was under cap on top part of agitator. was back together in about 15 min.correct parts were shipped in record time.

Removed and took apart agitator and replaced directional cogs.

It was my Mothers washer & did find out the Direct drive Motor Coupling was a little warn & replaced not to hard but took more time to get top off because you have to really get under the top off hood & clips where really in there the vidio showed held on with screws & on this Kenmoore Elite the Clips are under the Hood which does make it alittle bit harder so you have to be careful not to bend up the Hood where all your controls are , But did not solve the issue. Looked at lid switch & it was damaged so now going to Replace it. If this was my machine probably would be a bit easier to have seen it is the Lid switch hopefully this next part will fix the problem.

I noticed a leak on the floor. I check the hoses for tightness on the back of the washer and the hoses going to the facets and drain. After disconnecting the hoses going to the washer, facet and drain, I then flip the washer on it's back and examined the underside for wetness. All the underside hoses appeared to be not leaking. I then disconnected the two hoses going to the pump with channel-locks, and I disconnect the two clips holding the pump with just my hand and removed the water pump. I then poured water into the hoses' opening on the water pump itself, and I discovered a slow leak occurring from the shaft area on the water pump. I searched PartSelect and luckily found a water pump that matched. I then installed the new water pump (after receiving it a few days later) in reversed procedures of disconnecting the old water pump. I tested the washer by adding a little bit of water into the washer then switch the dial to spin cycle in order to empty the water inside the washer--no leaks occurred and I was extremely happy.

Because your video was done so well, it only took about 10 minutes to make the replacement. I was really impressed when my tracking notice was e-mailed it included the link to the instructional video. I will recomend your web site to others.