Quick Question!

Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?

Models > 11016852503 > Instructions

11016852503 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11016852503 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11016852503
76-90 of 1,081
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Water Pump was leaking

  • Customer: Rick from Liberty, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The water pump had a small leak when washing clothes, and my wife was nagging me about it. I know men, youwere shocked that I said nagging and wife in the same sentence. Me being a man, I would have just left it since it is in the laundry room in the carport.

I turned the washer on its side and felt where the leak was on the pump, went inside and ordered the new pump. It was here in 2 days and it took 15 mins to put it back on with only a screwdriver to snap off the retainers and pliers to undo two hoses.

I told my woman that it was fixed and we have lived happily ever after and we played Appliance Repair Man and I was paid very well for the "House Call" if you know what I mean!!!!!

Washer would'nt spin

  • Customer: Dean from Poplar Grove, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

Machine agitated during cycle but would not spin clothes dry.

  • Customer: Kurt from Bremerton, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the excellent video instructions. They say you can perform the repair without removing the enclosure, but when I saw how easy it was to remove it, it definitely improves the access and speeds the repair. Have a piece of wire handy to to hold the pump assembly out of the way. Installed new clutch kit and it runs like a champ.

No cold water entering machine

  • Customer: Steve from Bethel, ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
After uplugging and removing the hoses from the back of the washer, 1 - Removed four screws that secure control panel to top of machine and tilted panel toward front. Disconnected wiring plugs as req'd to gain more access. 2 - Removed the two gold colored clips that secure the top to the lower sheetmetal housing and tilted the lower housing away from the back of the machine. 3 - Removed the shield that is clipped to the back just above the inlet valve assy. 4 - Removed the hose clamp from the valve, disconnected the four wires to the valve (note their position), Removed the single screw that secures the valve assy to the back and removed the valve assy. Installation is reverse of above.

No agitation, No spin, pump OK

  • Customer: Ernest from Midlothian, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

Washer basket off-center and wobbling during spin cycle

  • Customer: Craig from Woodland Hills, UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.

Two problems - washer stopped and had to open and close lid several times to restart. Problem 2 - could not get inlet valve to take in hot water.

  • Customer: Harry from Bensalem, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
1. Read a repair manual that I bought several years ago for this model. Pictures and notes for removing control panel and back cover of washer were very helpful. Replacing the lid switch was easy as long as you have the lid open when locking it down. The control valve was easy and I swapped out wires one at a time to make sure I didn't swap hot for cold. I then removed valve and locked down new one. Reversing the control panel and back skin were easy with a second set of hands to hold the back panel in place while installing two bottom screws. The parts resolved the problems.

top agitator would not operate

  • Customer: Larry from Edgewood, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

tub oscillation

  • Customer: leonard from phil campbell, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright

washing machine not draining

  • Customer: michael from princeton, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.

washer would not agitate when lid was closed

  • Customer: Timothy from Saint Louis, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The only tricky part was figuring out how to get to the part. There were only two screws that seemed likely candidates to pop off the control panel (on the back at the corners). Fortunately for me the obvious answer was the right one...the panel lifted up and the new part went in - very easy.

washer would fill but not run

  • Customer: steve from madison, SD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.

washer wouldn't go into spin cycle

  • Customer: Jesse from Lester Prairie, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
After reading other repair stories I did it like they said. I disconnected all the hoses and drained as much water as I could. The top came apart easily with a regular screwdriver, a 1/2 in drive with extension, and a 14 or 15mm deep socket. The spanner nut came off easiest with several short, quick blows (punch and hammer, counterclockwise). In my case a good wack seemed to be soaked up by the wash tub springs. Be careful not to chip the tub.

I laid the washer, front down, onto a couple a 2x6's. I supported between the tub and body with small 2x4 scraps. The motor/trans/pump came off easily after disconnection the 2 hoses (towels handy) and wiring. After the 3 screws, and some wiggling, the assembly slid out nicely. The coupler came out after snapping the springs off to remove the pump and motor. A 1/4 nut driver and regular screwdriver assisted. Watch how the pump comes off. You might want to mark its orientation with a marker or something. Make sure you get the new coupler on all the way with some taps on the CENTER where the shaft is. Reassemble in the reverse order. You'll know why I suggested marking the water pump.

Watch the order/orientation of the springs, clips, and washer. The clips came off with a screwdriver and pliers. It's always nice to have a rag on them when removing, they like to shoot off and land in the spot that's hardest to find, like under the dryer. My clutch was assembled with the right spring and slid right on. Don't forget about the plastic washer, snap it in good. The plastic piece still on the washer was simple. I opened up a nose pliers and put it on each side of the clip then gave it a hit. It came off with minimal effort and didn't spin on the shaft like pushing on one side with a screwdriver.

During reassembly I put a very light film of grease on the shaft. That washer with the tabs gave me trouble at first. I put a good film of grease on the side with the tabs to hold it in place, with the tabs down, in the clip. Otherwise when sliding the assembly back together it comes loose and you won't get the motor/trans all the way in. Then it all has to come back out and you'll wonder what the heck is keeping the transmission from seating in all the way. You might even get it all together, figuring the motor or tub has to turn to get it to seat right. You may even try running a no clothes load and get stuck with a tub full of water. Ask me how I know.

Reverse everything to reassemble. Make sure you get the springs tight that hold the hoses on. I was worried about over tightening the plastic nut with a 1/2 drive. Run no-clothes load, large, hot with soap. I think tipping it over loosened some stuff that was stuck in between the tub and basket. No, it wasn't grease from the shaft, light film. Anyway, I'll waste a washer full of hot soapy water to avoid the, "Um..what's this on my new shirt".

I didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but I was leary about tackling this job at first. I know my way around the garage/cars, but never tried appliances before. I pictured it'd be apart for weeks and I'd have to call a repair man. Then the "I told you so" look would come. You all know what I mean. I just want to cover as much as possible and encourage others while having them avoid any troubles.

Washer would not work in agitate or spin cycle

  • Customer: yesenia from apopka, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.

Washer tub off balance and noisy

  • Customer: Gregory from Kent, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.
All Instructions for the 11016852503
76-90 of 1,081