Models > 11016732500 > Instructions

11016732500 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11016732500 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11016732500
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Machine rocking about like crazy on spin

  • Customer: john from middle river MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 44 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
Took some online research to figure out how to get the cabinet off. Once inside I fitted the wear pads which were a breeze to remove using a knife blade to pry them up and removing them using the screwdriver. The springs were replaced one by one using strong fingers. The machine went through the spin cycle without any rocking or self-destruct noises.

Tub wouldn't turn, but motor would allow it to drain.

  • Customer: Troy from Storm Lake IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 46 of 57 people found this instruction helpful
I took the two screws for the control panel out and tilted it up and back. Then remove the two metal clips which held the outer panel to the back panel. After disconnecting the power and water I tipped the washer on its back. I had to remove two clips to take the water pump off of the motor, then removed the two screws and clips which held in the motor. After removing the motor, I found the coupler was bad. To remove the gearcase, I took out the softener dispenser and removed one bolt to take out the agitator. Under the agitator was a clip. Three bolts held the gearcase to the frame. After removing them, the gearcase pulled straight out the bottom. Replacement was just a reverse process, with the addition of a light coat of grease to the gearcase shaft.

The washer wouldn't spin or agitate.

  • Customer: david from Monroe MI
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 36 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
Frist I disconnected the water lines and power cord. Then I leaned the washer back against the wall. Removed the 2 pump retainers and then the pump. Next removed the 2 screws from the motor retainers and pulled off the retainers and motor. Then removed the 3 bolts from the Gear case. Then removed the cap from the top of the agitator with a flat screw driver. Then removed the bolt from the top of the gear shaft. and removed the auger and agitator assembly. Then removed the gear case from the washer. Next removed the slip ring and then the clutch from the top of the gear case. Next removed the 1/4" screws from cover of gear case and removed the cover. Found the top gear bad. Ordered the new gear and pinion kit. Couldn't find any part #'s to match what PartSelect had. Ordered the gear that they should that fit most washers. The pics they had up looked the same as the one that was bad. Had the new gear in 3 days put it back together and it still wouldn't work right. Took it apart again and looked at it and found a small clip on the bottom side of the gear was upside down. Fliped it over put the gear back in and ran the washer with the gear case out and it worked. Put it back together again. And learned a good lesson always watch how you take things apart for when it's time to put it back together!

would not completely spin all the water out of clothes

  • Customer: Ron from bellbrook OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 35 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the clutch and coupler. The clutch was well worn. My wife had washed three or four loads of heavy rugs and we think that was the cause of the premature wear. We now take the rugs to a commercial laundry. The coupler was OK but the new coupler has metal instead of plastic inserts so I decided to replace it while I had it torn apart. The machine is now running like it was new.

0.Disconnect supply hoses and electrical. Refer to the parts breakdown pictures on the PartSelect website. I refer to only the numbers so you may have to match the part to a particular diagram.
1. Remove the agitator by pulling up on the fabric softener dispenser #1. Clean out the excess liquid and "residual gunk". Grab one off the tabs of the plastic cap #23 and pull gently. The plastic cap (~ 3" in dia) is held in place by a rubber O-ring #24. The cap comes out easily exposing the bolt that holds the agitator to the drive shaft. Remove the bolt. and the agitator comes right out.
2. Turn the machine over on its front. You do not need to remove the back panel.
3. Get plenty of rags to soak up the water before you remove the hoses from the water pump #22 on the end of the motor. A quart or more remains in the pump and hoses. Remove the two hoses.
4. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor#29. There is a small plastic "catch" on the bottom of the connector that must be lifted to remove the connector. It's kind of hard to see but it's there and it's part of the connector.
5. Remove the three bolts #10 that hold the gearcase #9 to the bottom of the tub assembly.
6. Remove the gearcase, the drive shaft, the motor, and the water pump as one unit. You will need to lift them a little to get clearance because the tub has settled down. Just lift the tub and all and pull the assembly out. Get them out to a spot where you have room to work on them. The water pump may still have bit of water.
7. Replacing the clutch. Remove the clutch parts from the bag and lay them out where you can see everything. Refer to the instructions in the bag to select the correct spring and to see how the keeper spring is installed. Remove the washer, keeper ring, and clutch assembly, and plastic clip#15 remembering the order and the orientation. Install the new clutch in reverse order.
8. You will have one plastic part #15 left over. It goes on the bottom of the tub after you remove a key ring.
9. Replacing the coupler. note the orientation of the water pump#22 and remove it by removing the two retainers #21. set it aside.
10. Remove the screws#23 and retainer clips#17. Separate the motor#20 from the gearcase#9 to expose the coupler. Replace the coupler, reattach the motor to the gearcase, and the water pump to the motor.
11. The reassembly is pretty much a reverse of the assembly.

Agitator was not working

  • Customer: Michael from Murray KY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 37 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
Step 1) Take off top cap with a flat head screw driver.

2) unscrew bolt (may need extension as it may be deep in the agitator.)

3) Take upper agitator off.

4) remove clog retainer and clogs.

5) insert new clogs and re-assemble.

total time 10 to 15 min.

Washer not spinning completely and at time not at all

  • Customer: Jason from Henderson KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 35 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
I have to admit that before attempting to replace the clutch, I had no clue how to do it. With the help of the diagram of the parts, I was able to access from the internet at PartSelect.com. I felt comfortable enough to attempt the repair because the diagram was easy to read and accurate.

Everything had to be accessed from the bottom of the machine. I tipped the machine backwards enough get under it. To replace the clutch, I had to remove the motor drive. To do so, I disconnected the electrial to the drive motor by simply unconnecting the quick connect harness. I then removed two screws from the two retainer brackets located one on top and one on the bottom. Once this was done the motor drive simply dropped down. I then removed the three bolts holding the gear case to the tub. I had to remove one bolt from inside the tub underneath the fabric softner dispenser. Once this was done the gear case slid out. The clutch sit on top of the gear case. I then simply removed the old clutch and installed the new clutch by reversing the process. The only real difficulty that I had was with the retainer ring. Once done, I reinstalled the gear case and motor drive. I would suggest replacing the direct-drive coupling at this time. I had earlier replaced the coupling hoping to solve the problem. The coupling was redesigned and is more likely to last longer than the orginal coupling.

bad water pump

  • Customer: carrie from magna UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
We received the part we needed in a timely manner. First we took the back off the washer and found out later we didn't have to, because you can access the pump from the bottom of the Whirlpool washer and when we turned it on it's back a brass colored pin about 2" long fell out and we have no idea where it goes.Looking around the bottom frame we saw another pin in a plastic little cup mounted to the frame and another empty cup .So we changed the pump easy,put the pin in the empty cup and the washer runs great! That's our story.Still don't know what the pin is for,it's not on the parts schematic.

Washer wouldn't spin or agitate. Made louder-than-usual noise during those cycles.

  • Customer: Paul from Boonton NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 31 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
1. Read many other repair stories for similar symptoms. PartSelect Forum was an excellent resource.

2. Posted my problem on PartSelect Forum and awaited reply. Read replies, and followed provided link to step-by-step guide for the procedure. PartSelect forum moderators were excellent advisors!

3. Performed the first half of the procedure to get to the diagnosed root cause. In some of the stories I had read, people had turned the washer on its back or tilted it up to get at the area from underneath. I am so glad I followed the conventional instructions, and left the washer standing and simply removed the cabinet. It was surprisingly easy. There's a reason why it was designed that way. I am also glad that I chose to remove the pump from the motor. While it is true that you don't *have* to remove the pump from the motor to get at the coupling...it hardly seems to make sense to remove the hoses instead. Removing the pump was incredibly easy, and by doing so, I never had to break any "wet" connections, and not one drop of water spilled over the course of the entire repair. (Even though I forgot to shut the water supply valves before I got started. Ooops! At least I remembered to unplug the power cord.)

4. But despite the open valves, the galoshes came into play not for their ability to repel water, but for their value as an electric insulator. I wrapped the galoshes around the handle of a long screwdriver when I discharged the motor's capacitor. :)

5. Ordered parts. Washed clothes in sink. Waited. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited some more. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited still more. Came very close to stopping payment to PartSelect because the very simple, commonly-requested part I ordered, which was supposedly in stock on the day I ordered it, didn't ship until the day it was supposed to arrive--even though I paid extra for expedited shipping. And I was never sent an e-mail to warn me that the parts were going to be delayed. And then to top it all off, rather than make up for some of the lost time caused by their own error, and ship it overnight, PartSelect chose to ship it 2nd day. All that good will generated by the excellent website completely evaporated by the failure to correctly complete the simple tasks that the business has needed to be good at since before computers were even invented. I will never use PartSelect again.

6. Prying the old coupler halves off of the motor and the washer took some effort, but was not overly difficult. I wound up removing the motor mounting plate in order to get better access to the half that was stuck on / needed to be attached to the drive train of the washing machine. Mounting plate was a breeze to remove and attach with a socket driver. I used one of those stubby flat-head screwdrivers to pry the old parts off. This was the one time where I thought it might have been easier to have the washing machine tilted up or on its back...but I muddled on through without even removing the bottom panel, and it wasn't too awkward. I used a large socket and a full-size hammer to not-so-gently tap the new parts into place. Putting all of the parts back together took a bit longer than it took to break them down, but it was easy. The instructions for putting the electronic control panel into test mode had been rolled up and taped to the cabinet inside the top panel. After I put the cabinet back on, I used those instructions to test all the cycles before fastening the top panel and testing the machine with an actual load. So far, so good...

Post drip from water inlet

  • Customer: Pat from Hilliard FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 31 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
To replace the inlet solenoid valve/thermistor assembly:
Unplug the washer.
Turn the water off and unscrew the hoses from the inlet.
Unsnap the end caps from the top control panel.
Remove the exposed screws from each end of the panel (#2 Phillips).
Pull the panel out of the way and pop out the two retaining clips that hold the back of the machine to the cabinet. They are located under the control panel.
Remove the mounting screw from the valve assembly (1/4-inch driver).
Pull the back away from the cabinet far enough to remove the valve, but don't let the wires get cut.
Disconnect the wires. To unplug the solenoid connectors, lift the long tab with a screwdriver.
Disconnect the water outlet hose.
Connect the wires and hose to the new valve assembly. The red connector goes to the hot water valve. The thermistor wires (the two individual connectors) can be connected to either terminal. It does not matter if they are reversed.
Put the valve back in place and install the screw.
Hook up and turn the water on.
Plug in the machine and test the valve.
Unplug the power and reinstall the back and the control panel. The back-to-cabinet clips can be snapped back in place easily.

Spin cycle stopped working

  • Customer: Brent from Highlands Ranch CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 29 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Farly easy repair, once I figured out the problem. The clutch assebly plastic part broke (over 15 yrs old), which is the part that engages the drum for the spin cycle. Following the very helpful diagram on Part Select, I removed the agitator cap and bolt from inside the agitator assembly, and pulled the assembly out of the drum. Then I put the washer on its side and removed the three bolts and two hose claps that hold the motor assembly. I pulled the motor assembly along with the drive shaft out to access the clutch/brake assembly area, removed the broken plastic drive piece and re-assembled.

I smelled smoke and then it quit working

  • Customer: Paul from Lakewood WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug the electrical chord and disconnect the water supply after you have turned it off. Drain all water you can by putting the drain hose into a bucket or water container lower then the drain hose. Remove the two screws at base of the front panel. Then go to the back side of the machine remove the two screws at the top of the back panel, this allow you to remove the top switch panel. Remove the two screws at the bottom outside corners of the back panel and then you can lift the panel up and away from the base. I leaned the back against my dryer because I did not have a helper. Go to the front of the machine, lift the lid and grasp with one hand the machine's sheet metal lift and pull it off the base. There are two metal clips attaching the pump to the motor. The pump slides off and I did not have to remove the hoses. Unclip the electrical connectors from the motor and capacitor. The motor is mounted with two clips with a screw secure it in place. Unscrew and unclip and the motor should slide out. Be sure to inspect the direct drive coupler, the parts not too expensive. I had replaced mine just 4 months ago so I was good to go. Reverse the procedure and you should be in business.

Washer would fill/empty but would not agitate nor spin

  • Customer: Ted from SOUTH MILWAUKEE WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 25 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.

sounded out of balance even after shifting clothes

  • Customer: Lori from Parchment MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 23 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
The tub was out of alignment and water fell behind it and onto the floor. My brother-in-law suggested my problem could be the tub balancing spring and when I moved my washing machine, there it was on the ground.
The schematic does not show where it hooks up. So after I did what I thought looked right, the machine still did not work properly. Then I replaced the three suspension springs and that didn't solve the problem.
I found a whirlpool "do-it-yourself" repair book at the library and was prepared to tear into the machine. However, I did not have the tub balancing spring in the correct spot at one end. It hooks up from one of the outer bracket to the back of the housing unit along between the legs. There is a hole that had rusted through. I simply drilled a new hole nearby and low and behold it works!
Easy fix - the frustration was with the poor schematic.

Severe water leak

  • Customer: Noel from Pollock ID
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
1) Unplugged electrical cord
2) Removed hot/cold water hoses
3) Took drain hose from laundry room recepatcle
4) Moved washing machine to area where I could lay it down on its back (very important for easy fix)
5) Found (easy accessible in my case) water pump with an inlet and outlet water hose held on with spring clamps.
6) Removed each of the two clamps with pliers and each hose by twisting loose
7) Remove two metal clips holding pump to motor housing
8) Slide pump off shaft - removal is finished!
9) Reversed process for installation, making sure to gently align pump housing when the pump is aligned with the shaft
[probably took less than 15 minutes]

broken pump and burned out motor

  • Customer: Anthony from Webster NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 24 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
The repair itself was very simply, probably largely due to the design of the machine which made getting to, and replacing the two faulty parts a cinch. Just unscrew the two screws on the motor brackets which hold the motor down, and remove the brackets. Then remove the two smaller brackets which hold the pump to the motor. Then remove the two clamps and hoses from the pump. Lastly disconnect the power supply from the motor and the pump and motor will then come out as one unit. Simply reverse the process when reinstalling the new pump and motor. I used a bit of oil to lubricate the new motor shaft but I am sure it probably isn't necessary. The job should take no more than half an hour tops.
All Instructions for the 11016732500
16-30 of 1048