Models > 11016602690 > Instructions

11016602690 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11016602690 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11016602690
76-90 of 1,297
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Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.

  • Customer: Kim from West Liberty OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 15 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).

unbalanced load...knocking sound.

  • Customer: Edward from Easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

water leaking during run cycle

  • Customer: michael from weymouth MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
flip machine back remove two spring clamps and hoses remove two spring clamps and water pump save $500.+on a new washer

Washer worked fine but wouldn't spin. Hot smell. I could turn tub by hand to help it get started and it would spin okay. Silver clutch cover was very hot to touch.

  • Customer: Kevin from Disputanta VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled back off machine. A real pain. Not something you have to do although once the back is off, the whole cabinet just lifts off. Idealy: Remove agitator and reatiner clip, lay washer on it's side or face, Remove electrical connector form motor, remove two hoses from pump, (motor can be remove easily from transmission if desired. It's lighter), remove three 1/2" bolts, lift transmission w/clutch assembly out. Pay attention to orientation of flat washer and clip (remove). The cluch band is indside the silver cover. Pich together with pliers to relieve tension and lift out. There are three while pads that wear away and glaze over when they get too hot from slipping. Reassemble. Ths is from memory so I hope I didn't forget anything. Time to do it this way would probably only be 45 minutes.

Wash machine, wouldn't spin dry the close. The pump still worked to drain the water.

  • Customer: Matthew from Albany MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test

Tub banged against the front of case during spin

  • Customer: Peter from Boca Raton FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.

Darn thing hadn't "Agitated" for about 10 years!

  • Customer: Stephen from Cornwall NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the bolt (7/16" head), and using a pair of pliers to remove the 3-4 in deep "cup", it was immediately obvious how to assemble the new cup and pawls (ratchets).

Orienting the black "bearing" was not so obvious, but on closer inspection of the illustration, it became clear. The four "ears" of the bearing go closest to the pawls. The little tabs that are co-planar to the ears fit into the four grooves of the new cup.

And here's the trick (besides making REALLY, REALLY SURE how the pawls orient)--Soak the black bearing piece in hot water to soften it up, and let it slide over the cup better. If you don't, you risk breaking it. If you do, it slides over and "clicjs" into place, with the ears resting right against the bottom lip of the cup, capturing the pawls.

Installation back into the washer is obvious.

The thing works like a charm! It hasn't worked this well for a decade!

spin cycle was not working / poor

  • Customer: Craig from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive assembly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.

WILL NOT SPIN

  • Customer: Daniel from Temple TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
THIS IS A RELATIVELY NEW WASHER AND FAILED EARLY. MY PREVIOUS WHIRLPOOL WASHER LASTED 20 YEARS WITHOUT ANY REPAIRS.
1. FIRST INQUIRED ABOUT THE SPIN PROBLEM IN PARTSELECT. MACHINE WILL NOT SPING UNLESS MANUALY FORCED THEN IT WILL TAKE OFF BUT WEAK.
2.PARTSELECT SUGGESTED A CLUTCH PROBLEM. ORDERED THE PART THAT CAME FAST. WHEN I TRIED REMOVING THE SHAFT HUB WITH A HAMMER AND CHISEL IT WILL NOT GET LOOSE SO I OPTED ORDERING THE SPECIAL WRENCH TO LOOSEN THE TUB HUB.
3.I PUT THE MACHINE ON ITS BACK AND LOOSENED THE PUMP RETAINING CLIPS. DO NOT REMOVE THE HOSES FROM THE PUMP. MOVE THE PUMP AWAY FROM THE MOTOR SHAFT. REMOVE THE MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AND SET ASIDE.
4.REMOVE THE THREE BOLTS HOLDING THE GEARBOX-MOTOR ASSEMPLY AND PULL IT OUT OF THE TUB.
5.PUT THE ASSEMBLY ON A TOWELWITH SHAFT UP AND REMOVE THE SEPARATOR WASHER FROM THE OLD CLUTCH THAT IS SITTING ON THE GEARBOX. THEN REMOVE THE C-RETAINING CLIP FROM THE SHAFT.
6.PRY OUT THE WIRE RETAINING CLIP FROM THE CLUTCH AND PULL THE OLD CLUTCH OUT OF THE SHAFT.
7.THE CLUTCH KIT I ORDERED CAME WITH A PLASTIC BRAKE TO CLUTCH CAM SO I REPLACED IT TOO, JUST REMOVE THE RETAINIG CLIP FROM THE BRAKE THAT IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TUB AND REPLACED THE PART.
8.INSTALLED THE NEW CLUTCH AND THE RETAINING CLIPS IN REVERSE ORDER. REPLACE ALL PARTS THAT CAME WITH THE KIT. THE NEW CLUTCH SPRING WAS ALREADY IN PLACE.
9.PUT THE ASSEMBLY BACK INTO THE TUB AND RE-INSTALL ALL THE OTHER ITEMS IN THE SAME ORDER. IT SPINS GOOD NOW!
10.WHILE REPLACING PARTS, METHODICALLY CLEAN ALL THE LINT FROM THE MOTOR AND FROM UNDER THE MACHINE. THE GEARBOX SHOWED SIGNS OF LEAKING OIL SO ITS A QUESTION OF COST. I LEFT IT THERE UNTIL IT FAILS THEN I'LL BUY A NEW MACHINE.

machine was out of balance

  • Customer: RUSSELL from SOUTHOLD NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the washing machine from the wall and found a broken spring on the floor. Began disassembling the unit before accessing your sight. (Later I viewed your video of the more simple dis assembly).Used your parts breakdown to identify the 6 parts I needed (3 springs and 3 retainers),and ordered them. They arrived on time and as per the video, installed them with ease and reassembled the unit. My wife is very happy. Thank you, Rusty

No agitation, No spin, pump OK

  • Customer: Ernest from Midlothian VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

Two leaking hoses in my washing machine

  • Customer: Marc from Morton Grove IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Put the machine on its side. Remove old hoses and screw new ones into place. Done in under 20 minutes.

Crossed threaded plastic on old valve was leaking

  • Customer: David from Amity AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws on top of machine to remove the control unit out of the way. Then used large regular screw driver to pry out the two clips that hold the back of the washer tight to the top frame. This allows the back to come away from the machine enough to get the water inlet valve free. Didn't have to remove the bolts at the bottom of the back of the machine (they were pretty rusty) Just removed the single screw holding the water inlet valve in place, slid it down and away from the back cover and could fish it out to the side and disconnect the hose (with plyers) and slide off electrical clips (make a note of which clip goes to which valve.) I removed the part first so I could make sure I was ordering the right one. When the part came (very promptly by the way) it went back together easy. Only question was regarding reinstalling the wires since I didn't mark which way they went. I knew which one went on the Hot and Cold but didn't know if it mattered which clips went on each terminal. Figuring it was AC guessed it didn't matter so put it together the way the connectors seemed to want to lie naturally. Put it together making sure no hoses or wires where pinched or rubbing against sharp edges. Replaced the rubber washers in the hoses and made sure the hose connectors turned freely (they had been rusted a bit and didn't turn on the hose freely and I think this was the start of the cross threading problem) This time the hoses went back on very easily, screwed them hand tight not forcing anything at any time (DIDN"T USE PLIERS!). Tried water and no more leaks. Washer filled faster also, think this was because the screens on the water valve were plugged. I'll have to remember to take the hoses off and make sure the screens are clear every couple years or so. If you are having slow fills, suggest you check this first before tearing in to the machine.

washer kept stopping - had to hit lid

  • Customer: Nancy from Montgomery City MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
first I had to work in a closet, so couldn't get body off, just the back. The part removed and replaced really easy. Dropped a socket and a clip, had to get my reacher to get them. Difficulty was in getting the back, back on. Now everything works just fine and all the laundry is almost done.

Plastic holding the Lid Switch screws broke

  • Customer: Ronald from North Brunswick NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the 2 screws holding the control panel.
Tilt the control panel back to expose the spring clips.
Disconnected the Lid Switch Harness plug from the control panel.
Pry out the 2 spring clips, each located on either side of the top of the cabinet.
Openned top lid, placed one hand into the lid openning and pulled the cabinet forward.
Disconnected ground wire. Installed new switch while cabinet was off. Reconnected Harness connector after re-installing the cabinet.
All Instructions for the 11016602690
76-90 of 1,297