Models > 11016212503 > Instructions

11016212503 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11016212503 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11016212503
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The washer wouldn't spin or agitate.

  • Customer: david from Monroe MI
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 37 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
Frist I disconnected the water lines and power cord. Then I leaned the washer back against the wall. Removed the 2 pump retainers and then the pump. Next removed the 2 screws from the motor retainers and pulled off the retainers and motor. Then removed the 3 bolts from the Gear case. Then removed the cap from the top of the agitator with a flat screw driver. Then removed the bolt from the top of the gear shaft. and removed the auger and agitator assembly. Then removed the gear case from the washer. Next removed the slip ring and then the clutch from the top of the gear case. Next removed the 1/4" screws from cover of gear case and removed the cover. Found the top gear bad. Ordered the new gear and pinion kit. Couldn't find any part #'s to match what PartSelect had. Ordered the gear that they should that fit most washers. The pics they had up looked the same as the one that was bad. Had the new gear in 3 days put it back together and it still wouldn't work right. Took it apart again and looked at it and found a small clip on the bottom side of the gear was upside down. Fliped it over put the gear back in and ran the washer with the gear case out and it worked. Put it back together again. And learned a good lesson always watch how you take things apart for when it's time to put it back together!

Washer not spinning completely and at time not at all

  • Customer: Jason from Henderson KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 36 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
I have to admit that before attempting to replace the clutch, I had no clue how to do it. With the help of the diagram of the parts, I was able to access from the internet at PartSelect.com. I felt comfortable enough to attempt the repair because the diagram was easy to read and accurate.

Everything had to be accessed from the bottom of the machine. I tipped the machine backwards enough get under it. To replace the clutch, I had to remove the motor drive. To do so, I disconnected the electrial to the drive motor by simply unconnecting the quick connect harness. I then removed two screws from the two retainer brackets located one on top and one on the bottom. Once this was done the motor drive simply dropped down. I then removed the three bolts holding the gear case to the tub. I had to remove one bolt from inside the tub underneath the fabric softner dispenser. Once this was done the gear case slid out. The clutch sit on top of the gear case. I then simply removed the old clutch and installed the new clutch by reversing the process. The only real difficulty that I had was with the retainer ring. Once done, I reinstalled the gear case and motor drive. I would suggest replacing the direct-drive coupling at this time. I had earlier replaced the coupling hoping to solve the problem. The coupling was redesigned and is more likely to last longer than the orginal coupling.

Washer wouldn't spin or agitate. Made louder-than-usual noise during those cycles.

  • Customer: Paul from Boonton NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 33 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
1. Read many other repair stories for similar symptoms. PartSelect Forum was an excellent resource.

2. Posted my problem on PartSelect Forum and awaited reply. Read replies, and followed provided link to step-by-step guide for the procedure. PartSelect forum moderators were excellent advisors!

3. Performed the first half of the procedure to get to the diagnosed root cause. In some of the stories I had read, people had turned the washer on its back or tilted it up to get at the area from underneath. I am so glad I followed the conventional instructions, and left the washer standing and simply removed the cabinet. It was surprisingly easy. There's a reason why it was designed that way. I am also glad that I chose to remove the pump from the motor. While it is true that you don't *have* to remove the pump from the motor to get at the coupling...it hardly seems to make sense to remove the hoses instead. Removing the pump was incredibly easy, and by doing so, I never had to break any "wet" connections, and not one drop of water spilled over the course of the entire repair. (Even though I forgot to shut the water supply valves before I got started. Ooops! At least I remembered to unplug the power cord.)

4. But despite the open valves, the galoshes came into play not for their ability to repel water, but for their value as an electric insulator. I wrapped the galoshes around the handle of a long screwdriver when I discharged the motor's capacitor. :)

5. Ordered parts. Washed clothes in sink. Waited. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited some more. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited still more. Came very close to stopping payment to PartSelect because the very simple, commonly-requested part I ordered, which was supposedly in stock on the day I ordered it, didn't ship until the day it was supposed to arrive--even though I paid extra for expedited shipping. And I was never sent an e-mail to warn me that the parts were going to be delayed. And then to top it all off, rather than make up for some of the lost time caused by their own error, and ship it overnight, PartSelect chose to ship it 2nd day. All that good will generated by the excellent website completely evaporated by the failure to correctly complete the simple tasks that the business has needed to be good at since before computers were even invented. I will never use PartSelect again.

6. Prying the old coupler halves off of the motor and the washer took some effort, but was not overly difficult. I wound up removing the motor mounting plate in order to get better access to the half that was stuck on / needed to be attached to the drive train of the washing machine. Mounting plate was a breeze to remove and attach with a socket driver. I used one of those stubby flat-head screwdrivers to pry the old parts off. This was the one time where I thought it might have been easier to have the washing machine tilted up or on its back...but I muddled on through without even removing the bottom panel, and it wasn't too awkward. I used a large socket and a full-size hammer to not-so-gently tap the new parts into place. Putting all of the parts back together took a bit longer than it took to break them down, but it was easy. The instructions for putting the electronic control panel into test mode had been rolled up and taped to the cabinet inside the top panel. After I put the cabinet back on, I used those instructions to test all the cycles before fastening the top panel and testing the machine with an actual load. So far, so good...

bad water pump

  • Customer: carrie from magna UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
We received the part we needed in a timely manner. First we took the back off the washer and found out later we didn't have to, because you can access the pump from the bottom of the Whirlpool washer and when we turned it on it's back a brass colored pin about 2" long fell out and we have no idea where it goes.Looking around the bottom frame we saw another pin in a plastic little cup mounted to the frame and another empty cup .So we changed the pump easy,put the pin in the empty cup and the washer runs great! That's our story.Still don't know what the pin is for,it's not on the parts schematic.

Cold water slow to fill sometimes, Hot water no problems.

  • Customer: David from Knightdale NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 31 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
The hot water worked fine on the washer. The cold water would sometimes work/fill the tub, but would only produce a trickle of water at other times.

There were 2 screws to remove at the top back of the washer (attaching the console) two nut screws at the bottom left and right and another bottom center. There were also two screws on front of the console attaching it to the top of the washer. All of those are easy to remove.

The water dispenser (this is the opaque plastic part that fills the tub) has two rigid/hard plastic tabs that hold it to the back of the washer. They were difficult to move/push into the slots to release. It is probably a better idea to push the water dispenser down a bit and jiggle it off the top of the tub then to try and slide those plastic attachments over and down out of the slots on the back of the washer. I spent the most time doing that than anything else.

Also do not forget to detach the rigid steel clips that hold the console on top of the washer, a standard screwdriver or pliers work fine.

Unscrewed (with socket wrench) the mounting plate for the water inlet valve and pulled off the electrical connectors. Had a bit of trouble holding the hose clamp and pulling out the nozzle, but got it. I used pliers for this, but think in retrospect a vice grip would have been easier.

Put the new part in (it came with an installation sheet, very easy to follow) and remounted/hooked everything back up again. Reattached the back of the washer, screwed everything back in and put the console back on the top and screwed that in. Remember to put the steel clips back in that you remove in the beginning, otherwise the console will be loose.

Attached the Hot water hose, then the cold, turned on the water connections from the house and plugged the washer back in.

After pushing it back into position, I turned it on using the cold setting. A big glob of gray sediment shot out and the cold water was gushing in a lot stronger than it ever did before. Hot water came in faster too.

It fixed the problem. Working great now.

Spin cycle stopped working

  • Customer: Brent from Highlands Ranch CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 29 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Farly easy repair, once I figured out the problem. The clutch assebly plastic part broke (over 15 yrs old), which is the part that engages the drum for the spin cycle. Following the very helpful diagram on Part Select, I removed the agitator cap and bolt from inside the agitator assembly, and pulled the assembly out of the drum. Then I put the washer on its side and removed the three bolts and two hose claps that hold the motor assembly. I pulled the motor assembly along with the drive shaft out to access the clutch/brake assembly area, removed the broken plastic drive piece and re-assembled.

I smelled smoke and then it quit working

  • Customer: Paul from Lakewood WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug the electrical chord and disconnect the water supply after you have turned it off. Drain all water you can by putting the drain hose into a bucket or water container lower then the drain hose. Remove the two screws at base of the front panel. Then go to the back side of the machine remove the two screws at the top of the back panel, this allow you to remove the top switch panel. Remove the two screws at the bottom outside corners of the back panel and then you can lift the panel up and away from the base. I leaned the back against my dryer because I did not have a helper. Go to the front of the machine, lift the lid and grasp with one hand the machine's sheet metal lift and pull it off the base. There are two metal clips attaching the pump to the motor. The pump slides off and I did not have to remove the hoses. Unclip the electrical connectors from the motor and capacitor. The motor is mounted with two clips with a screw secure it in place. Unscrew and unclip and the motor should slide out. Be sure to inspect the direct drive coupler, the parts not too expensive. I had replaced mine just 4 months ago so I was good to go. Reverse the procedure and you should be in business.

Ring Balancer had come loose and broke releasing the liquid inside that helps balance the basket.

  • Customer: Al from Spring TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 29 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws on top and at the bottom that holds the controls in place to the washer itself. I then removed the control panel and disconnected it off of the washer. I then released the two metal holders that keep the back of the washer in place with the front frame of the washer. I slid the metal exterior forward and away from the rest of the washer exposing the basket. I removed the top layer that holds the ring balancer in place and then was able to reach the ring balancer itself. I removed the old one and discarded it replacing it with the new ring balancer. I pressed it down onto the top of the basket as if you were putting a top back on to a tuppaware dish. I then put the top layer back on and then proceeded to put the exterior of the washer sliding it back in to place. The whole process took maybe about 45-55 minutes and it went relatively smooth especially after knowing how to remove each piece from observing a maintenance job one day.

Slow hot water, cold water was flowing normal.

  • Customer: David from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected power.

Next I turned off the hot and cold water supply hose bibs.

Once that's done, I pulled out the washing machine to get to the hose connections on the back of the machine, removed and drained the residual water in the hoses.

Note: Since the hoses were fairly new, I reused the supply hoses but replaced the rubber washers. However, if your hoses are older than a couple of years, it's cheap insurance to go ahead and replace since you're right there.

Next was to remove the two end caps of the control unit on top of the machine. This exposes the two screws that is then removed so that the control panel can rotate up and back.

Once the panel is open, I removed the single connector attached to the top of the machine. This leads to the lid open switch.

Followed by removing the two spring clips with the help of a flat blade screwdriver and pliers to keep the clips from flying off.

Once the clips are removed, the top/front shell of the washer is free to rotate foward. At this point, it can be removed or just laid to the side (forward).

This opens up the area to be serviced.

Disconnect the quick release wire connectors, taking note that the red connector is for the hot water control valve solenoid. disconnect the mix hose going to the tub from the valve by using pliers to disengage the hose clamp (catch the residual water with a sutable container). Then I removed the old valve assembly by removing the two screws holding the assembly to the back panel.

Follow the instructions enclosed with the part to preassemble and install the valve.

Reassemble by reversing the process. Check for leaks, test hot and cold water cycle and you're done.

It actually took me more time to gather my tools and pull out the washing machine than the actual replacement of the part!

Oh, by the way, I've purchased parts from PartSelect.com many times. Each and every time has been an outstanding experience. Quality parts, fast shipping and great prices! It's always been a pleasure!

washer shakes violently on spin cycle

  • Customer: aaron from peoria AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the washing machine cabinet. Use a large flat head screwdriver to pry/wedge the tub suspension apart and gain access to the pad locations one at a time. My old pads were completely gone, so there was no need to remove them. Clip the new pads into place and re-install the cabinet.

This completely solved the violent chaking problem. There was no need to replace springs.

Washer would fill/empty but would not agitate nor spin

  • Customer: Ted from SOUTH MILWAUKEE WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 25 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.

Severe water leak

  • Customer: Noel from Pollock ID
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
1) Unplugged electrical cord
2) Removed hot/cold water hoses
3) Took drain hose from laundry room recepatcle
4) Moved washing machine to area where I could lay it down on its back (very important for easy fix)
5) Found (easy accessible in my case) water pump with an inlet and outlet water hose held on with spring clamps.
6) Removed each of the two clamps with pliers and each hose by twisting loose
7) Remove two metal clips holding pump to motor housing
8) Slide pump off shaft - removal is finished!
9) Reversed process for installation, making sure to gently align pump housing when the pump is aligned with the shaft
[probably took less than 15 minutes]

Washer filled v e r y slowly

  • Customer: Jonathan from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I'd noticed for a while that our 15-year-old Kenmore washer was filling slowly, but when it started to take 30 minutes to fill to the "medium" level, I knew something was really wrong. There was plenty of water pressure, so I replaced a hose that was loaded with minerals and cleaned the filter (also clogged with minerals). But that didn't help! So I ordered a new water inlet valve, and replaced that. There's nothing tricky about the repair -- the hardest part is opening and closing the washer, for which I found instructions online. (Even so, it's the most time-consuming part of the project.) The result is the washer now fills as fast as when it was new. Just for fun, I took apart the old valve and expected to find it encrusted with minerals, but it looked fine, so I'm not sure where the actual breakdown was. But since the part only cost $25 -- less than a service call, for sure -- I was very happy to use a half hour of my time and keep the machine going a while longer.

broken pump and burned out motor

  • Customer: Anthony from Webster NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 24 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
The repair itself was very simply, probably largely due to the design of the machine which made getting to, and replacing the two faulty parts a cinch. Just unscrew the two screws on the motor brackets which hold the motor down, and remove the brackets. Then remove the two smaller brackets which hold the pump to the motor. Then remove the two clamps and hoses from the pump. Lastly disconnect the power supply from the motor and the pump and motor will then come out as one unit. Simply reverse the process when reinstalling the new pump and motor. I used a bit of oil to lubricate the new motor shaft but I am sure it probably isn't necessary. The job should take no more than half an hour tops.

Water drips inside washing machine, suspected the inlet valve needs to be replaced

  • Customer: PHU from Laguna Hills CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Before ordering part, took the old valve out to make sure it looks similar to the one described online by Partselect. After ordering online, put things back together since I expected delivery would take 5-7 days. That night the water stopped dripping and has been OK ever since. I suspected that there was some rust in the electrical connections. By disconnecting and reconnecting the terminal, the electrical connection is better and water stopped dripping. Still keep the new part just in case (which came overnight after I ordered it).
All Instructions for the 11016212503
16-30 of 897