Models > 11016101690 > Instructions

11016101690 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11016101690 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11016101690
61-75 of 928
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would not change steps during washing cycle

  • Customer: Timothy from St. Petersburg FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
1. unplug washer
2. move washer out from wall.
3. remove 4 screws that hold control panel; 2 screws on face and 2 screws an back
4. lift control panel to reach plug for lid switch
and unplug old switch
5. open lid and remove 2 screws that hold lid switch on top opening; remove nut that holds ground wire from lid switch
6. remove old lid switch
7. new lid switch needs to be modified to fit in position,i.e. break tube surrounding wires of lid switch to be 1/2 length.
8. plug in new switch at control panel
9. screw in lid switch at lid opening and reattach ground wire.
10. screw control panel in place

water leaking from pump

  • Customer: michael from westmoreland city PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the clips. Pulled out the old pump. After trying to get the new pump on the shaft of the motor, I realized that some corrosion had built up on the motor shaft. I got a small tack hammer and very lightly tapped the shaft to remove the corrosion. The pump then slid on the shaft with no problem. Replaced clips. Job complete.
The corrosion on the shaft cracked the plastic piece where the shaft connects and this is what caused the problem in the first place.

Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.

  • Customer: Kim from West Liberty OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 15 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).

Washer worked fine but wouldn't spin. Hot smell. I could turn tub by hand to help it get started and it would spin okay. Silver clutch cover was very hot to touch.

  • Customer: Kevin from Disputanta VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled back off machine. A real pain. Not something you have to do although once the back is off, the whole cabinet just lifts off. Idealy: Remove agitator and reatiner clip, lay washer on it's side or face, Remove electrical connector form motor, remove two hoses from pump, (motor can be remove easily from transmission if desired. It's lighter), remove three 1/2" bolts, lift transmission w/clutch assembly out. Pay attention to orientation of flat washer and clip (remove). The cluch band is indside the silver cover. Pich together with pliers to relieve tension and lift out. There are three while pads that wear away and glaze over when they get too hot from slipping. Reassemble. Ths is from memory so I hope I didn't forget anything. Time to do it this way would probably only be 45 minutes.

Wash machine, wouldn't spin dry the close. The pump still worked to drain the water.

  • Customer: Matthew from Albany MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test

Tub banged against the front of case during spin

  • Customer: Peter from Boca Raton FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.

unbalanced load...knocking sound.

  • Customer: Edward from Easthampton MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

Lid Switch failed

  • Customer: David from Roanoke VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I didn't think this would be particularly difficult but it was easier than I expected.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE

Remove the two screws (one on the right , one on the left) That allows the control panel to swing up.

Lift the panel up.
There is a plastic wiring connector that is secured in the top of the washer housing. Press the sides of the top of the connector and remove the top connector. (The bottom part of the connector will still be secured to the housing)

There will be two clamps one on the right side under the control panel, and one on the right.
Use a screwdriver to pop out these clamps. This is where I used the washcloth to place between the screwdriver and the washing machine body to avoid scratching the surface.

Once you pop out these clamps, the housing is free from the tub frame.
Twist the housing just a little and tilt it forward. IT will just slide off the frame.
You can now take the housing wherever you want to more easily get to the switch. It is mounted in the housing.
Take a good look at the way the switch is mounted and the wiring tube is secured because you will need to at least have an idea how to put it back into place.

There will be two clips that hold the wiring tube in place. One on the side and one on the top. Use a screwdriver (and the washcloth if necessary) to loosen and remove the clips.

There are two screws that hold the switch to the housing. Remove these and keep the screws. You will need them to attach the new switch.

Now the only thing keeping you from removing the switch is the connector which you saw earlier before removing the housing. Squeeze the sides of the clip and free it from the housing.

Mount the new switch into the housing and route the wiring. You may have to use a small pair of pliers to squeeze the clips back together to hold the wiring tube to the housing.
Attach the green ground wire to the housing frame just like the one you removed to get the wring tube off the housing.

Push the connector end through the hole designed for it until it snaps into place.

Replacing the Housing back on the frame:
Let the housing all the way down, and slide the front lip of the housing UNDER the front brace of the tub frame.
Carefully let the housing lower onto the side rails (the housing will go on TOP of the side rails).
You may have to gently twist the housing to let it fall into the proper place.
Take the clips and secure the housing back to the tub frame.
These just POP back into place with applied pressure.
Re-connect the lid switch to the control panel wiring connector.
Swing the control panel back down into place and replace the screws on the left and right sides.

PLUG IN THE MACHINE

Viola!! You are ready to perform your favorite laundry task.(Yeah RIGHT!!) Or just yell "HONEY the washing machine is ready for you." Anyway, after the swelling in your eyes go down you will see that your washer is ready to use.

This took me about 40 minutes but some of that time was spent understanding just what to do. With these instructions, you may be able to do it in 30 minutes.

I hope this helps you. Kudos to the Whirlpool Engineers who made this machine easy to work on. This is the 3rd repair I have done on mine. (Rebuilt the agitator drive and replaced the timer) For 18 years of use.. that ain't bad. I think it is good for another 5 years at least. Total cost for this repair: Part=$37, Shipping=$7, Time spent=40 minutes. Not bad considering a serviceman is going to charge $90 labor for the first hour plus parts.

water leaking during run cycle

  • Customer: michael from weymouth MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
flip machine back remove two spring clamps and hoses remove two spring clamps and water pump save $500.+on a new washer

machine was out of balance

  • Customer: RUSSELL from SOUTHOLD NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the washing machine from the wall and found a broken spring on the floor. Began disassembling the unit before accessing your sight. (Later I viewed your video of the more simple dis assembly).Used your parts breakdown to identify the 6 parts I needed (3 springs and 3 retainers),and ordered them. They arrived on time and as per the video, installed them with ease and reassembled the unit. My wife is very happy. Thank you, Rusty

spin cycle was not working / poor

  • Customer: Craig from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive assembly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.

No agitation, No spin, pump OK

  • Customer: Ernest from Midlothian VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

WILL NOT SPIN

  • Customer: Daniel from Temple TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
THIS IS A RELATIVELY NEW WASHER AND FAILED EARLY. MY PREVIOUS WHIRLPOOL WASHER LASTED 20 YEARS WITHOUT ANY REPAIRS.
1. FIRST INQUIRED ABOUT THE SPIN PROBLEM IN PARTSELECT. MACHINE WILL NOT SPING UNLESS MANUALY FORCED THEN IT WILL TAKE OFF BUT WEAK.
2.PARTSELECT SUGGESTED A CLUTCH PROBLEM. ORDERED THE PART THAT CAME FAST. WHEN I TRIED REMOVING THE SHAFT HUB WITH A HAMMER AND CHISEL IT WILL NOT GET LOOSE SO I OPTED ORDERING THE SPECIAL WRENCH TO LOOSEN THE TUB HUB.
3.I PUT THE MACHINE ON ITS BACK AND LOOSENED THE PUMP RETAINING CLIPS. DO NOT REMOVE THE HOSES FROM THE PUMP. MOVE THE PUMP AWAY FROM THE MOTOR SHAFT. REMOVE THE MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AND SET ASIDE.
4.REMOVE THE THREE BOLTS HOLDING THE GEARBOX-MOTOR ASSEMPLY AND PULL IT OUT OF THE TUB.
5.PUT THE ASSEMBLY ON A TOWELWITH SHAFT UP AND REMOVE THE SEPARATOR WASHER FROM THE OLD CLUTCH THAT IS SITTING ON THE GEARBOX. THEN REMOVE THE C-RETAINING CLIP FROM THE SHAFT.
6.PRY OUT THE WIRE RETAINING CLIP FROM THE CLUTCH AND PULL THE OLD CLUTCH OUT OF THE SHAFT.
7.THE CLUTCH KIT I ORDERED CAME WITH A PLASTIC BRAKE TO CLUTCH CAM SO I REPLACED IT TOO, JUST REMOVE THE RETAINIG CLIP FROM THE BRAKE THAT IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TUB AND REPLACED THE PART.
8.INSTALLED THE NEW CLUTCH AND THE RETAINING CLIPS IN REVERSE ORDER. REPLACE ALL PARTS THAT CAME WITH THE KIT. THE NEW CLUTCH SPRING WAS ALREADY IN PLACE.
9.PUT THE ASSEMBLY BACK INTO THE TUB AND RE-INSTALL ALL THE OTHER ITEMS IN THE SAME ORDER. IT SPINS GOOD NOW!
10.WHILE REPLACING PARTS, METHODICALLY CLEAN ALL THE LINT FROM THE MOTOR AND FROM UNDER THE MACHINE. THE GEARBOX SHOWED SIGNS OF LEAKING OIL SO ITS A QUESTION OF COST. I LEFT IT THERE UNTIL IT FAILS THEN I'LL BUY A NEW MACHINE.

Two leaking hoses in my washing machine

  • Customer: Marc from Morton Grove IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Put the machine on its side. Remove old hoses and screw new ones into place. Done in under 20 minutes.

washer kept stopping - had to hit lid

  • Customer: Nancy from Montgomery City MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
first I had to work in a closet, so couldn't get body off, just the back. The part removed and replaced really easy. Dropped a socket and a clip, had to get my reacher to get them. Difficulty was in getting the back, back on. Now everything works just fine and all the laundry is almost done.
All Instructions for the 11016101690
61-75 of 928