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Models > 10656532400 > Instructions

10656532400 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for 10656532400 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 10656532400
61-75 of 1,499
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water to ice maker not shutting off; overflowing

  • Customer: g anthony from salt lake city, UT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 29 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
1. turn off power.
2. pop off ice maker cover to access motor assembly.
3. remove three screws to assembly.
4. pull off assembly.
5. attach new assembly making sure metal arm and plastic
ice tray rod align with assembly.
6. screw assembly onto unit.
7. replace cover.
8. plug in refrigerator.
9. enjoy ice again with no leakage into freezer.

Compressor "grounded" and quit running

  • Customer: Mike from Baytown, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 52 of 104 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the compressor with the new one I purchased from you. Installed new parts and recharged unit. The refrigerator / freezer is working better than new. Thanks for the great deal on the compressor. It was here in 3 days. All the parts fit exactly and had no difficulty in the installation or startup. The directions for the wiring were a great help also. Thanks again.

The ice maker stopped producing ice.

  • Customer: Robert E. from Payson, UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
If you remove the bottom vent panel of the refrigerator there are two schematics for the refrigerator. One for the fridge and one for the icemaker. The icemaker has an emitter and a receiver that will tell the icemaker when it is ok to dump ice and add water. The receiver has an LED that blinks different codes. The codes give you an idea where your problem is located. In my case it coded out to be the optics (emitter and receiver). Replacement of the parts involves the removal of three screws on each component and disconnecting a wire harness on each component. Install the new components by following the removal process in reverse. The total cost was $80.00. This was half the price Sears wanted for the parts and about the same price to have a Sears repairman just show up at the house.

ice maker did not work. Water came in, however, unit woud not eject ice.

  • Customer: Larry from Morgan, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 28 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the refrigerator, then I taped ice shield up to top of refrigerator and taped the little flap on the left side of the refrigerator to side wall then I unscrewed one screw on the right side that holds the plug cover, which was then removed. I then updid the little latches on the icemaker and pulled the old ice maker out far enough to unplug the connector, which was not easy, but did unplug. I then unscrewed the three screws with the nutdriver and attached the bottom cover to the new ice maker. I then slid the new icemaker far enough to connect the electrical connector, then slid the new icemaker in until it latched. I replaced the connector cover and untaped the two items that had been taped and pluged the refrigerator into the wall socket. The new icemaker has produced ice every since.

ice maker did not make ice

  • Customer: DAVID from TINLEY PARK, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 30 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

My ice maker stopped producing ice. It would dispense ice that was already made and the water dispenser worked.

  • Customer: Glenn from San Marcos, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I looked at some online diagnostics info and the owner's manual. The "error code" blinking red light on the receiver unit (located adjacent to the ice bucket) indicated that the emitter/receiver units were faulty. I located the parts on the PartSelect website (their price was less than half of what they wanted on the Sears website) and ordered them. I didn't pay for the expedited shipping and still received the parts within two days of ordering. Powered down the refrigerator, three simple screws to remove each cover for the emitter and receiver, unplug the old units and pop in the new units, replace the covers for each unit, repowered the fridge and, voila, you've got ice. I completed the repairs in less than 10 minutes. Couldn't be happier with the price, the diagnostics links/info or the prompt service. Next time I have an appliance issue, my first stop will be this website.

Drawer was dropped and broken in one corner

  • Customer: Rolando from Edgewood, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 28 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the old one. Removed the handle attachment and placed it on the new drawer and slid it in place. Just that easy.

One finger of the spring steel peice that holds the ice maker and water dispenser levers out broke.

  • Customer: Ron from Newton, IA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 27 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screw holding the spring steel retainer/clip using a quarter inch ratchet wrench a swivel with a quarter inch socket and a short extention, then just installed the new one. This spring steal through the door ice maker / water despenser lever spring was an easy fix.
I found you by googling appliance repair parts, and found your site really easy to use. I couldn't believe how fast the part came and the very reasonable price. I put you on my web browser's favorites.
Thanks,
Ron

water dispenser not working

  • Customer: Teddie from Sherman Oaks, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 28 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
Remove side handle from the freezer door ...pop out the black panel from the ice/water dispenser... you need to bend it a little bit to remove... un snap the electrical connections ...the plastic connectors, not from the fridge or the back of the panel,there are plastic connectors (white) in the middle between the fridge & the plastic outside panel.I needed a thin knife to lift the connector snaps to pull the pieces apart. It's not a bad idea to note how they match up so you can put it back properly. unscrew the white panel. There are two screws remove panel.I had to cut the micro switch out of the old style panel. the new panel is much more precise. By the way, if you are replacing the micro switch, it's a good thing to know, there are two. One is for the ice maker, the other is for the water dispenser. You might as well replace both at the same time even if one is working it will save you having to do this again anytime soon.Snap the micro chip into place & thread the wires back through the control panel screw the panel back into the door snap the wires togeather. now test the water dispenser just to be sure. Now arm wrestle the panel back in to the tracks. This is the hardest part. Why it doesn't just slide in is beyond me. Must have been designed by a guy!!! It really is easy & it saved me $300.

Icemaker arm was broken

  • Customer: Jason from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 27 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Stopped Cooling

  • Customer: David from Navarre, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 27 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the back cover to gain access to the compressor. I unpluged the start device and cap from the compressor. Replaced the items with the new ones. Plugged in the refridge and it worked. Whirlpool/Kitchenaid appliances are problems. I won't buy another.

Broken Shelf Bracket

  • Customer: Thomas from Leesburg, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Removed food itmes on broken shelf. Removed old glass shelf cover. Removed broken shelf bracket. Installed new shelf bracket. Intalled new glass shelf cover. Replaced food items back on shelf

meat pan and crisper pan broken runners

  • Customer: James from Troy, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
due to over filling and closing the drawers with the door and kicking, the plastic runners broke. Also, over filling the drawers did not help.
AS for the repair, the only difficulty was getting the right drawer in the right spot. Since I replaced both the veggie and meat drawer at the same time, I got them confused. On drawer is longer than the other. other than that, no problem.

Ice machine motor quit

  • Customer: Rod from Paulden, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 24 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Ice machine would not turn, dispense, or crush. Made ice fine. First, replaced switch for $7, did not fix it. Second, replaced motor for $80. Old motor was metal, new motor is plastic, but replaced it in 20 minutes, works like a champ. Inside freezer door, took off shelf under the ice maker, unplugged frig, removed two screws and cover plate, removed four screws on motor bracket, unplugged motor, plugged in new motor, replaced bracket and 4 screws, replaced cover, plugged frig in...Perfect!

Frige Door Wouldn't Stay Closed, Would open when freezer door was closed.

  • Customer: Michael from Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Parts arrived at 2:30PM.

Read instructions, gathered tools, and went to work. I'd already watched an online video at your site on how to do the repair.

Removed the hinge cover covering the hinge top by using a nut driver to remove the single screw holding it in place. (The video described an older frige and it did not have a screw. I figured that out when I finally went and got a ladder. I had tried to pop it out like the video shows.) There are three screws holding the hinge top in place. I tried using the nut driver to remove the screws but they were pretty firmly in place. I resorted to using my ratchet wrench and that made it easy. (Keep track of your screws, one of mine rolled under a cereal box on top of the frige and I thought I would never find it.)

I had emptied out all the items on the door of the frige, removing the shelves. It was easy to lift the door off of the bottom hinge and lay it on its side against the ladder. At this point I had my son hold the door steady (its kind of unwieldy and 'slippery' when you are trying to remove a screw from the bottom of the door.)

I removed the screw that held the plastic Door Closer, Upper Cam using the nut driver. I used a straight bladed screw driver to pry the old part out of the door (it has an insert for the hinge pin and it had been in place a long time). I also cleaned off the bottom of the frige door (you would be surprised what gets stuck on there - obviously someone spilled oranged juice on the floor and it splashed up on the bottom of the door). The old part had a lot of particle dust that came off it when I removed it. The new part popped right into place and I screwed it back in. The video shows that the repairman had to use a drill and tap set to rethread a larger hole but I just put the old screw back and it held fine. The video also showed the repairman adjusting the Door Stop Bracket but I didn't have to do that, the new cam installation wasn't impeded by the bracket.

I moved to the frige cabinet (again, good to have a second pair of hands to keep track of the door and not let it get damaged while I turned my attention to the Door Closer, Lower Cam. I used the nut driver to remove the screw holdin it to the hinge bottom. It came off easily (it practically fell apart and turned to dust). I placed the new cam and screwed it in using the old screw. No problem.

You could put the door back on with one person but it helps to have two. One to manhandle the door and the other to place it on the lower hinge post.

I put the upper hinge back on and put in the three screws but I left them lose so that I could adjust the door. When I tighted the single screw closest to the door after positioning the door, we tested how it opened and it was hitting the side of the interior cabinet when it closed - you could feel it dragging and it made a clunk/swoosh sound. We readjusted the door using the outside upper corner as a guide and retightened the screw. This time there was no problem. We tighted the other two screws using the ratchet wrench and then put the plastic hinge cover back on with the single screw using the nut driver.

Took us about 25 minutes and made my wife very happy (biggest benefit). The door now 'locks' open and 'locks' closed just like when we bought it and the two doors are aligned (level accross the top) which should have been a dead giveaway that the door closing cams had worn down.

Done by 3:00PM.
All Instructions for the 10656532400
61-75 of 1,499