Models > 10655606400 > Instructions

10655606400 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for 10655606400 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 10655606400
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Replaced Two Broken Tracks

  • Customer: Steve from Milton GA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 476 of 475 people found this instruction helpful
The old tracks had been falling out consistently, causing the deli tray to fall on top of the food below it (which included the eggs, though none were broken since they were in a hard plastic container).

I had some difficulty getting the new track installed, however. All the parts lined up, but I just couldn't get the tracks to slide into place. After some brute force and about 10 minutes, they were finally installed.

Best thing about it is that it doesn't appear that these tracks are coming out easily! Mission accomplished!

No ice

  • Customer: Daniel from Suwanee GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 327 of 391 people found this instruction helpful
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.

Ice maker stopped functioning

  • Customer: Phil from Auberry CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 253 of 264 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the icemaker service door... gently pry the door pins from the hinge sockets. Remove the 3 screws from the under side of the icemaker with a nut driver (1/4"). Gently remove the icemaker . It's a tight fit between the top of the compartment and the icemaker lower support tray. Next, disconnect the electrical connector at the right side. You're done! Reverse procedure for installing. Good luck. Remember, your working with cold plastic...take your time and don't force too much.

When the remote water was turned on, water was pouring onto floor from rear of refrigerator

  • Customer: Mark from Wolfeboro NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 140 of 167 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the fridge, then using the socket set I removed the cardboard shield from the lower rear of the refrigerator. I located the leaking water from a cracked solenoid water valve just inside the lower cavity directly behind the water intake line. Removing the valve was a snap - most of the valve plastic compression couplings unscrewed and came off. The metal compression fittings required an adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers to hold the solenoid unit steady. A couple of hex nuts kept the solenoid bolted to the refrigerator frame and came off easily with the socket. Two simple push-on electrical plugs came right off just by pulling on them. The new valve unit wasn't exactly like the original one. It had push-on instead of compression water fittings and the plugs were oriented differently. I recommend studying which water lines entered which port on the valve because I was a little unsure after I took the old one apart (whoops). After figuring out how to put it pack together, the push-on water fittings were even easier, and the unit was scewed back into place on the fridge frame. The electric plugs have different sized contacts so you can't mix them up. I put the cardboard shield back on. Viola!

Refigerator door was not closing all the way if not pushed shut.

  • Customer: Norbert from Sugar Land TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 127 of 130 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is closing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.

Ice Maker would not stop making ice.

  • Customer: Vince from El Cajon CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 124 of 136 people found this instruction helpful
First, I tested the ice maker "switch" that actually just covers the beam that regulates the ice maker. In the "off" position, it still made ice. Then, I removed the three screws on the cover over the transmitter and disconnected the circuit board at the wire connector. It stopped. After ordering and receiving the new transmitter and receiver boards, I replaced both boards. They are located on either side of the freezer compartment under panels held in place by three screws. Probably saved 150 to 200 bucks.

Ice maker would't fill with water

  • Customer: Jerry from Cooper City FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 113 of 126 people found this instruction helpful
I first read your forum which was extremely helpful! I checked the continuity of the electromagnetic valve and got a 0 reading on the ice fill valve. The valve next to it which is for the water in the door had a 300ohm reading on my meter. This meant there was a broken wire somewhere in the coil which confirmed the valve was bad. I tried to get the part locally but was told it was on back order! Ordered it thru Part Select at the regular shipping rates and to my surprise it arrived the very next day!
The valve was the new style where you push in the tubing until it locks. I carefully trimmed each tube square with a sharp razor knife, the old valve used plastic compression fittings which had to be cut off.One of the inlet tubes was smaller than the opening on the valve. I then noticed that there was a reducer in the box that snapped into place making the line a perfect fit! Even though the inlet valve looked different than the original it was an easy installation. After replacing it, I had ice again! Totally impressed with the service and how quickly they shipped the parts on the same day! I will never again run around town trying to find parts! Thanks to all of the hard working employees at Part Select!

My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing

  • Customer: garth from forest lake MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 110 of 120 people found this instruction helpful
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!

External Ice Guide Broke a Tooth and Fell Off

  • Customer: Tracy from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 90 of 100 people found this instruction helpful
We waited two years to do this because we didn't want to hassle with a repair man to come out and charge us arm+leg for something so simple. Finally we searched and found the part on line. It came two days FASTER than promised. Kudos to Part Select.
Snapping it on was a breeze, although you do have to apply more pressure than feels comfortable with plastic clips. We can know get ice out of the external door system again.

Track broke that guided one of the drawers

  • Customer: Jeff from Springfield MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 79 of 84 people found this instruction helpful
I used the diagrams I found on line to order the part and then simply removed one track and installed the new one. Cleaned up all components and reinstalled the drawer. These tracks simply slide up and over to lock themselves into the bracket that attaches to the adjustable shelves bracket.

Ice Maker stopped working

  • Customer: Robert from Port Washington NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 83 of 97 people found this instruction helpful
With socket wrench un-screwed the 3 screws and pulled out the ice maker assembly.

Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)

However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.

Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.

Screwed in the new unit.

Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.

1 hour later ice was falling!

Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.

  • Customer: Cathy from Winter Park FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 80 of 88 people found this instruction helpful
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.

Refrigerator too warm, freezer fine

  • Customer: Bill from Andover MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 83 of 112 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the Diffuser and the Thermistor (the one in the refrigerator) at the same time. I was not sure what the problem was ahead of time except for the fact that no air was coming in from the freezer section; this is where the air diffuser is. I probably only needed to replace the diffuser.

I turned the circuit breaker for the refrigerator off. There was a small section of plastic covering the wires that run from the top console inside the refrigerator to the back of the refrigerator where the diffuser is. I took this off (one screw) and then the diffuser is connected in the refrigerator side with one screw. To push the diffuser from the freezer, I needed to take off a piece of plastic directing the flow of air from the freezer. I needed to move the ice maker forward a little; it moves forward easily (it sort of clips into place). Once the diffuser was visible from the freezer, I pushed it out or disconnected the four clips holding it in and it came right out. Once this is done, you simply unplug the old and plug in the new and put back in place. This took less than 15 minutes total time. Online diagrams makes ordering parts and fixing easy.

Once the new diffuser was in, I could tell I was golden because I was getting cold air. I guess this piece goes bad from time to time based on others experiences.

Warm Air Getting Into Freezer

  • Customer: David from Chesterfield MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 77 of 95 people found this instruction helpful
Patience is a virtue. The kit really works. 1st, lift the front plate of the ice dispencer by placing a flat head screw driver into the two slots at the bottom of the panel. When the panel is lifted up slightly at the bottom, push up on the panel to remove it. Careful not to break panel and the wires attached. Next, remove the wiring panel by removing the two screws on left and right sides. Then, unplug the old black ice cover from the wiring panel (this is the heating plug that you will nolonger need). Next, remove the parts and replace them with the parts in the kit, noting where each part comes from, etc. All parts in the kit are necessary and should be used. Some of the replacements need trial and error. Patience will be important. Also needed is a person that loves to solve problems, especially because the kit does not come with instructions. But the kit definitely works!

where ic e dispencer spring is held to door broke at mold

  • Customer: helen j from murrells inlet SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 69 of 81 people found this instruction helpful
after ordering ice dispencer repair kit, and removing the outer parts found out that the problem was the ice dispencer door shell . this part is no longer available.It seems to me that if whirlpool wants to have return customers they have to stand behind the product. Well I made a L bracket and drilled a hole to to recieve the spring keeper and glued this to the housing and used a 3 1/12"finishing nail as the pin all works fine
All Instructions for the 10655606400
1-15 of 1,206