10653204202 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
replacing parts only
the prices you had were great, now I see there was an increase in the parts.
thank you
thank you
Parts Used:
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JULIA from BRONX, NEW YORK, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
690 of 768 people
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No ice
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
Parts Used:
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Daniel from Suwanee, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
558 of 669 people
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Front Door Ice Wouldn't Work And Air Going Into Freezer
Thanks to the pictorial diagram, I was able to order correct parts. It was just a matter of removal of broken parts and replacing them. Ice maker now working and air is no longer getting into freezer which was freezing up ice maker. Thanks for timely delivery, now I am able to use ice dispenser, which I haven't used for long time. Thanks
Parts Used:
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BILL from BATESVILLE, MS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
492 of 592 people
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track of the pan become broken
Buy a new crisper pan,slide out old one ,slide in new one
Parts Used:
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Darrell from Cedar Bluff, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
422 of 444 people
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Refigerator door was not closing all the way if not pushed shut.
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is closing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
Parts Used:
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Norbert from Sugar Land, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
393 of 414 people
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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
Parts Used:
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garth from forest lake, MN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
396 of 476 people
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Drawer guides broken
Simply pulled out old drawer and replaced with new one. This broken drawer really bothered my wife so this simple repair earned me alot of points at home. Lord knows i can use all the extra points i can get. Thanks for the quick shipment of the part. 2 days from time of call to part on my door step. Thanks again
Parts Used:
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Paula from Chesterfield, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
316 of 409 people
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Both freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling
Compressor Start Divice kit, I took off back lower panel with the 1/4 inch nut driver, on the compressor their was a wire hook that held the starter in place used my plyers to unhook, pulled the unit off plug the new unit in reappled the clip it was so easy I had to exame it severl to time to make sure that was all their was to it. put the cover back on and turn the refrigerator on and it has work great, I did not install the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat it was not needed.
Parts Used:
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Laune from Front Worth, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
224 of 281 people
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Ice Maker would not stop making ice.
First, I tested the ice maker "switch" that actually just covers the beam that regulates the ice maker. In the "off" position, it still made ice. Then, I removed the three screws on the cover over the transmitter and disconnected the circuit board at the wire connector. It stopped. After ordering and receiving the new transmitter and receiver boards, I replaced both boards. They are located on either side of the freezer compartment under panels held in place by three screws. Probably saved 150 to 200 bucks.
Parts Used:
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Vince from El Cajon, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
191 of 214 people
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Clicking from underneath the fridge, and compressor engaging only intermittently
I diagnosed the problem as a bad relay. I detached the two sets of wires leading to the relay and compressor, then pulled the relay off the compressor. It rattled and small bits of detritus fell out from inside of the relay. The new relay came the next day. It did not rattle. It was identical and I simply did the reverse to reinstall.
Parts Used:
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Michael from Manvel, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
198 of 239 people
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External Ice Guide Broke a Tooth and Fell Off
We waited two years to do this because we didn't want to hassle with a repair man to come out and charge us arm+leg for something so simple. Finally we searched and found the part on line. It came two days FASTER than promised. Kudos to Part Select.
Snapping it on was a breeze, although you do have to apply more pressure than feels comfortable with plastic clips. We can know get ice out of the external door system again.
Snapping it on was a breeze, although you do have to apply more pressure than feels comfortable with plastic clips. We can know get ice out of the external door system again.
Parts Used:
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Tracy from Jacksonville, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
170 of 186 people
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Parts Used:
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Cathy from Winter Park, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
154 of 179 people
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The Water Dispensor Tubing Had Become Brittle And Broke .
Removed the face plate. Removed a few screws and unpluged a few electrical connectors and pulled apart. Removed the holding bracket and clear tubing from door. Cut new tubing at an angle to push through conduit. Reinstalled new bracket and re-installed electrical connectors. Snapped face trim on and bleed air out of system. . Water ran great.
Parts Used:
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Conrad from Tucson, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
207 of 344 people
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Refrigerator Door quit closing on it's own......
Door quit closing on it's own......
** Order the following from www.partselect.com
Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495
Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641
1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done
Thanks PartSelect !
** Order the following from www.partselect.com
Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495
Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641
1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done
Thanks PartSelect !
Parts Used:
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T.w. from Batesville, AR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
140 of 153 people
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Ice Maker stopped working
With socket wrench un-screwed the 3 screws and pulled out the ice maker assembly.
Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)
However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.
Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.
Screwed in the new unit.
Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.
1 hour later ice was falling!
Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)
However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.
Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.
Screwed in the new unit.
Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.
1 hour later ice was falling!
Parts Used:
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Robert from Port Washington, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
135 of 154 people
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