10651552103 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the refrigerator door (after taking everything out of the shelves). Took the old Lower Door Closing Cam off (it was totally worn down), installed the new one, rehung the door. Rehanging the door took a couple of tries to get it properly aligned. Very easy fix, We thought we had to replace the refrigerator since it is 14 years old, but this fixed the problem completely!

Watched Parts Select YouTube video for demonstration of installation. Went smoothly.

We moved into a house that we are renting. The whirlpool refrigerator was missing the the ice shoot. The landlord wouldn't hire someone to install one. I am %95 blind. I went on PartSelect , entered the refrigerator and they had an easy blow up diagram. I ordered the part and watched a video on how to install it. When the part came in my son watched the video and had it installed. Hats off to PartSelect for their great web site .

remove contents of door-----------hardest part of chore remove top hinge cover remove three top hinge screws remove door and lay on table remove two screws holding black plastic cam piece in door, remove black plastic piece (slightly held in by some type of mastic) just pull till it comes our insert new piece, insert two screws lubricate parts mount door on hinge pin insert tip hinge pin and plate and fasten with three screws attach cover............reload refrigerator door taking opportunity to throw out old bottles and mystery jars Finis

1. Unplug the electric plug. 2 Either be in a well lighted place or get a flashlite. 3. Remove all food from top shelf. 4. Remove the knobs from both controls by pulling on them or use pliers to grab the center and pull. 5. Use the thin bladed knife and gently slip the knife under the thin plastic panel that covers the two controls and pop it off. 6.Go in back of the control panel and remove the two hex headed screws that holds the panel onto the roof of the refrigerator.7. Locate the right hand control, and use a philips screw driver to remove two philips screws that hold the temperature control body in place. and remove the wires from the terminals by pulling them with a long nose pliers.8. Locate the white panels that cover the thermostat sensor and remove the screws holding them onto the frig body. slip the long thin tube out of the plastic piece it is formed to fit.9.Draw on paper the shape and measure the deminsions,of the long thin tube. Straighten out the tube and remove the plastic covering it. Now slip that tubing over the new piece.10. Form the tubing into the odd shaped holder and gently place all of the new asssembly against the frig wall and cover with the two white panels that you removed to get to the long sensor tube. 11. Reassemble the controls in the same order you took it apart. Plug the frig back in to the electricity and set the control on 5 and it should run. Watch for a period to hear the unit cycle on and off. You are a genius and have saved at least 150 dollars.

1. I first confirmed that the problem was a bad Infrared Ice making control board (Watched flashing of red light on right side of freezer - solid light would not occur when holding flap on left side of freezer). 2. I unplugged refridg,3. unscrewed both sides of the control unit and disconnected wire clips to the electronic boards. 4.popped in new Boards on both sides and connected clips onto each board. 5. Screwed the boards and covers to walls of freezer. 6. Plugged power back into wall and checked Red light again (when holding flap in, a continuous red light verified it would work). closed freezer and shortly ice was being made. Simple process. (careful using Screwdriver to help take wire off of boards - a small clip holds wire clip on - you need to stick screwdriver into back of clip while unconnecting). Easy and my ice worked perfectly.

Looked on YouTube and found the PartSelect video. Viewed the video and replaced the part.

We had cleaned the electronic eyes off several times which yielded one or two days of ice production. Since we could tell the ice maker was receiving water and producing ice we went ahead and replaced the controller. Now the ice maker is working like a champ. The instructions were easy to follow and the part was delivered quickly. Unplugged the fridge. Three screws on opposite sides of the freezer, plug in the emitter and receiver boards and replace the screws. Plug the fridge back in and away it went.

When my thermostat was shipped the email contained a step by step video. I just watched the video and installed it.

un-plug the power cord. remove both control knobs. pry off the cover. remove 1 screw on the right and left with the nut driver. remove two screws in back with the nut driver. remove the screw holding thermostat in place, loosen screw holding the left side of the l plate. lift thermostat up and remove two nut driver screws. remove the temperature sensing line from holding device. Remove cover down the side of refrigerator and the cover over the sensor (in back corner) carefully remove the sensor line. Carefully bend the sensor tube into the shape of the removed part(do not kink)install the new part in the reverse order of removing.. Use flat blade screw driver to press sensor line into the snaps. This was one of the easiest repairs I have ever completed.

Simply done !

Replaced the water inlet valve. Note: although the web site shows the exact same water inlet valve, the replacement is somewhat different. You'll notice the electric prongs are facing in the opposite direction then the old one. It works like a charm need not worry as I did when I saw that. The old part is actually two parts in one. Use care when separating the front piece (it acts like a coupling where the water supply connects to and simply comes out the other side and into the refrig.) from the water inlet valve. It was a tight fit coupling that front piece to the new valve but it will fit. Make certain you purge 1-2 gallons of water before consuming any. Also dump a tray or two of ice cubes.

I removed ice maker from mounting rack but left wiring connected. Checked power between N & L: 120V (OK). Shorted T & H: no harvest cycle. Shorted L & V: no water came out to fill tray. Shorted H & N: heater did not turn on. Also noted that LED on right Electronic Control Board would flash 2X, then pause, then 2X, then pause, regardless of flapper position on left Control Board. Replaced Icemaker Control Assembly first (also purchased replacement Control Boards). Icemaker started working. Noticed that original Control Boards still worked the same way (LED flashing regardless of flapper position) BUT ONLY IN CERTAIN STAGE OF CONTROL BOARD CYCLE. At other times in cycle, LED would turn steady on when flapper closed, and right after tray fills with new water, LED does not light at all. Apparently this is NORMAL. I ended up not replacing old Electronic Control Boards. Icemaker took 3 days to totally refill ice bin - I presume this is also normal.

Exactly how the instructional video described it to be. No surprises what so ever. Ended up not being the culprit to my problem. Ordered and installed a bi-metal defrost timer. Also, extremely easy as the instructional video described it to be. Partselect is an awesome resource for knowledge and quality products with very reasonable prices.

I order the suspect part before pulling out the ice tray and whole ice maker for inspection. As it turns out my ice tray was peeling and all gunked up and I needed a new one. I suggest in the case of ice maker issues that you pull the entire ice maker before ordering what appears to be the troubled part. I had to replace the whole ice maker which was not really that much more money than just the part.