10651051990 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

remove the front cover. everything else is a quick disconnect type of connection. Nothing to it! I would remove the cover and check these connections anytime the dispenser does not work. Look for broken or disconnected switches. This reapir took me a couple of minutes whereas the repair guy wanted almost 200 bucks to do this job. Parts ran around 30 with shipping.

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.

The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.

Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.

Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Remove the unit cover by unsnapping from the bottom. Remove the face plate on the switches. The ice door simply snaps off the closing mechanism. The problem I have is that the original door included a heat trace element (keeps the back of the door warm to limit condensation). The new part was simply a new seal. I clipped the leads to the het trace (turn off the fridge before you do that) and put in the new door. When the heat ids on in the house there is no problem with condensation but on warmer days its pretty bad. I cannot find a replacement part with the heating element and have contacted Whirpool. THey haven't responded as of yet.

First I removed all contents from inside refrigerator door.Then I removed (1) 10mil screw,which holds cover for top hinge.Next I removed the (3) hinge screws,and lifted door off of bottom hinge.Pulled off plastic closure cam from bottom metal hinge post.I cleaned metal post ,applied a small amount of vaseline to post, slid on new plastic cam,installed door, replaced screws.Very easy,10 to 15 min tops.

I didn't have to buy a new Ice door kit. The part on the Refrig. door I needed I found out was unavailable. The door parts (Ice door parts and the asembly for the water unit) screws into that part. I found out that I would have to replace the whole refrig. door which was $900.00. I took every apart got me some pvc glue used it on the door and bought the original screw online with some other assorted parts,Door switch, etc. and was able to repair in about an hour. Some of the parts are very fraigle so you have to be very careful or you will be buying some new replacement parts.The new nickel and dime parts are expensive. My Icemaker was leaking where the Ice was clumping together in the bin, and when I checked the unit was $125.00. I found a new one and replaced it for about half that price. I am now very happy! (a least until the next project.)

worked great parts were perfect!

I wasn't sure the kit included the part I needed from the pictures, but it did. The part slipped over the flat plastic bracket attached to the right freezer wall and the shelf fit over it. No tools required.

hardest part was getting up the nerve to pull front cover because it is plastic afraid i would brake it pull from bottom and lift up one screw holds old door inplace uplug electric new door doesn't have electric that it.

Pry open the front dispenser outer cover. Remove a screw holding ice door dispenser unit, remove old door chute, remove and place coil kind of stuff (connecting to panel) old chute to new one and reinstall.

The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!