10650454901 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the cardboard back then using a nut driver removed the three mounting screws, removed the old fan/motor and installed the new one, installing the three screws and replacing the cardboard cover.

My big problem was getting the right parts. Don't ever order refrigerator parts using the refrigerator model number. I did and got the wrong part, sent it back and talked to the parts lady and ordered again describing the error, the needed parts shape etc and she sent me the exact part I had sent back. I sent it back and removed the fan motor to get the part number, called and ordered by number and got the right one. Hallelujah!

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Opened the box, removed the old shelf, attached the new one.
Is that easy or what?

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)

I got model number off my unit and order the part. That was after trying a lot of different filters first. I did a rush order so I got it in 2 days. Pulled the unit out to shut the water off. Then took the back off so I could take the 2 screws that hold the water value . That way I wouldn't have to go back and forth. Now I went to the front. I already had had the vent cover at the bottom of the unit off. I had a head lap on so to make it easier to see under the unit. Then I use the nut driver or you can use 1/4 inch drive ratchet with sockets. To take the 2 screws out that hold the filter housing. Then lift the spring wire that is on the left side of the release botton. Then push the wire up out of the way. Reach back and pull the water value forward so you have slack in the water lines. Now you can pull the fliter housing out to you. Now release the 2 water lines by pushing down on the rings around the water lines and hold while you pull the water lines out. Now the old water filter housing is free you can set it to the side. I inspected the new filter housing for any deformities and cracks before I started installing. Now I hooked the water lines up by pushing them into the right size spring ring hole. Once lines was all the way in I pulled back on the water lines to make sure they were locked in place. Then I put a new water filter in and turned the water on to make sure of no leaks. Then I put everything back together in the reverse order I took it apart. Then I check the spicket to make sure everything was working right. After that I was able to push the refrigerator back in and then wipe everything up and I was done.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

Took the broken cap off. Actually it practically fell off. Put the new cap in place, turned it to the right and Presto! it locked in and works fine. It took longer to get it out of the box than it did to install it :)

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

First removed the three screws at the top that holds the door at the top. Removed the worn out lower door cam after removing one screw. Did the same on the door closing cam (in fact this cam has worn and broken into two pieces). Replaced with the new ones, put the screws back, mounted the door and replaced the three screws on top. The door closed perfectly.
Since this did not help with keeping the refrigerator cold, a day later I had to vacuum the dust off the coils (on the underside of the refrigerator) and thaw the ice from the freezer compartment clearing the ducts to re-initiate the proper flow of air between the two compartments (I learnt on the internet that cold air from the freezer is drawn to maintain the temperature in the refrigerator compartment). The faulty refrigerator door ended up icing our frost free referigerator's freezer compartment and the air ducts in it. Therefore I had to simply turn off the refrigerator for 12 hours, thaw everything and restart! I know nothing about refrigerators. Just did it after visiting your site and a couple of other sites. Saved me about $300!!

Online parts detail made identifiying the correct part very easy. $10 fix instead of a $150 service call. Once the right part was identified, fixing it was very easy.

Removed screws, unplugged connectors to the two faulty circuit boards, reconnected both cables to new/replacement circuit boards, reinstalled screws. Extrremely simple! Worked perfectly! Saved about $150 in less than 30 minutes. Great, fast service by PartsSelect.

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

"Popped it in".