10650453900 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed refrig. door and replaced closing cam and tightened the bottom cam

I thought I would have to have a serviceman replace the unit. After watching your video, I thought I would try it. It was much easier than I had imagined. If it wasn't for your video, I probably wouldn't have tried it. Thanks for your help. I will definitely check with your company first, for the next repair odyssey.

with video's help installation was not real difficult.

Removed a total of 12 screws, unplugged the control boards, plugged-in the new control boards and replaced the 12 screws.The FAQs section of the PartSelect troubleshooting guide helped me correctly identify the control boards as the source of the problem. The LED sequence was the key to identifying the problem.

The plastic "wiper" attached to the bottom of the ice "auger" in the ice dispenser unit broke. (It was made from a plastic that was not up to the freezing temps and heavy ice loads it had to move.) The new unit seemed to be of a different type of nylon/plastic. Problem was that the small machine screw at the bottom of the auger assembly could not be removed because of corrosion. I had to drill it out. Choices then were to purchase a new auger for about 60 bucks or reassemble the unit with a new 6-32 machine screw. There will not be enough metal left to allow it to be tapped so simply clean it out well and glue in the new screw with JB Weld. Allow to cure over night and you're back in business. Ours works fine so far. Good luck!

First, removed the top hinge (3 screws), then lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Replaced the Cam on the bottom of the door and then the Cam on the bottom hinge (one screw for each). Placed the door back on the bottom hinge, reinsert the top hinge into the door and secure top hinge to the refrig with the 3 screws original removed. EASY!!

I did it a bit different from instructions mainly because I disassembled it to troubleshoot before going on line to find part and "easier" instructions.I had a 5" block of wood and cut a shim to use with that to hold the door up. I got on my hands and knees with a mirror and removed the lower hinge plate then the screws holding the upper and lower cams. These both were quite worn so I just took them to my shop and with a hand grinder I rounded off the sharpo corners of the cogs of both cams and then reassemble the hinge plate and cams. This eliminated the loud clicking and the door closed easily but I was afraid it woulod not "Auto Close" when needed so I went online to find this page with the parts needed along with wonderful instructions. I ordered both upper and lower cams which came 2 days later (THANKS). I installed them my way since I did not want to empty the door contents and remove the whole door. I used the block, mirror and nut driver to R&R the bottom hinge plate and both cams. Time was still less than 15 minutes, Easy Fix, Thanks guys! Cheers, Ben

There were excellent entries on the net of how to diagnose problem. Parts Select website had an excellent video on how to change part. Just followed instructions and changed parts in about 15 minutes. I am usually a klutz, but this was so easy

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

I removed the old icemaker and tore it apart as much as I could to see if I could see anything obvious. I also took a resistance reading on the heating coil in the bottom of the icemaker. It was good. I then hooked the old icemaker back up with the end cover off. The plastic wheel on the end of the ice maker did not move. I then ordered a new ice maker, installed it and it has worked perfectly ever since.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

Read the reviews on how to test if part was bad. It was! Ordered new infered sensors and watched your repair video! 2 hours later the ice maker was making ice:) Very easy! Thanks David

Removed icemaker and installed the new one. Went from six tiny ice cubes to four big ice cubes. Ice is of a higher quality, and the ice no longer falls out of the bin as the old ice maker's ice had once been prone to doing. A certified epic win on my part.

Install was done in reverse order of uninstall. The only thing that made this install a bit tricky is that the fill cup on the replacement icemaker was not the same part as on the original. I could have attempted to trim the replacement fill cup but didn't know how well that would work. I instead elected to install the original fill cup onto the new icemaker. This added a bit of time and complexity to the repair but I followed a repair video for when just the ice mold is being replaced. That video told me how to disassemble the ice mold and timer motor which had to be done to in order to replace the fill cup. It's been about 2 weeks since repair was made and the icemaker seems to be working properly.

Completely disconnected the power. Just shutting off the ice maker switch does not shut off the power to these boards. The emitter and Receiver boards are located in the side panels of the freezer-one on the right and the other on the left. Just remove the 3 screws in each cover and disconnect the wire connectors and install the new boards. It's very straight forward and easy to do.