10650452902 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced the Electronic control boards first, emitter and receiver, and that did not fix the problem. I then order the Control board/motor assembly in the ice maker, this did fix the problem and after a couple of hours I had ice. The repair was easy and the videos on the web site show you step by step.

Snapped new part in place.

Took the bolts at the bottom of the door off and removed the door. Pried out the old cam and put the new one in. Put the door back on and it works like it is brand new. The fridge is 13+ years old

Swapped out the emitter and receiver control boards. Super easy. Watched the video on how to do it on your website.

the tutorial is perfectwatch Steve. The boards were bad but coincidentaly so was the motor/control unit. I satrted with the boards, got my LED codes back to normal but still could not dispense. Installed the motor/control unit and had cubes dropping in 15 minutes. Great service, great tutorials.

Remove ice maker from refrigerator,remove damaged part,replace with new one.

The helpful Partselect video showed a slightly different model, as my icemaker uses optics instead of a bail for shutting off the icemaker. I ordered new optics based on a a customer description that, if the light on the right hand side of the freezer door jamb was blinking 2 flashes followed by a pause,it indicated that the optics were faulty, so I ordered and replaced them. This did not solve my problem. Then on-line I found further information that said I should close the flapper on the left side, and if the light was steady (which it was) the optics were OK. I then ordered the motor unit. I unscrewed the single screw under the right hand side of the track with a 1/4" nut driver, but found that sliding out the ice maker involved a little wiggling and prying, and, because it was awkward to disconnect the electrical connection, I found that it was not necessary to disconnect it. Then, after removing the end cap, it was a straight forward process to replace the motor, while adjusting the shaft to line up. Then,reverse all procedures and I now have ice. Success!

my 17 year old son actually repair it ...it took him all about 5 minutes to install the part and put that refrigerator cover back on ...very easy fix and save me a bundle of cash ...thank you very much and I will be doing more business with you

I was ready to spend the $$$ on a repair person when my wife (smart woman) suggested I go on line to see if we can fix it ourselves. I (luckly) found your company and your website made it easy to find the right part plus as an extra bonus you had a video that showed how to switch out both control boards. To top it off, the package came so fast ( the next day - even with standard shipping ) I did not think it was the parts. 10 or so minutes with a Phillips screwdriver and we were back in business. THANK YOU ! ! ! !

Unplug the Unit first! Unscrewed the sensor covers on both sides. Snap off the old, snap on the new. Replace the covers and screws.

Neither the OEM instructions nor any of the PartSelect videos explained BOTH ends of the tube for my particular appliance. All very thoroughly covered the obvious connection with the water valve from the wall. However, the push valve end for my KitchenAid is supposed to insert into the water filter chassis, which can barely be seen from the back of the appliance, much less reached with any tool. In order to make the repair, one must either remove the water filter chassis (which I attempted unsuccessfully), or put the appliance up on jacks in order to reach the push valve site.

Unplugged it for a day listened to the ice melting on the inside and plug it in again. Decreased the temperature settings and it now seems to work fine. I will save the part in case I ever need it in the future.

On the left side I unscrewed the screw and replace it with a new one . The right side in had to take s file and file of the rivet. You can use a rivet gun or a metal screw to replaced the clip. Once it is finish open the refrigerator door to see how to line the kick plate into the clip. A piece of cake.

I did not have voltmeter to test for problem. Internet sites suggested the most common problem is the circuit boards--a sender and a receiver which detect when the ice bucket is full. I could only buy as a pair (about $94). I removed two screws of cover of receiving unit, detached the coupler, replaced the circuit board. Icemaker now works. The sender was obviously still good.

Door cams were worn out. Removed food from door. Removed top hinge cover and hinge. Lifted door off lower hinge pin and placed door on a table. Removed old door cam and installed new one. Replaced closing cam on lower hinge. Set door back on lower hinge and closed door (magnetic strips hold the door in place). Reinstalled top hinge and replaced cover.