10650444901 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

This is for the refrigerator, not the freezer door which is more complicated. First empty the refrigerator door of food and removed the shelves. Remove the hinge cover on the top hinge by removing one bolt. Then, holding the door, remove the top hinge by removing the three bolts in the bracket (not the bolt in the recessed hole). Lift the door off the lower hinge and lay the door on its edge on the floor. Pry the old Door Cam out of the hole in the door with a knife (my Door Cam was ground completely flat). Insert the new Door Cam. Remove the old Lower Door Cam from the lower hinge and insert the new Lower Door Cam. Pick up the door and lower the door onto the lower hinge ensuring the lower hinge pin inserts into the hole in the Door Cam on the door. Reinstall the upper hinge and insert bolts without tightening. Align door and then tighten hinge bolts. Reattach top hinge cover and tighten the single bolt. Test the door to ensure it closes and stays closed. I had to remove the door a second time to rotate the Door Cam slightly to ensure cams were better engaged (tongue in groove style) when the door was closed. Reinstall the shelves and load the door with food.

Hi, this was an easy repair job. And, after I was done I felt like McGyver. It took me about 1 hour. The hardest part was getting ice maker's power source disconnected. That was tricky; you have to remove the housing that covers the power connector.

I rearranged the other bins on my refrigerator door. I checked the space between the bins, to make sure I could remove and insert items easily. I put my new bin in place, I made sure it was secure and I put taller items in the new bin.

After our four year old refrigerator door wouldn't stay closed as a do it yourself kinda gal I found this website that assisted me in an easy and inexpensive fix. The "plastic" yes, "plastic" piece on the bottom of the door was worn down to nothing. My only suggestion is to call in your order, the customer service folks will help you order the right cam for your model. The next thing is to change both cams if you have a side by side. We changed the fridge side which fixed the problem, then realized the cam on the freezer needed to be changed to make it level. Great customer service!

No prior experience in appliance repair. The majority of time was used in researching the problem and how to fix it. The Parts-Select website and the comments of prior customers made it easy to diagnose and repair. Unplugged the unit, popped of the ice maker cover to get it out of the way, unscrewed the plate covers for the emitter and receiver, changed them out, replaced the covers, replaced ice maker cover, plugged in. Moved on to the next problem.

watched video and did same thing,works great now,ordered parts friday morning arived saturday,very pleased!

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I would never attempt an appliance repair but after watching the video instructions for installing this part I decided to give it a try even though I'm dangerous with a screwdriver. After retrieving a nutdriver from my $39 handy dandy tool set, it was a piece of cake. Upper hinge cover, hinge, door removal, comes off in a matter of minutes. Only problem surfaced when I went to install my new cam in the lower hinge. It didn't fit. It was actually for the upper door hinge. I reinstalled the lower plastic piece (whatever it's called), tightened it down, put the door back on (you can do it yourself if it's the refrig. side) and popping sound was gone. I guess the bottom hinge plastic piece was probably loose but you can't tighten it unless you remove the door. I now have a upper door cam in my drawer ready when it fails and will replace it without hesitation.

unplug freg.took everything out.pulled out shelves and pulled out back panel.their was my part i had to replace.

Replaced the Electronic control boards first, emitter and receiver, and that did not fix the problem. I then order the Control board/motor assembly in the ice maker, this did fix the problem and after a couple of hours I had ice. The repair was easy and the videos on the web site show you step by step.

Took the bolts at the bottom of the door off and removed the door. Pried out the old cam and put the new one in. Put the door back on and it works like it is brand new. The fridge is 13+ years old

Swapped out the emitter and receiver control boards. Super easy. Watched the video on how to do it on your website.

the tutorial is perfectwatch Steve. The boards were bad but coincidentaly so was the motor/control unit. I satrted with the boards, got my LED codes back to normal but still could not dispense. Installed the motor/control unit and had cubes dropping in 15 minutes. Great service, great tutorials.

Remove ice maker from refrigerator,remove damaged part,replace with new one.

The helpful Partselect video showed a slightly different model, as my icemaker uses optics instead of a bail for shutting off the icemaker. I ordered new optics based on a a customer description that, if the light on the right hand side of the freezer door jamb was blinking 2 flashes followed by a pause,it indicated that the optics were faulty, so I ordered and replaced them. This did not solve my problem. Then on-line I found further information that said I should close the flapper on the left side, and if the light was steady (which it was) the optics were OK. I then ordered the motor unit. I unscrewed the single screw under the right hand side of the track with a 1/4" nut driver, but found that sliding out the ice maker involved a little wiggling and prying, and, because it was awkward to disconnect the electrical connection, I found that it was not necessary to disconnect it. Then, after removing the end cap, it was a straight forward process to replace the motor, while adjusting the shaft to line up. Then,reverse all procedures and I now have ice. Success!