Models > 10650022001 > Instructions

10650022001 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for 10650022001 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 10650022001
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No ice

  • Customer: Daniel from Suwanee GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 318 of 379 people found this instruction helpful
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.

front door ice wouldn't work and air going into freezer

  • Customer: BILL from BATESVILLE MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 234 of 282 people found this instruction helpful
THANKS TO THE PICTORIAL DIAGRAM, I WAS ABLE TO ORDER CORRECT PARTS. IT WAS JUST A MATTER OF REMOVAL OF BROKEN PARTS AND REPLACING THEM. ICE MAKER NOW WORKING AND AIR IS NO LONGER GETTING INTO FREEZER WHICH WAS FREEZING UP ICE MAKER. THANKS FOR TIMELY DELIVERY, NOW I AM ABLE TO USE ICE DISPENSER, WHICH I HAVEN'T USED FOR LONG TIME. THANKS

Ice Maker Fill Tube Freezes Up

  • Customer: Joseph from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 173 of 183 people found this instruction helpful
After a bit of troubleshooting it became obvious that the fill tube was freezing shut because the dispenser valve was not fully closing between fills. It was allowing small drops of water to creep into the fill tube where they would freeze as they entered the freezer compartment eventually plugging the tube shut. The fix was to replace the valve which was conveniently located on the back of the refrigerator in the lower right corner (where you attached the water inlet line from the house). After unplugging the refrigerator and shutting off the water outlet valve (in the wall), a small crescent wrench easily removed the inlet water line from the valve on the refrigerator. I then had to remove about five or six screws which held the black (cardboard like) flap which covered the valve. This cardboard is part of the overall cover that encompasses the entire back of the refrigerator. Two sheet metal screws (which held the valve to the refigerator frame) were then removed and the valve was easily pulled from the frame about three inches. At that point four electical (plug like) connections (they're grouped in twos) were easily pulled off, and the two water lines which feed the ice maker and the drinking water dispenser were easily removed using a pair of pliers (and fingers). To install the new unit, the aforementioned process was reversed and the unit has worked (and fixed the problem) perfectly! The only problem I encountered was that I had a small leak where you attach the water line from the wall to the new valve. This was fixed with some plumbers tape.

inconsistent compressor and condensor fan operation

  • Customer: Steve earney from Brooks GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 130 of 133 people found this instruction helpful
Compressor start relay would cycle several times before compressor would come on. Replaced start relay and defrost timer assy. Operated more consistently however not completely reliable. Ice would begin to melt. Noticed that if you would cycle the temperature control the compressor would start again and operate for several hours then not cycle again. Jumpered temp control and operation was continuous and reliable. Replaced cold control thermostat. Operation now normal. Suspect high resistance in switch caused start relay and timer contacts to arc. Small amount of carbon noticed under temp control...

Refigerator door was not closing all the way if not pushed shut.

  • Customer: Norbert from Sugar Land TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 122 of 125 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is closing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.

Ice Maker stopped working

  • Customer: Robert from Port Washington NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 82 of 94 people found this instruction helpful
With socket wrench un-screwed the 3 screws and pulled out the ice maker assembly.

Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)

However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.

Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.

Screwed in the new unit.

Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.

1 hour later ice was falling!

Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.

  • Customer: Cathy from Winter Park FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 79 of 87 people found this instruction helpful
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.

Warm Air Getting Into Freezer

  • Customer: David from Chesterfield MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 76 of 94 people found this instruction helpful
Patience is a virtue. The kit really works. 1st, lift the front plate of the ice dispencer by placing a flat head screw driver into the two slots at the bottom of the panel. When the panel is lifted up slightly at the bottom, push up on the panel to remove it. Careful not to break panel and the wires attached. Next, remove the wiring panel by removing the two screws on left and right sides. Then, unplug the old black ice cover from the wiring panel (this is the heating plug that you will nolonger need). Next, remove the parts and replace them with the parts in the kit, noting where each part comes from, etc. All parts in the kit are necessary and should be used. Some of the replacements need trial and error. Patience will be important. Also needed is a person that loves to solve problems, especially because the kit does not come with instructions. But the kit definitely works!

Broken elbow on icemaker water fill tube.

  • Customer: Charles from Orland Hills IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 69 of 76 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 2 screws holding water fill tube to rear of refrigerator and pulled out, matched old part with new to make sure of proper match. Guide new fill tube thru hole, making sure it is aligned with slot in ice cube tray on inside of freezer. Install new plastic line from water pump outlet to water fill tube, check for leaks, job done.

where ic e dispencer spring is held to door broke at mold

  • Customer: helen j from murrells inlet SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 68 of 80 people found this instruction helpful
after ordering ice dispencer repair kit, and removing the outer parts found out that the problem was the ice dispencer door shell . this part is no longer available.It seems to me that if whirlpool wants to have return customers they have to stand behind the product. Well I made a L bracket and drilled a hole to to recieve the spring keeper and glued this to the housing and used a 3 1/12"finishing nail as the pin all works fine

The compressor would shut down and not restart unless you tapped the temperature knob which i did for about 3 weeks before ordering this part

  • Customer: michael from clarksville TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 60 of 64 people found this instruction helpful
Was pretty simple just take the knobs off pull off the face plate remove a few screws and drop the whole shelf down. then a few more screws down the side to the back of the fridge. Pull the sensor wire out of some styrofoam and pull off the plastic coating and slide it over the new one and install it in reverse order from taking it out. Works great now and i have ice everyday :)

The Bearing Cup Assembly was broken and ice would jamb against it during the ice making cycle.

  • Customer: David from Chester CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 62 of 75 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

No water from dispenser but was getting water to ice maker

  • Customer: vince from antioch CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 55 of 68 people found this instruction helpful
I unpluged the refigerator and turned off the water supply valve to the refigerator. I then disconnected the main water line to the refigerator and the 2 lines underneath the unit. I then unscrewed (2 screws) the unit from the refigerator. Then disconnected the 2 small plugs to the unit (sylonoid valves). I reinstalled the new unit in reverse. Turned the water back on checking for leaks then plugged the refigerator back in and tested the water despensor.

It was that easy.

Icemaker made a clicking noise then quit making ice

  • Customer: Ryan from Layton UT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 51 of 65 people found this instruction helpful
Motor from Part Select was 185W instead of 260W that came out of unit. After a bit of searching online, I found out the 260W had been obsoleted for lack of torque when harvesting ice.

Removal instructions: Unplugged fridge. Then I removed the screw on the bottom right rear of the unit. Then removed the plastic cover that covered the power connector. Pulled out the icemaker by pushing in the tab on the bottom left middle of the icemaker unit and pulling unit toward me. Unplugged the connector on the back right hand side. Removed the cover on the left side covering motor. Took out 3 philips screws and removed old motor with broken axle that spun freely (the source of the clicking noise). Put new motor in aligning harvest arm (the thing with the fingers) and did reverse of removal. Then plugged fridge back in and it started a harvest and the next morning I had a half tub of ice.

Ice maker over flowing in freezer

  • Customer: Dean from Sheboygan WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 44 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
After finding my ice maker and ice bin over flowing with frozen water. I unthawed my freezer wiped it down and started over again, only to find the water flowing into the ice maker didn't stop flowing. I determined the problem to be with the DIspenser valve. To replace this vave was a 15 min. job. Shut off the water to the refrigerator. Unplug the refrigerator. Remover the cardboard cover on the back of the frig. In the lower right hand corner of the frig is the dispenser valve. Remover the 2 screws holding it to the frig frame. Then it is just a matter of unplugging the 2 wires and unscrewing the 3 water lines from the old valve and placeing them in the same places in the new valve. Replace the cardboard,plug in the frig and turn the water back on. It did take a few ice making cycles for the ice maker arm to stop sticking in the up position. Very easy job!
All Instructions for the 10650022001
1-15 of 998