10648064895 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The glass cover came on time and in good packaging. I removed it from the packaging and slipped in to the shelf. It fit perfectly and was extremely easy to do. We are very pleased with the entire process. Thanks

Fan was barely rotating. So unplugged, removed back cover, removed fan and motor from frame work. Removed fan blade from motor shaft. Spun motor shaft which seemed fine. Pryed off back cover of motor to find a large but dry felt washer and a helical capillery slot formed into the motor shaft for carring oil from felt washer to the bearings. Added 30 wt motor oil and some 3in1 oil to felt and reassembled motor, fan and frame work. Plugged in power chord after getting rid of dust and dog hear on coils and is working like new.

Removed refrig. door and replaced closing cam and tightened the bottom cam

The extra shelf for my refrigerator door was just right. It immediately allowed me to rearrange my refrigerated items to make much more room. Thank you.

Fridge would stop cooling, get way over temperature. I noticed it would start up again if I tapped near the thermostat. It would run for a while then stop again. Replaced the thermostat exactly as shown in video. Fridge works fine now.

all is fine now. thanks andy

watched the video followed the instructions and the repair took less than 30 mins. thank you parts plus for the video ref now workes properly and saved me a bundle of money

Installation went smooth - only three hex-head screws (one below unit and two above. After removing 3 screws, unit comes loose in your hand but is still connected by a plug leading 4 wires to a connector visible through a slot in back panel of freezer compartment. New unit goes in easily (making sure spout from pump that protrudes from back wall fits through opening on icemaker) but there's not a generous amout of wiring harness and the 'female' of the electrical connection is recessed and loose inside a cutout in the rear panel so you can't get a good grip on it nor can you feel if it plugs securely. I plugged new unit into connector and then secured it with the 3 screws, waited the 12 hours per instructions, but no ice. Removed unit and guessed that the plug had not seated fully (not plugged in.) I took a short piece of a wooden paint stirrer and put it on back edge of plug and tapped it into place so it seated fully. Immediately, the pump cycled and water came from the filler spout, so I surmised that it was now properly plugged in - it began making ice in a couple of hours and has operated perfectly ever since. Lesson learned is to make sure you get the electrical connector fully in place - mine did not 'snap' or 'click' into place and I wrongly assumed it was plugged in correctly.

First, removed the top hinge (3 screws), then lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Replaced the Cam on the bottom of the door and then the Cam on the bottom hinge (one screw for each). Placed the door back on the bottom hinge, reinsert the top hinge into the door and secure top hinge to the refrig with the 3 screws original removed. EASY!!

After ordering the ice-maker, but before it had arrived, I installed a valve in the pex water line in the room right below the fridge. I had to rent a pex clamp kit from Home Depot. It cost $8 for 4 hours and came with the crimpers and band cutters. I then ran a poly line to an in-line filter which I mounted to an exposed stud and fished the line up the wall and out a small hole I drilled behind the fridge. When the ice-maker came, it took less than 30 minutes to install and start my first batch of ice. With the in-line filter, the ice forms with practically no sediment flakes. Part Select was the only place I could find a replacement ice-maker. In addition to the parts in the ice-maker kit, I had to buy 12 feet of poly water line, a ball-valve, the in-line filter and a compression fitting. A total of $20 at my plumbing contractor store.

I just simply eliminated the ice buildup with hot water and a knife. But I still have the Defrost Timer Kit for future use.

I did it a bit different from instructions mainly because I disassembled it to troubleshoot before going on line to find part and "easier" instructions.I had a 5" block of wood and cut a shim to use with that to hold the door up. I got on my hands and knees with a mirror and removed the lower hinge plate then the screws holding the upper and lower cams. These both were quite worn so I just took them to my shop and with a hand grinder I rounded off the sharpo corners of the cogs of both cams and then reassemble the hinge plate and cams. This eliminated the loud clicking and the door closed easily but I was afraid it woulod not "Auto Close" when needed so I went online to find this page with the parts needed along with wonderful instructions. I ordered both upper and lower cams which came 2 days later (THANKS). I installed them my way since I did not want to empty the door contents and remove the whole door. I used the block, mirror and nut driver to R&R the bottom hinge plate and both cams. Time was still less than 15 minutes, Easy Fix, Thanks guys! Cheers, Ben

Watched your installation how to video. Applied same procedure. Went smoothly.

Simply removed the old icemaker and replaced it with the new one. Reqires removing 3 hex head screws and wiring harness, then reconnecting the new unit.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.