10644102300 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

I removed the two screws holding the cover door, then the three on the uder side of the icemaker assembly. I carefully worked the old unit out; it was a tight fit. The most difficult step involved disconnecting the power assembly. Due to the space, it was hard to get hold of each side of the clip to pull it out. After the old unit was out, just reversed the steps and had the first batch of ice in less than an hour. (I washed the new unit with warm water and soup as it had grease/lubricant on it when taken out of the package).

Started the replacement of the existing dual outlet valve by removing cardboard covering the lower back of the refrigerator exposing the outlet valve. Closed the water supply valve at the wall. Removed the hose bibb water supply connection on the outlet valve by hand as it is only hand-tight. I used a small plastic container to catch the minimal amount of water left in the copper line. I removed the electrical connection on each solenoid valve (one for the in-door water supply and one for the icemaker supply). I removed the plastic supply lines from the outlet valve. I removed the screws on the bracket attaching the dual outlet valve to the refrigerator vertical rail. I reconnected the electrical connectors to the valve. I reattached the plastic supply lines to the valve, but did not tighten them fully at this point. I secured the bracket on the new valve to the existing screwholes on the refrigerator rail. The new outlet valve does not have a hose bibb connector, it has a compression fitting for the supply. I reused the existing copper supply line from the wall angle-stop valve to reconnect to the new outlet valve. (It would have been best to have cut the copper line and used a new furrel on the copper line). Note that the supply line now comes into the outlet valve from the top, not the rear as on the old valve, so now the dual outlet valve sticks out beyond the frame of the refrigerator. I tightened the nuts on the plastic supply lines on the valve. I had to cut the cardboard cover around the new outlet valve. Resecured the cardboard cover to the back of the frig. Checked for leaks, turned the icemaker on by lowering the shutoff arm, and after a few moments, the outlet valve opened, water flowed into the icemaker, and all is well.

Have not installed yet as I'm on a quick TX-FL-TX turnaround. Bought and received the part in 24 hours...great. Order contained no instructions. I could probably figure it out myself just have not attempted yet.

Part would not fit straight in. Used universal joint on end of extension to reach screw rather that disassemble front. Managed to slip the paddel just far enough to one side and angled to snap ice guid on and then slipped paddel back into place. Used a dab of candle stickum on the screw head to heep it in the socket and then inserted in door. $7 part, 15min and saved $$$$$$ over a service call;)

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

I replaced the dual outlet valve and deiced the filler tube going to the ice maker. I removed the filler tube and ran hot water on it. I believe the old filler valve was leaking letting water slowly into the filler tube where it eventually froze solid.

Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.

Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch.
For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug.
The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly.
Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit.
Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.

Googled with question about how to get to the repair as there were no screws on the faceplate. Found I had to lift the faceplate at the bottom and pry out. Was kind of hard to get the long spindle back through the ears of the bracket holder along with getting the spring of the door lined up for the spindle to pass through to the other side. Finally got it right and then just put it all back together. Frustrating at first but I had to get it done as my wife was tired of having to take large clumps of ice out of the ice tray..three years wait for the repair. That door being open let warm air in and let the ice melt just enough to stick together in a clump. All is well now. Longer you wait the more appreciative she is however. ha

We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected.
Saved a lot!

where the wires crossed at the start relay, 20 years of vibration allowed them to short out and burn out the start relay ..since i have 2 identical fridges i switched the run capacitor to determine it was'nt bad too...ordered a start relay wednesday nite and got it friday morning...cold fridge by noon...good service and the part was exactly the same as the original....

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

Old part would not stay in place (broken). Recieved new part and snapped it in to place . No tools needed.

Online parts detail made identifiying the correct part very easy. $10 fix instead of a $150 service call. Once the right part was identified, fixing it was very easy.