10641263800 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

First, I took out the broken unit,yhen I put in the new one..

This was a very easy repair and only took about 20 minutes. Unfortunately, after reordering, and installing the second motor, the intermittent noise is still there. Other than the occasional buzzing noise, that sounds like it is coming from the evaporator fan area, the refrigerator runs fine.

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

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Removed the door (3 bolts on top). Removed the old plastic door closing cam on the bottom. Installed the new one. It was too tall (probably my fault), so I trimmed it with garden shears (it was a tubular piece of plastic). If you do this, be very careful, as the shears cut through the plastic MUCH easier than I thought. Popped the new one on, re-secured the door, and it works great now. Thank you partselect!

I looked at the parts diagram from partsselect.com and watched the short video. This was a huge help and made the installation of the new part actually easy. I removed the thermostat control panel from the top portion of the refrigerator side with a 1/4" nut driver and then removed the defrost control board with a philips head screwdriver. I then replaced the part and put everything back in place. The only problem I had was trying to get the thermostat control panel back onto the front clips.I would recommend partsselect.com to anyone. The refrigerator/freezer works great now. Thanks again. Chris

I did a Google Search for a 1998 Whirlpool ED22RF, looked for trouble Isolation procedures. Don't remember the web sites but two parts were mentioned namely the timer and the thermal relay. After making sure it was unplugged I removed the back lower insulation panel, removed the red wire from the relay located on the left side of the condenser and unplugged the relay. I examined it for physical damage before checking with an ohmmeter and found the thermal relay sounded like it was full of sand when I shook it. So we found PartSelect and searched for the thermal relay and found an exact picture with the part number and ordered the part. We received the $30 part 5 days later. Only took 15 minutes and two tools to install. Thank you for saving us a few hundred dollars.

Went to the site to determine the problem and ordered the three most probable causes to my situation. replaced two of the items and had to send one part back because it didn't exist on my Model. Still did not run. Went back to the site and ordered the thermostat and the problem is resolved.

Took it out and slipped the new one in.

just remove the damaged one and replace with the new one---easy- breezy

Great video on-line - remove door by unscrewing bracket (3 screws) at top of door; the door magnet will hold it to the face of the frig until you are ready to lift it off... Lift door off and position horizontally across a padded table or sawhorses. The door is actually very light in weight. The cams at the bottom were easy to put on - use care not to overtighten the retaining screw. The top thimble takes a lot of time to "dig out" of the top of the door - hard not to mar and bend the door in this area. This took almost one-half hour to get it out!! Putting in the new one, use care to not cave in the door corner, not a lot of structural strength in the area. Once all the door items are in place, put the door back in place on the frig and replace the top bracket to hold it in place; watch to line up the gap between the frig and freezer door so it hangs straight. Check the two cams at the door bottom - they won't fit perfectly when the door is in the closed position and that is OK... IMPORTANT - the door should now close, but it won't automatically shut on its own until you load the door back up with your food items. Once the items are in place on the door you will see that it now closes completely with very little to no effort... just like it should. Hope this is helpful!!!

I Checked thermostat in freezer compartment for continuity I next checked defrost heater for proper ohms. both were ok. I assumed defrost control board could be only problem. changing control board located in upper right was simple ,pop off cover plate with small screwdriver remover four screws plug in new control board.

Just re-intall the new drawer. That's it. Thank you !!

Followed recommendations from others but went with most likely by percentage = defrost timer kit. Did not solve issue. Then went with bi-metal thermostat and that did not fix the problem. Tested the thermostat as recommended on line and old part was bad, new part ok. Then I saw on line that I should have listened for fan operation. I checked and found the fan motor to be defective. Replaced the motor and refrigerator worked fine. Both the motor and bi-metal thermostat were required. Should have checked fan operation first.