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10632853011
10632853011 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the 10632853011
[Viewing 6 of 6]
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Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$38.48
In Stock
Capacitor
PartSelect #: PS11757023
Manufacturer #: WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor ...
$79.16
In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$46.59
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap
PartSelect #: PS11738927
Manufacturer #: WP2156003
The door shelf retainer bar end cap connects to the retainer bar on your refrigerator’s door shelf, and attaches it to the refrigerator door. If your shelf retainer bar has become disconnected, a dama...
$13.17
In Stock
ICEMAKER
PartSelect #: PS16660327
Manufacturer #: W11510803
This genuine OEM ice maker kit is designed to fit refrigerators that did not originally come with an ice maker. This kit contains everything needed to install the new ice maker on your refrigerator in...
$127.17
In Stock
Crisper Pan
PartSelect #: PS11739936
Manufacturer #: WP2256704
This crisper pan, or drawer, is made for your refrigerator. The drawer has a controlled environment to ensure a proper humidity level to keep your produce fresh for longer. It is clear in color and ma...
$101.73
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.00
In Stock
Hinge Bracket
PartSelect #: PS11739061
Manufacturer #: WP2183805
This hinge bracket, also known as a door stop, is attached to the bottom of the door and is used to limit how far the door swings out to protect the refrigerator itself, and any surrounding cabinets f...
$10.73
In Stock
Light Socket Kit
PartSelect #: PS371236
Manufacturer #: 4387478
The light socket in your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If your refrigerator light is not coming on when you open the door, you may need to replace the light s...
$70.72
In Stock
Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay
PartSelect #: PS11750123
Manufacturer #: WPW10197428
This compressor start relay is for refrigerators. The compressor start relay attaches to the compressor and helps start the compressor motor. Safely store any food that could deteriorate while the pow...
$76.35
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 10632853011
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Common Symptoms of the 10632853011
[Viewing 19 of 19]Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door won’t open or close
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Clicking sound
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Too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Noisy
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Leaking
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Door Sweating
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le
... Read more
t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Parts Used:
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garth from forest lake, MN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
394 of 474 people
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Parts Used:
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Cathy from Winter Park, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
154 of 178 people
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Parts Used:
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Clint from Rayville, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
118 of 192 people
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