1022 - Instructions

First I removed upper front grill by removing two Philips head screws on top and pulling off. This exposed the Philips head screw which holds control panel in place. After removing screw I pushed up on panel and it came off to expose fuse. With needle nose pliers I removed old fuse and again with pliers held new fuse in position. With the help of a bladed screwdriver, I pushed new fuse into holder, then replaced panel, screw and grill. This took less than 15 minutes even as one of the wires on control panel pulled out of connection and took some time to locate where to reconnect, otherwise was an easy fix
.

Jenn-Air Microwave would not turn on. Clock worked , light worked, timer worked and would count down .I changed' Part #0813140 Switch, Micr} cost $8.99 plus shippingNow it works Thank You for good advise

Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.

I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.

Removed scraper bar and support. Removed flight paddles. Several retaining screws were seized requiring WD-40 and vice grips for removal. Torx sockets stripped out due to threads being seized. Hex head cap screws would be better for both scraper bar and flight papples.once the screws were removed I used a tap to clean the threads and applied lubricant to minimize future corrosion. Three of the four lock nuts for the scraper bar were either not included or lost in shipping due to poor packing requiring me to purchase replacements.
Overall, the job took longer than it should have due to the additional time required to remove seized screws and acquire replacement lock nuts.

Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

NOTES: 1) This is not a new model, but a rebranded version - previously under Murray, Simpliticy, Snapper, etc., so parts are available, but not readily identified yet.
2) This repair may be quite simple or it may be a huge problem, depending on whether the manufacturing problem described below is present.
3) The space between the housing and aluminum pulley is so tight that a belt CANNOT be fit through it!
Therefore, the only way to replace the belt is to remove the pulley.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Step 1. As with every other single stage snow blower, remove the belt cover held by six 10 mm bolts. This may require a metric nutdriver or a deep socket for a couple of bolts.
Step 2. Use a 17 mm wrench to remove the large nut holding the aluminum impeller pulley, along with the flat and split lock washers. Also remove the part that locks the pulley onto the shaft.
Step 3a. If there is not a manufacturing issue, the pulley will come off easily and you may proceed to thread the new belt around the power and idler pulleys.
Step 3b. IF THE PULLEY DOES NOT COME OFF, you may need to get a wheeler puller tool to get it loose and off the shaft. Once the overly tight pulley is off, you may wish to file down the shaft near the end until the pulley slides on and off without much effort. (You may also wish to apply a dry silicone lubricant to the shaft to make the job easier next time.)
Step 4. In order the install the new belt, feed it around the power pulley and the idler pulley controlled by the "engage" handle. With the impeller pulley still off its shaft, feed the belt around it, fitting the belt grooves into the pulley grooves.
Step 5. The large aluminum can be replaced on its shaft, followed by the pulley lock, flat washer and split ring washer. Tighten the pulley lock nut, holding the impeller blades to keep the shaft from turning.
Step 6. Replace the belt cover and the six bolts holding it in place.