ApplianceMagic Chef Microwave
Level of DifficultyEasy
Time to do repair1- 2 hours
Age of ApplianceMore than 10 years
I'd be glad to share this repair story - it wasn't too difficult, and it saved a lot of time and money! I'm including model numbers so that anyone who googles these combinations will have all the info they need to get their Magic Chef oven looking like new and working.
I have a 1995 25' Winnebago Warrior RV (Model WCD25RU), and the original built-in Magic Chef 700 watt microwave (no turntable) (Winnebago part 115303-01-000, Magic Chef Model number DM15K-7BS-N) stopped working.
I've tried finding a replacement built-in oven, but there are none out there that fit very well - you'd have to make some modifications to the cabinet opening to accomodate any replacement oven (either make the opening smaller to accomodate a smaller replacement, or make the opening bigger and beef up the support structure to accomodate a bigger, heavier replacement that is rated at a higher wattage, which may or may not be suitable for the existing electrical system and generator).
In any event, buying the replacement parts cost me $135.00. Buying a replacement oven and built-in vents/ducts/brackets would have cost me about $350-$400.00, and would have taken a lot longer, and might have looked ugly in the end.
The light would work when opening the door, but nothing else worked - no clock, fan, nothing else. It turns out that the control board's one-shot thermostatic switch burned out from an over-voltage (surge from the badly running generator, or from a bad RV park connection can't tell which caused it). The moral of that story is that you should get a quality 30amp surge-suppressor and plug it into the outlet inside the electrical cord storage box so it will provide protection against either the generator or an external power source.
I found the replacement board (your part number PS94415, Magic Chef # 51001053R), plus a new bottom tray (plastic white tray your part number PS94528, Magic Chef # 51001213). I took out the old control board, installed the replacement (51001053R), and then took out the old burned plastic tray (the plastic can burn if you place anything not microwave-proof directly on the plastic tray - i.e. a popcorn bag) and replaced it with your tray. Here's how I did the repairs:
1) removed built-in microwave by unscrewing the two phillips screws holding the top-mounted black leuvered plastic vent in place, then unscrewed the remaining 4 phillips screws behind this vent, which hold the top of the microwave/casing/vents in place. Removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom front of the microwave, which holds the bottom bracket of the microwave in place. Note: All 8 phillips mounting screws are the same size - no need to keep track of where each screw came from.
2) opened cabinet to the left of the microwave and unplugged the microwave cord and shoved the cord and plug-end back through the access hole it came out of.
3) Slid the microwave out of the cabinet opening and onto the dinette table, tilted it onto it's back, then removed the three phillips screws holding the bottom bracket to the microwave, and removed the bracket.
4) Removed the 3 phillips screws in the back of the oven holding the casing in place (one at the top-middle and one on at each mid-side) and pulled the "built-in" casing backwards away from the front of the microwave until it came completely away from the oven, then set it aside. (There are two continous metal clips running top-to-bottom, wich are spot-welded to the inside of each side of the casing even with the front-edges of the casing - these clips secure the front edges of the casing against the sides of the microwave frame).
5) Removed the one sheet-metal screw holding the touch-panel/control board assembly in place against the microwave frame (located at the top of the frame, above and behind the back of the control-board ). Opened the microwave door then grasped both sides of the touch-panel assembly and pulled straight up to disengage the two plastic touch-panel hooks from the sl