Level of DifficultyEasy
Time to do repair15 - 30 mins
Age of Appliance5 - 10 years
Vincent From Jacksonville, NC
Apr 16, 2008
2 out of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First, thanks to James from Livermore, CA whose 10/31/07 posting made my job easier. Some parts of my write-up resembles his. I must give him credit for that.
1. Remove the white plastic cover. This was the hardest part. Push up on the two tabs, one each side in the extreme back on the bottom of the cover. Spray silicon spray or WD-40 to the tabs facilitated it. Pull the cover while releasing the tab (locks) by pushing UP. The right side was easier. But the left side took some pressure on the tab with a flat screwdriver and I broke it. Tilt the right side of the cover up for moving it out.
2. Remove the hex head screw at the middle back of the Back wall above the top shelf.
3. Remove the 2 small hex head screws that screw the temperature control strip to the top roof of the fridge.
4. Unscrew the two light bulbs for easier access to the screws behind them..
5. Take out the 2 Phillips screws behind the light sockets. The left one needs a long skinny driver.
6. On the far back right is the ADP board sitting in a well. It took some effort to get the board out. It is shaped identical to the replacement one.
7. Carefully and with some effort, pry the connector off of the board. Re-plug the connector to the new one. (Re-plugging was easier by taking the board out of the casing. Press on the middle tab and pull casing cover apart. Do this on a table so the board won’t fall and risk damage.)
8. Replace everything back. Plug in the refrigerator. Nothing happened. Did not feel cold air coming out of the vent on the back of my palm.
9. Left it plugged for about an hour. It started running. It got frosted up again.
10. Unplug to defrost. Now I thought I replaced the wrong part. After defrosting, I plugged it again. Now the refrigerator is running as usual. It’s been 10 days. Both freezer and refrigerator are maintaining the desired temperatures.