Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult
Time to do repair1- 2 hours
Age of ApplianceMore than 10 years
First, I removed the foot plate(s) at the bottom of the Dishwasher. (2 screws each side)
Then I removed the two top screws at the front of the dish-washer. The screws were mounted into a board under the counter that had broken loose. (A minor secondary issue specific to my situation.)
I gently inched the dishwasher out from under the cabinets.
SLOWLY, I tipped the dishwasher over on its side, allowing the water still inside to drain into a pan. Minor cleanup required for the cup or two that missed.
I then had access to the part. I disconnected the power from the wall socket, and I closed the valve for the inlet water from under the sink.
I removed the screws holding the Water Valve to the DishWasher case. Then I took a sharpie and marked one side of one of the two power connectors, black-mark to black-mark.
When I went to disconnect the inlet pipe, there was more dripping than I expected, so the valve under the sink was not closing completely. I needed to shut off the water supply to the house for the next stage.
I disconnected the inlet water supply, which continued to drip slightly into a bucket. I then removed the coupler from the old water valve. It was badly clogged and corroded, so I went to a local HW store and found an exact match 3/8" to 3/8" right angle coupler with compression fitting on one end.
BIG TRICK, before installing the new coupler, WRAP the compression fitting threads with teflon tape. You will not be able to wrap it once it is installed. In fact, I needed to uninstall the part once after I discovered this, to wrap the threads smoothly.
Once pre-wrapped, wrap the other threads that screw into the water valve. Tighten until secure, AND aligned with the direction of the flow tubes of the original.
Match the electrical connectors, black-mark to the same position as before. (The new water valve will NOT have the black-mark on it, unless you transfer one!)
Connect the Water valve back to the Dish Washer chassis with the two screws previously removed.
Connect the inlet water back to the compression fitting with the pre-wrapped threads.
Gently return the dishwasher to upright, and then plug it in.
Open the valve under the sink slowly and watch for drips or leaks.
Run the dishwasher at the start of a cycle, long enough to determine that the valve activates, and allows water to flow. Then stop the cycle.
Gently walk the dishwasher back under the counter, observing that you do not kink the copper water inlet pipe, or the drain pipe.
Adjust the feet, if necessary, back to fully support and level the dishwasher.
Install the two screws holding the dishwasher to the cabinet front. Then install the kick plates and tighten those 4 screws.
Clean up any residual water from the process.