Level of DifficultyEasy
Time to do repairMore than 2 hours
Age of ApplianceMore than 10 years
Remove freezer door: two pan head machine screws on sides of track, lift and pull. Remove icemaker: electrical connector with latches, three sheet metal screws with 5/16 hex heads, easiest to get top two first. Remove bezel vent from back panel: 3 latches, one lower center other two upper sides. These release with a 3/16 screwdriver. Start with the center one. Remove back panel: 4 sheet metal screws in corners, bow outward to clear retainer and pull out. May have to defrost coil and fins: remove any loose frost gently with plastic scraper, warm with hot air gun on low setting, keeping it moving and a foot or so away from refrigerator parts. Mop up water. Diagnosis: set multimeter to read resistance. Unplug orange wire connected to thermostat. One probe on orange wire, one probe on brown wire, where it enters the multi-connector. Unclip thermostat and warm in your hand. Should be open circuit. Bury thermostat in a handful of frost to cool down. Should be closed circuit. I had about 6 M Ohms, so decided problem was probably thermostat. Also checked heater, which had 30 Ohm resistance, which is correct. Reassembled, ordered part. Disassembled. Unclipped old thermostat and cut off wires. Kit comes with end cap electrical crimps. I used butt splice crimps instead, with a bit of heat shrink tubing over the ends to keep water out. Unplugging orange wire made this a bit easier. Clipped thermostat back onto coil. Reassembly: snap in back panel, re-attach screws. Make sure icemaker hose and connector pass through respective holes, and connector is latched in place. Watch out for sharp edges. Re-install bezel grille; alignment is a bit finicky. Re-install icemaker. Re-install door and baskets. Store food. Done.