The factory "single" defrost element was burned out.

ApplianceGeneral Electric Refrigerator


Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair30 - 60 mins

Age of Appliance5 - 10 years

Tools Nutdriver
Screw drivers

William From Cape Canaveral, FL

Jan 14, 2011

7 out of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Unplugged Frig. Emptied freezer shelves of food, removed ice container, removed all shelves, removed light bulb cover and light bulb, removed rear panel over coils (2 phillips on bottom and 2 1/4" hex on top/staggered. Used HAIR DRYER hung on a wire to defrost the "ICE BLOCK" over the coils. Used heavy towels to catch the water in the bottom so the condensate drain didn't just overflow. Removed the 2 screws holding the old element. Unplugged the quick disconnects. The new 2 element heater purchased at PartSelect is not "encapsulated" like a florescent tube as was the original. Much greater efficiency with exposed element coils. RE-routed blue wire on left of coil bank to the right-used the same split insulator that pink wire is in to keep it safe, did not need to use the jumper extention that comes with the kit. Plugged in both the blue and pink wire quick disconnects, installed the new defrost element with the 2 screws. Cut the old thermostat right up against it's sensor pot. Stripped existing wires, used my own wire nuts to mate the new thermostat, wrapped tight with electrical tape, then tucked them up underneath. Snapped the new sensor on the evaporator line at original location. Replaced panel, plugged frig back in, turned control in Frig side to 1, and it works like new now. No more freezer burn. Ice cubes better. Still, this design is poor and no more GE major appliances for me.

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Diagrams and Parts List for this repair

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

Defrost Thermostat

Part Number: PS1017716

In Stock

Defrost Heater Harness Kit

Part Number: PS1993872

In Stock