Maytag Washer Leaks, Noisy

ApplianceMaytag Washer

ModelSAV4655EWW

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair1- 2 hours

Age of Appliance5 - 10 years

Tools Pliers
Screw drivers
Socket set
Wrench(Adjustable)

RAYMUND From WEST COVINA, CA

Sep 22, 2010

29 out of 34 people found this instruction helpful

1. I unplugged the machine. Using a socket wrench set, I removed the washer housing (bottom, front and sides) and flipped over the top to its service position. This exposes all the inner parts of the washer.
2. I pulled out the softener cup, unbolted the auger using a socket wrench with a long adaptor. I then pulled out the auger, exposing the "Seal Nut" and bottom of the inner basket (metal)where the transmission arm rises through.
3. I removed the seal nut using the hub (or spanner) wrench, which I had purchased from the Home Depot for $9.00;
and removed the bolts of the inner basket using a socket wrench. I unclipped the large plastic ring which holds together the inner metal basket and the outer plastic tub. This ring sits on top of both. I then removed all the counter-balance springs attached around the tub assembly.
4. I pulled out the inner basket exposing a metal disc called the "hub", which holds the inner tub in place.
5. Using a large flat screwdriver and a hammer, I tapped on the "T" shaped protrusions around the hub to loosen the hub, as it is tightly screwed onto the tub. Remember that the hub is "uncrewed" counter-clockwise. I didn't take much care in tapping the hub because I knew that this part will be replaced.
5. I then unscrewed the hub using the hub wrench.
6. I carefully pulled out the inner tub throught the transmission arm.
7. I inverted the tub, placing it on a towel on the floor (I didn't want to crack the lip). Using a flat screwdriver (or a nail puller), I slowly pried out the triple lip seal and bearing (the metal ring in the center of the tub bottom), making sure that I DO NOT DAMAGE THE PLASTIC BOTTOM OF THE TUB where the bearing sits. At this point, I pushed out all the little plastic lint strainers around the bottom of the tub (as per the instruction leaflet) and replaced them with the provided rubber plugs. YOU WILL HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PLUGS ARE FIRMLY IN PLACE.
8. I now washed the auger (you will find residue/softener build up inside), the inner basket, and the outer tub. I also found dirt, sand, grime and mold in these parts and cleaned them thoroughly. This got rid of that smelly odor that my washer had for quite a while now.
9. I checked and saw water on the transmission disc where the lower bearing is. I figured that the lower bearing needed replacement as well.
10. I removed the lower transmission by removing the blots on the motor, and undid the belt from the pulley and gear.
11. While I had the brake pads exposed, I also applied a touch of automotive brake cleaner and brake spray.
11. I replaced the lower bearing with the new part, reattached the transmission ( I replaced the small "o-ring" on the transmission arm) and the motor and belt.
12. I replaced the tub seal bearing following the instructions provided with the new part.
13. I put the tub back, screwed on the new hub using the hub wrench, then CAREFULLY gave a couple of taps with my hammer and falthead screwdriver to tighten it. I placed a new gasket on the hub, screwed on the new seal nut, then repositioned the inner basket on.
14. After re-installing the tub and the inner basket, I put back the plastic ring that holds both tub and basket. I re-installed the auger and the cup.
I ran the machine for a test before I put the housing back in place to check for any leaks. THERE WERE NO MORE LEAKS, AND THE MACHINE SOUNDED AS GREAT AS IT DID WHEN WE PURCHASED IT 5+ YEARS AGO!

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Diagrams and Parts List for this repair

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

GASKET

Part Number: PS2027916

$26.93
In Stock

Upper/Lower Bearing

Part Number: PS2040734

$27.02
In Stock

Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit

Part Number: PS2177502

$103.07
In Stock

Seal and Nut Kit (Now subbed to Seal)

Part Number: PS2347186

$15.22
In Stock