Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult
Time to do repair1- 2 hours
Age of Appliance5 - 10 years
1st, shut off the breaker for the dishwasher.
2nd, opened the door and removed all of the torx screws holding inner door to outer door.
3rd, placed inner door up and held it out of the way (closed inner door through/around latch tab and folded up a piece of paper, threaded it through latch tab hole and placed a small piece of masking tape around the paper to hold door out of the way - this made the entire job easier, because you do not need to hold the door out of the way anymore).
4th, removed broken latch/handle assembly (carefully - it is always a good idea to collect/save broken pieces to piece together the "puzzle" in case you need to improvise. Removing the metal clip attachments is tough, but much easier now that the inner door is secured out of the way. They cannot simply be pulled straight out. You should use a gentle back and forth wiggle motion in a T-shape. Meaning, wiggle back and forth 1-way, and then the other way (perpendicular to the first way) - this should get them separated. Be patient with this procedure - it will work fine and you won't get frustrated.
5th, look at the situation to determine exactly what went wrong/broke specifically (I was extra screwed, because 1/2 of each of the "U" shaped tabs that hold each side of latch assembly in place were broken - as well as the tabs on the latch assembly. These U-shaped tabs were/are actually part of the plastic outer door. Specifically, they are on the inner side of the plastic control panel display. I could have replaced this part too, but I was trying to do as inexpensive a repair as possible.
6th, So - I found 2 nut/bolts in my toolbox (probably 1/8" in diameter - 3/4" in length - I used flat head. Be careful in your selection of bolt length - the least amount sticking out the front of the dishwasher - the better). I drilled 2 holes - in the exact location where these inner door tabs broke off - and entirely through to the outside of the outer door - yes, all the way through. We are talking about drilling through less than 1/4" of plastic - simple. I made sure that I would not be drilling through any lighting display or really important pieces. The holes ended up being situated in plain plastic locations - not interfering with any functions. Be careful in your selection of drill bit size - you want the bolt to fit through the hole obviously, but you don't want the bolt to have too much wiggle room - because it will be functioning as your new tab - that should have as much structural integrity. So, I recommend drilling a hole that is just big enough that you have to use a screwdriver to thread the bolt into the hole.
7th - I connected the clips into the new latch assembly - somewhat easier than separating the old one.
8th - I placed the new latch/handle assembly into its proper location (resting on the 1/2 mounting tabs that remained on the inner door).
9th - I then used a small flat screwdriver to thread the 2 screws in place (yes, screw head on the inside of the door - to function as a tab - the edge of the screw head will hold down on the latch tab ends). I had to tilt the latch assembly forward, to allow just enough clearance to get my small, thin flat head screwdriver in there (on a slight angle, but that's ok). Thread it through until it gently snugs down onto the latch tab.
***You can do better than I did if you want to go the extra mile*** Find a small, thin piece of sheet metal or plastic. Drill a hole just big enough for the bolt threads to slide through. This sheet should be cut to the following specs: a rectangular shape just big enough to span across the tab you made with the bolt - onto the inner door tab that it still not broken (the drilled hole to fit the bolt threads through on one end). It is added structural integrity to even better hold the new latch assembly in place. Think of it as a bridge that spans the tops of the U-tabs.
10th - After screwing the bolts through until just enough to snug down on the latch assem